We tried new indulgent tasting menu at one of Scotland's most iconic five-star hotels

Scottish Sun

25-05-2025

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Scroll down to find out what we thought of the new dishes
DISHING IT OUT We tried new indulgent tasting menu at one of Scotland's most iconic five-star hotels
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IT was a roasting hot day in Glasgow, the kind of weather that tempts even the most adventurous spirits to linger in beer gardens, soaking up the rare Scottish sunshine.
Yet something extraordinary beckoned us away from the lure of pints on the pavement and into the cool, sophisticated embrace of Edinburgh's iconic Caledonian Hotel.
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Loch Fyne Crab Raviolo was one of the stunning dishes on offer as part of the tasting menu
Credit: Red Brick Road
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Award-winning chef Mark Harraway has designed a delightful tasting menu for the hotel
Credit: Red Brick Road
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We swapped pavement pints for a touch of class at The Caley (behind)
Credit: Jennifer Jones
Nestled at the west end of Princes Street, the Caledonian—or 'The Caley' as locals affectionately call it—is a symbol of grandeur and luxury in the beating heart of Edinburgh's city centre.
Widely regarded as the grande dame of the capital, the hotel has undergone a multi-million-pound transformation, rebranding as part of Hilton's Curio Collection in June 2024.
While the sun blazed over Glasgow, we set out on the train for Edinburgh to experience The Caley's debut spring tasting menu from award-winning chef Mark Greenaway at The Court.
Joining me was my better half, Neil. Between us, we've developed strong opinions on the good, the bad, and the ugly of tasting menus and small plates.
We liberally apply the rule: 'Do I need a bag of chips after?' as a benchmark for their success.
(We once even stopped at a cheap carvery after dining at a famous—unnamed—tasting menu restaurant. Despite eight tiny courses and hundreds of pounds spent for a special birthday, we left starving. I'm still raging about that one. So, we take the balance of small plates very seriously.)
A Feast for the Senses
From the moment we arrived, The Court's relaxed yet refined atmosphere offered respite from the heat outside.
We received a fantastic welcome from our knowledgeable servers for the evening—Ellis, Caitlin, and Oskar—who talked us through the entire process.
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The stunning dishes are part of a collaboration with chef Mark Harraway
Credit: Red Brick Road
The tasting menu is priced at £65, with wine pairing available for an additional £40.
Compared to the average in the capital, this is an affordable luxury offering hours to linger, enjoy the food, and savour the wines. This was where our journey through a world of taste truly began.
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Inspired by Scotland's abundance of seasonal produce and Chef Mark Greenaway's newest cookbook, Progression, the menu showcases a collection of local, signature flavours and bespoke experiences designed to elevate evenings in Edinburgh.
Straight away, we were served a glass of crisp Laurent-Perrier champagne to accompany the pre-menu snacks.
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There was champagne on arrival - for us lucky ones
Credit: Jennifer Jones
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Mark's Snacks added a touch of whimsy to the offerings
Credit: Jennifer Jones
The first round set the tone for the evening: tart and refreshing beetroot paired with wafer-thin beetroot casing, Bread Tube Duck, and lightly fried crunchy crab.
Neil, the working-class Glaswegian in our duo, couldn't help but think, 'Leave it in the fryer a tad longer,' as he devoured his delicately fried crab. Yet the freshness and delicacy of the dish won him over. Even the playful bark presentation added a touch of whimsy.
Not every dish was meant for everyone, though.
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The tasting menu was perfectly matched with a wine flight
Credit: Jennifer Jones
As someone allergic to shellfish (I know, sob), I could only watch as Neil—our most enthusiastic diner—enjoyed the full works when the first course, Scottish Crab Raviolo, arrived with the fanfare of a smoky cloche.
'Is that caviar?' he asked. Yes, yes it was—and all of this for £65 a head.
I watched on with sheer envy as he savoured the lobster paired with smoked cauliflower custard, lemon pearls, herb butter, and baby coriander. Damn.
Neil's caviar added bursts of flavour to a velvety sauce.
Despite my ailment, I couldn't deny the brilliance of the menu's composition - and the impressive showmanship of the presentation.
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The first course came with a smokey cloche and delicate creamy lobster bisque
Credit: Jennifer Jones
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I was very envious of the crab raviolo
Credit: Jennifer jones
Mark Greenaway's use of local produce shone throughout the menu, as they prepared me a beef tartare paired with tart and vinegary ketchup as my starter alternative.
Wine flights accompanied each course, delicately balanced to complement the dishes without overwhelming the senses—or leaving us overly tipsy.
Cynically, I often feel wine flights are designed to dazzle and drain in equal measure, but here they were perfectly paired, enhancing rather than eclipsing the food.
Without giving away too much of the mystery menu, it was a chance to sample glasses of vino I would never usually try—from a delicious French Chablis to a pale and interesting red grape Pinot Noir, and the bone-dry Bott-Geyl Pinot Gris.
Fresh bread with a sticky-sweet glaze followed—perhaps a touch too sweet for my taste — but warm and comforting nonetheless. The handmade butters were the star performers here.
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A sticky sweet bun served with fresh butters
Credit: Jennifer Jones
The pacing between courses was leisurely, ensuring we were never rushed nor left waiting too long.
Next on the list was a "soup and sandwich'—and it was a far cry from what I'd have at home during my lunch break.
Pea velouté, Paris Brest, blue cheese mousse, and maple gel delivered a spring-like freshness.
The "sandwich" was a mini bagel—adorable and fun—topped with that viral 'everything but the bagel' seasoning that's all over my TikTok.
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The soup and sandwich was fun and interesting
Credit: Jennifer Jones
The meal was broken up by a chilled summer vegetable garden: a savoury squash custard topped with raw vegetables.
This course was more of a miss for me, as I felt myself filling up too much on carb-y vegetables with three courses still to follow.
But the couple beside us were lapping it up as a standalone dish, which is also served on the à la carte menu.
Cod (with lobster for Neil) was the fish course—meaty and filling. The chefs made the effort to include favourable alternatives for my (frankly unfair at this stage) shellfish allergy.
Seasonal samphire, lemon, and quirky bao buns completed the dish.
Can you believe there were still two more courses to go?
We couldn't—there wasn't going to be any plans for Toby Carvery after this one, I tell you.
Eleven-hour slow-roasted pork was next up on the pass.
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Pork Cheek Pie, with blacken fillet and scorched sweetcorn was delicious
Credit: Jennifer Jones
Five wines in, we were treated to an English 'champagne'—except it can't be called that, given the rules.
Apple orchard notes from the fizz mapped perfectly to the toffee apple jus—a surprising yet delightful accompaniment to perfectly cooked pork and mash.
Pork cheek 'pie', blackened fillet, and scorched sweetcorn rounded off the savoury courses.
By the time dessert arrived, we were stuffed in the best possible way. Could there possibly be more?
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We finished the evening with an indulgent chocolate mouse with a glug of port
The milk chocolate mousse, raspberry sorbet, and crispy vanilla wafer—to share, actually—was paired with a port and an espresso.
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The Progression Menu was launched last month
Credit: Supplied
I'm glad to report there were no bags of chips—or carveries—for the train ride home back to Glasgow as we enjoyed that warm summery walk back to Haymarket, full and happy.
If you're looking for a menu for a special occasion and want to dip into a bit of luxury, bookings can be made online at The Court – The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton.