The space is hung with Chilean art and rocks brought back from local caves

Time Out

4 days ago

Fitzrovia might feel corporate, but hiding among the polished buildings and offices are a few spots with a bit of an edge. Mareida is the latest, an elegant fine dining restaurant serving up elevated Chilean cuisine from a buzzy open kitchen. You can feel the passion for the restaurant's vision from every corner; the space is hung with Chilean art and there are even rocks brought back from local caves. The vibe is slick and trendy, and we dine alongside good-looking couples and a large corporate crew.
Our first dish was also our best; mussels in charcoal shells on a bed of fennel sand, which you sprinkle into each shell before eating. They are a lovely, textured bite, made perfect by a few dabs of warmly spiced hot sauce which has a clean, fresh, and tongue-prickling heat. Cocktails are another delight, many of them featuring Chile's national spirit pisco, including the light Mareida sour and bright-pink and intensely grapefruity Araucaria spritz, topped with a tiny tomato.
We try all three empanadas - the mushroom with goat cheese, the beef and the seafood. The beef is the stand-out, rich and comforting (warning: it has a tiny, whole boiled egg inside it), but any of them are worth trying. We're recommended the wagyu slider, which is a fun little thing but doesn't taste like an awful lot; just thin-cut beef, with a touch of sweetness from the brioche and the brown butter. After a generous dash of that lovely hot sauce, it's much better, but I prefer the empanadas.
There are a number of mains on offer, from raviolo with morels, to conger eel with fish broth, but the dish that will no doubt cause a stir is the pastel de choclo. A whopping great wooden bowl filled with a fascinating combo of ever-so-slightly runny poached eggs, tender lamb shoulder and raisins. The lamb is excellent but as a whole it is, in a word, wet. The crab cake gratin is cheesy and delicious, but hard to get through as a main for one. It would be a perfect starter, served with a little toast or crackers for dipping. The lomo a lo pobre is a thing of beauty - a whopping great steak with tiny little Chipsticks-style chips, caramelised onions and another runny poached egg. The steak is excellent, and perfectly cooked, but everything could use a huge hit of salt.
For pudding, we tried the hojarasca, which arrives like an elevated trifle - layers of dulce de leche, vanilla and raspberry. The membrillo comes in a beautiful chocolate ball, ready to be smashed into with a spoon, and perfect hazelnut ice cream. Along with its starters, dessert is where Mareida shines.