Now is the perfect time to discover India's most underrated city
For many, the obvious place to start is the Golden Triangle, a route encompassing popular sites in the northern states of Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh – the ancient forts of Jaipur, the chaotic streets of Delhi, and the enduringly romantic Taj Mahal.
But India's southern states are now luring travellers who also want to experience the region's more cosmopolitan charms, and no city offers that more than Bengaluru, the capital of Karnataka, formerly known by its colonial name Bangalore.
Today, it's the hub of the nation's booming tech and start-up sector leading many to dub it 'India's Silicon Valley'. But scratch beneath the surface and you'll discover a richly layered metropolis full of soul and ancient traditions.
Why go now?
India has never been more popular. Global travel network Virtuoso named it as one of the destinations on the rise for 2025. While Mumbai and Delhi may get all the attention, it's now time for India's India's fifth-largest settlement to shine. Virgin Atlantic recently announced new direct flights from London Heathrow, making it easier than ever to start exploring the Garden City, as it is known due to its many parks and open spaces.
What to do
While there are no major bucket-list sites, Bengaluru can definitely compete when it comes to culture. Spend a morning exploring the vibrant and head-spinning Krishnarajendra market, where stalls sell everything from spices and flowers to copperware and fresh produce.
The ruins of the 18th-century city fort, heavily damaged by British forces, is a good place to soak up history, along with the 17th-century Kote Venkataramana temple, dedicated to the Hindu god Venkateshwara.
India is notoriously chaotic – all part of the country's charm – but Bengaluru has a good balance of lively and quiet spaces. Retreat to the tranquillity of Cubbon Park, an inner city patch of paradise where couples and families enjoy walks and picnics. Elsewhere, the Lalbagh Botanical Garden – 98 blissful hectares first planted in 1760 – is a horticultural masterpiece.
Where to stay
Centred around beautifully landscaped gardens and modelled on the royal residence of nearby Mysore (or Mysuru), the pink-hued Leela Palace is a 357-room property fit for a maharaja – and a former prime minister (Rishi Sunak tied the knot here to local girl Akshata Murty in 2009).
The grand property features 20ft sandstone pillars, handwoven carpets, intricate frescoes and twinkling crystal chandeliers. Every morning, local musicians performing in the lobby create a heavenly start to the day, with flutes and traditional drums.
Beyond the opulence and grandeur, it's still possible to seek out cosy, subdued spots. Take a stroll through the gardens, wander into the restaurant kitchens, and in a quiet corner you'll find the secret entrance to ZLB23, the Kyoto-styled speakeasy that was recently named the best bar in India.
A less glitzy but equally impressive hotel option is the 117-room Taj West End, one of the oldest manor houses in India, founded in 1887. Gothic arches and red-tiled roofs decorate the building set in grounds dotted with trees more than 150 years old.
Secret spot
One of the city's best-loved local hangouts is Airlines Hotel which, confusingly, isn't a hotel and has nothing to do with flying. This charming al fresco dining spot on Madras Bank Road has been serving cheap and cheerful traditional meals for decades and is particularly well-known for its breakfasts. Grab one of the metal tables under the 90-year-old banyan tree and feast on chana bhature (fried bread filled with chick peas) accompanied by milky masala chai.
How to do it
Virgin Atlantic flies from London Heathrow to Bengaluru from £494 return. Doubles at the Leela Palace Bengaluru start from £214 per night. Doubles at the Taj West End start from £150 per night.
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