Raging bulls: why Maga is pushing cow products on to America

The Guardian

7 hours ago

The US health secretary, Robert F Kennedy, claims that beef tallow is a healthier alternative to seed oils (even though the American Heart Association disagrees). Raw milk advocates are currently criticizing Kennedy, who has supported them in the past, to ease restrictions on the sale of their preferred dairy product nationwide. Meanwhile, cows have also infiltrated the ever trendy skincare market, with beef tallow present in moisturizers, lip balm, deodorant and personal lubricant.
Though not every beef tallow evangelist or raw milk aficionado might consider themselves Republican, cows' connection to RFK's 'health' crusade is unavoidable. It appears that cows have won the position of Maga's favorite animal.
It's not exactly a secret that Trump loves cows. Last year, when a child called into Fox & Friends to ask what his favorite farm animal was. 'I'll tell you what I love, I love cows, but if we go with Kamala, you won't have any cows any more,' he said, adding: 'I don't want to ruin this kid's day.' He made the bizarre talking point a part of his campaign stump speeches, telling crowds in North Carolina and Nevada that 'they want to do things like no more cows.' Now that he's in office, cows remain top of mind – or, at least, their byproducts do.
'Woo-woo has become moo-moo,' the Atlantic's Yasmin Tayag wrote this week, in an essay about Americans going 'all-in' on 'cow-based wellness'.
'When it comes to animal products, it seems [that Maga] promotes cows the most,' said Mark Kern, a professor of exercise and nutritional sciences at San Diego State University. 'They don't seem to say the same things for chicken or turkey.'
Pigs could be a close runner-up, as lard, another animal fat, was also used regularly in cooking until the early 20th century – a bygone era Maga loves to romanticize.
It doesn't hurt that cow mania follows the trend of tradwives taking up social media space, extolling the virtues of cooking, cleaning, child-rearing and homesteading. If Trump describes cities such as DC, Los Angeles and New York as fiery bastions of anarchy, then cows represent something entirely different: images of ruddy-cheeked children toting milk pails or Sydney Sweeney in a prairie dress.
Of course, none of this is the fault of cows. 'Beef can be a very healthful food when eaten in moderation,' Kern said. 'I see value in it, but that doesn't mean we should eat it at the expense of seed oils.' The Maha (Make America Healthy Again) crowd's obsession with beef tallow is based on a 'misperception' that it is less refined than seed oils, Kern explained. 'You can't just get beef tallow from a cow,' he said. 'You have to render that fat, which is a refining process, too.'
Though there are no known benefits of consuming beef tallow, some chain restaurants such as Steak 'n Shake and Sweetgreen have switched to using it in the wake of RFK's endorsement.
Bart Hutchins is the chef of Butterworth's, a nouveau French restaurant in DC popular with the Maga cohort. Last month, Hutchins told Axios that his kitchen goes through 500 beef bones a week serving a roasted marrow that is Steve Bannon's 'go-to' order. (Marco Rubio and the Breitbart staff apparently love it, too.)
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Bone marrow contains collagen, a protein that's long been a beauty buzzword associated with reported cosmetic benefits such as skin, hair and nail health. It is a common ingredient in pills and powders that promise youthful skin, though dermatologists say this has not been definitively proven by any studies. That does not stop rich people from loving it. 'If you describe something 'with collagen', it's poised to move for a certain economic class,' Hutchins said.
Candice Ray, a 24-year-old dietician student who splits her time between Canada and Vermont, liked beef tallow before it was taken on as a Maha status symbol. She has slathered it on her face every night for two years, swearing it transformed her rough, bumpy complexion into a clear, clean glow.
'It's done wonders for me,' Ray said. 'My skin just looks more healthy.' To be fair, Ray – an influencer who shares 'nontoxic living' tips to her following of nearly 350,000 on Instagram – adheres to other medically dubious practices such as not washing her face.
You might assume that if you cover your face in beef tallow and go to bed without washing it off, you will end up reeking of barnyard musk. Ray disagrees. 'I find it smells just slightly earthy,' she says.
Ray is not exactly thrilled that Maga has taken up the cause of advancing beef tallow. 'My choice to use it is not political whatsoever,' she said. 'But when I tell people that I use beef tallow, they kind of look at me like, 'Oh, you're a natural-living girly.''