Lost in Kanwar noise, devotion to the divine

Hindustan Times

2 days ago

Let me share three snapshots from the biggest pilgrimage during the monsoon season in North India.
Scene 1: Modinagar, Ghaziabad district: The Kanwar procession stood still with hundreds of devotees clapping and surrounding a woman and her physically challenged husband chanting 'Har Har Mahadev'. The reason? This villager, Asha Devi, was undertaking Kanwar pilgrimage carrying her husband on her back. She believed it would not only cure him of his disability but also fetch him a job.
Scene 2: Lachhiwala in Dehradun: A large contingent of Kanwariyas is resting with boom speakers playing devotional songs inspired by Bollywood music. A large elephant emerges from the neighbouring Rajaji National Park and charges at them. Utter pandemonium ensues. After flipping a tractor trolley the elephant retreats into the jungle. Wildlife experts say high decibel sounds disturbs the sleep pattern of wild animals, making them irritable and aggressive.
Scene 3: Mirzapur: A video of young Kanwariyas in which they are roughing up a soldier has gone viral. The man in uniform isn't giving in. Each time he falls, he gets up to take on his attackers. The video evokes memories of the disturbed areas in Kashmir and the North East.
Tell me which one would you like to witness in your neighbourhood. I guess none! I have nothing against the Kanwar processions. I am a Hindu — by birth and in deeds. I have endured long queues leading to the temple in the freezing cold, pouring rains and oppressive heat. I have walked for miles carrying my young children in my arms so they can take a dip at Triveni (the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati). Even today I feel rejuvenated and complete after undertaking the Panch Kedar journey performing the rudrabhishek. I have no doubt that 99% of the people participating in such a pilgrimage are inspired by deep devotion to the divine.
Unfortunately, miscreants and anti-social elements are able to muscle their way in such journeys of faith targeting passing vehicles and harassing the travellers, sparing not even women and children. They feel no remorse in attacking places of worship of other religions. Reel makers are a class of nuisance in themselves. They desecrate the pious and holy flavour of pilgrimage with flippant and debased behaviour.
They aren't alone in abusing faith, traders and politicians alike treat it like a profitable venture.
The state of Uttar Pradesh will go for village pradhan (headman) elections this year. The probables have gone out of the way to not only sponsor a large number of young men to undertake the Kanwar pilgrimage but also organised langars (community lunches) along the way.
It has resulted in record crowds at Haridwar. The Uttarakhand government says this year 4.5 crore people gathered to procure Ganga water. Last year, the numbers were at 4.14 crore. It's okay to support the kanwariyas but creating inconvenience for others is where it gets tricky.
Spare a thought about the ordeal of those living in almost curfew like situations. Going to school becomes a challenge. Businesses and government offices along the way come to a standstill for a fortnight. Even nights don't offer any respite. Loud music played by kanwariya boom boxes creates intense noise disturbing citizens, pets and wildlife alike.
Residences along the Kanwar pilgrimage routes with elderly people in need of a good night's sleep bear the brunt of this loud and very public display of devotion. Newborns and toddlers are subjected to intense stress. The traffic jams caused by the large movement of people is a veritable nightmare for the hospital goers and those running to meet a deadline. Religion means peace and well being, not cacophony and chaos.
During the past two weeks, I asked many people and found them to be favourably disposed towards the Kanwar pilgrimage. But they were uncomfortable with the growing new trends around this time of the year.
The Supreme Court orders are clear that loud music should stop at 11 pm. But these processions seem above the law of the land. Anyone wanting to lodge a complaint is flummoxed whom to approach as senior police officers in uniform are seen attending and pampering the kanwariyas. Such politicisation of the bureaucracy is dangerous.
The chief minister of Uttar Pradesh, Yogi Adityanath, who has gone the extra mile to make the Kanwar pilgrimage more comfortable and safe, is aware of the deterioration creeping in to the age-old tradition. It's no surprise that he warned miscreants hiding behind the kanwariyas, insisting that everyone's CCTV footage was available. He said those who are trying to malign the Kanwar yatra will be exposed and their posters pasted everywhere.
We should remember that apart from Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand, Kanwar yatras are organised in other parts of the country. But these places don't witness such hooliganism. Not only the Kanwar yatra, many religious processions are organised throughout the country on different occasions round the year. Millions attend them but rarely do we witness such chaos and mess.
I am reminded of France where once I got a chance to witness a religious procession. I saw thousands of people moving quietly in single files. It set a beautiful example that religion and spiritual peace are complementary. There's no place for noise and nuisance. At that time I thought the oldest religion in the world should also reflect maximum discipline. But why is it lacking?
Hinduism and thousands of years of our Hindustaniat (Indian identity) are testimony to the fact that we always deal with our weaknesses and emerge stronger and better. I have firm belief we'll pause, reflect, and recalibrate our approach for restoring the pristine glory of the pilgrimage for present and future generations.
Shashi Shekhar is the editor-in-chief, Hindustan. The views expressed are personal.