Food Picks: Ce Soir restaurant's new menu showcases its evolving modern Asian direction
(Clockwise from left) Claypot rice made with five grains paired with tender South African abalone, Iberico pork, and wintermelon soup with zuwaigani (Japanese snow crab). ST PHOTOS: EUNICE QUEK
SINGAPORE – It may have started out as a modern European restaurant in 2022, but, under the wing of Perak-born Singaporean chef Seth Lai, 31, since October 2023, Ce Soir has shifted in a more contemporary Asian direction.
And that is not a bad thing.
Because who knew that the winner of Singapore's Michelin Guide Young Chef Award 2024 can brew a solid wintermelon soup with zuwaigani (Japanese snow crab) – worthy to be on any good Chinese restaurant's menu?
I am also pleasantly surprised by his claypot rice made with five grains – spelt, barley, corn, and red and brown rice – enhanced with a rich lobster stock and sakura ebi. It is paired with tender South African abalone.
And while it may be quite commonplace now to get lovely rolls at an upscale establishment, Ce Soir's seaweed bread has a wonderfully crisp crust.
The three dishes are part of the $228++ seven-course dinner menu, which includes a meat main of Iberico pork.
There is also a $168++ five-course dinner and $68++ three-course lunch.
Both dinner courses start with a trio of snacks – buri, tomato and sour plum gel; uni and soursop tart; and foie gras sandwiched between apricot wafers on a walnut biscuit.
From the petit four finale, I prefer the kaya-misu – kaya mascarpone on a coffee tart shell.
Not all elements work. I am not too fond of the foie gras sauce in the lobster dish and do not quite get the almond cookie-inspired petit four.
But I appreciate chef Lai trying to do more – who else will combine uni and soursop and make it work?
I hope he continues to evolve in his culinary journey and draw on his personal stories, which truly make his dishes shine.
Where: 01- 03, 5B Portsdown Road
MRT: one-north
Open: Noon to 3.30pm (Thursdays to Sundays), 6.30 to 11pm (Wednesdays to Sundays); closed on Mondays and Tuesdays
Tel: WhatsApp 9177-9993
Info: cesoir.com.sg
Check out ST's Food Guide for the latest foodie recommendations in Singapore.
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