Risking death for a special ceviche in Peru
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Condé Nast Traveler
a day ago
- Condé Nast Traveler
In Peru's Andes, the Centuries-Old Art of the Retablo Captures a Changing Country
Andean cultures have long found ways of telling stories through craft—by weaving tales into thick textiles, painting sagas onto ceramics, or chiseling mythology into gourds. But retablos have reached a level of ubiquity in Peru, and you'll spot them in homes throughout the country; they also burst out of tourist shops everywhere from Lima to Cusco, and sit in museum collections well beyond the country's borders. 'Each [retablo] reflects a piece of Peruvian identity—whether it's a festival, a protest, or a quiet moment in a mountain village, they hold our stories,' says Nicario Jimenez Quispe, a third-generation retablo maker from Alcamenca, a village in the region of Ayacucho from which retablos originated. 'They show who we are, where we come from, and what we believe.' As visually impressive (or simply delightful) as they may be, retablos also chart the evolution of a land through colonization, political turmoil, internal displacement, and diaspora, in a craft molded by those at the forefront of each. This is no art form preserved in amber, and yet the ways in which retablos have continually evolved over the past 500 years have ensured their existence. 'The retablo is the most beautiful example of cultural survival,' says John Alfredo Davies Benavides. The hand-shaped figures in a retablo are traditionally made from a paste of potato starch and minerals like gypsum or lime. Brian Tietz Aniline dyes have been historically used to decorate retablos, though materials today vary. Brian Tietz Benavides is a traditional arts collector based in Lima, who was raised in the presence of retablo maestro Joaquin Lopez Antay (1897-1981), the 1975 Peruvian National Culture Prize winner who is credited with founding today's form of the retablo, and Antay's pupil, Jesus Urbano Rojas (1924-2014). Benavides can trace the roots of retablos back to pre-Catholic Huamanga, now known as the region of Ayacucho, where sculptores would travel between the high and low lands of the area, making items on commission for a rural clientele—common requests included stone figurines of pagan deities, and wooden boxes to hold them, to be used in rituals for the fertility and protection of livestock, including offerings to Pachamama (mother earth). The retablo is the most beautiful example of cultural survival. John Alfredo Davies Benavides In the post-contact 1620s, when the Spanish attempted to eradicate these pagan customs and talismans in the push for Catholicism, craftspeople simply created 'a language' in which they substituted various saints in for their deities. For example, Saint Mark and Saint Luke became a stand-in for the duality of Quechua god Illapa (known for both protecting and punishing, depending on how you treated the land) effectively preserving the belief system under a façade that aligned with the Spaniards' religious art. 'It's an artistic form of mestizaje, in which rural Andean beliefs and Catholicism mix,' says Diego Lopez, who wrote a 2024 paper on the work of Antay for the Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú.
Fox News
2 days ago
- Fox News
Utility crews unearth two 1,000-year-old tombs beneath city street in single day: 'Feels so exciting'
Utility workers unearthed two pre-Incan tombs during a routine day on the job in Peru – one of many archaeological discoveries in the country this year. The workers, employed by the energy company Cálidda, found the burials in Lima just recently. The employees have been digging trenches in the city as part of an ongoing underground gas network project. Both tombs belong to the pre-Incan Chancay culture, which existed in Peru from 1000 to 1470 A.D. The Inca Empire spanned from roughly 1400 to 1533 A.D., with Spanish colonization beginning soon after. The two tombs were remarkably different. One was empty, while the other held a 1,000-year-old skeleton. Images show excavators working to remove the remains from the soil. The tomb also contained four clay vessels and three "pumpkin shell artifacts," according to The Associated Press (AP). "Lima is unique among Latin American capitals, in that various archaeological finds are unearthed during nearly every civil project." The male skeleton was found in a torn cloth bundle in a sitting position. Its legs were against its chest. Archaeologist José Aliaga told the AP the vessels contained iconography, along with some remaining black, white and red colors. "[It] allow[s] us to establish a connection with the pre-Incan Chancay culture," the archaeologist said. He added, "Lima is unique among Latin American capitals, in that various archaeological finds are unearthed during nearly every civil project." Local mother Flor Prieto walked through the area with her 7-year-old daughter during the excavation. She told the AP she'd assumed the area had always been uninhabited. "I always thought they were paths where no one had lived," Prieto observed. "But now I know that people older than the Incas have lived there … It feels so exciting." This is far from the first skeleton that Cálidda has come across. Over the past 20 years, the company has made more than 2,200 archaeological discoveries. Earlier in June, excavators in Lima unearthed a millennia-old preserved female mummy during the same utility project. The skeleton, which still retained a small amount of brown hair, was found just 20 inches below the ground.
CNN
06-08-2025
- CNN
Three brothers, one boat, a potential world record and a 9,000-mile mission for clean water
Water availabilityFacebookTweetLink Follow Most people would be somewhat alarmed at the prospect of spending over 100 days alone with their siblings, let alone if they had to do so on a cramped boat in the middle of the ocean. But three Scottish brothers think their familial bond is pivotal in their mission to complete the fastest-ever unsupported three-man row across the Pacific Ocean. The trio of Ewan, Jamie, and Lachlan Maclean are now in the final stretch of their 9,000-mile journey across the Pacific, made in pursuit of both a world record and the goal of raising £1m to fund clean water projects in Madagascar. In 2020, the brothers looked for a way to support charities fighting for clean drinking water around the world and thought of the potential impact of undertaking a big physical challenge. As such, the Macleans decided to row the Atlantic Ocean, setting a record in the process by crossing in just 35 days. Once back on dry land, they realized their mission for clean water was not over and quickly decided that the best way to promote the cause was to go one step further and 'take on the biggest body of water on the planet,' they recalled to CNN Sports on their 101st day at sea. They set out from Peru's capital, Lima, on April 13 with the initial goal of reaching Sydney, Australia, by August 2. Their family-run, non-profit organization, The Maclean Foundation, works to secure clean water for communities through pairing up with partner organizations in Madagascar to build boreholes. The Pacific challenge aims to raise awareness and funding to build boreholes for the whole of the Ambohimanarina municipality in Madagascar, where currently only 14% of the population has access to safe, clean drinking water. The aim for the brothers is to provide clean water for over 40,000 people. 'We want to have a positive impact on other people, that is ultimately what this journey is about,' Ewan, 33, said. 'Seeing the donations come in and the messages of support have really helped us through some pretty bleak times.' The Macleans' boat, Emily-Rose – named in tribute to their unborn sister – was co-designed by the brothers and the Ocean Rowing Company and built using Formula One technology. Constructed entirely of carbon fiber, the vessel weighs just 280 kg (about 617 pounds) unladen, a stark contrast to the 2,200-pound boat they previously used to cross the Atlantic. The team used a 3D printer to create customized components and, thanks to its ultra-lightweight build, the boat can ride waves like a surfboard. The reduced weight has also allowed the Macleans to carry 150 days-worth of food and supplies, enabling them to complete the challenge without stopping to re-stock. The brothers spent two years training for the challenge, undergoing immense mental and physical preparation, including logistical feats such as home cooking and dehydrating over 1,000 meals. 'I had sleepless nights leading up to us departing because I was convinced that we maybe got the packaging wrong or hadn't done the process right,' Jamie, 31, admitted. One key aspect was working with Chloe Lanthier, an elite multi-sport athlete and human physiology scientist for the NASA space program – she has formerly worked with tennis star, Rafael Nadal – 'She designed the whole program to help us stay physically fit but also with a lot of mental exercises,' the brothers said. 'We spent a lot of time writing down what our greatest fears were; one of those was if someone went overboard,' they added. That fear became a reality two weeks ago, when 40mph winds and what the brothers described as 20-foot waves swept Lachlan, 27, overboard. 'Everything was thrown everywhere. I thought we were going over,' Ewan recounted. The youngest Maclean was switching shifts with Ewan during the night when he was suddenly thrown overboard and found himself being dragged behind the boat. He felt totally 'at the mercy of the sea,' before his eldest brother was able to pull him back onboard thanks to a safety line he was attached to. 'We had three knockdowns (when the boat turns approximately 90 degrees on its side and then re-balances),' Jamie said, adding that the terrifying incident was 'a bit of an awakening.' 'Thankfully, we didn't roll it all the way over.' With support from an active shore-based team and a social media posting routine, the brothers have also become something of a viral sensation. Their extraordinary journey has captured the attention of celebrities, including actors Mark Wahlberg and Ewan McGregor, as well as Flea, bassist and co-founder of the Red Hot Chili Peppers. 'This is real man sh*t you guys are doing,' Wahlberg told the brothers during a video call. 'It is awe inspiring.' The actor has been tracking their journey closely, checking in with them twice and even suggesting that the Hemsworth brothers – actors Chris, Liam and Luke – should portray the trio in a film adaptation of their journey. McGregor, 54, has also expressed strong support, promising to join the brothers for a row once they return home to Scotland. Many of these conversations have been uploaded onto their podcast, 'Dinner with the Macleans.' With the help of their on-shore team, replicas of the onboard meals are sent to celebrity guests, who then join the brothers on a video call for humorous and, at times profound, conversations. When asked about the idea behind the podcast, the brothers joked: 'We are somewhat like a think-tank without a tank out here – there are a lot of thoughts but no container.' Their momentum continues to grow. The Macleans' Instagram account, filled with videos and vlogs documenting life at sea, has now surpassed 133,000 followers. Recently, the brothers fulfilled a teenage dream by live-streaming Jamie's bagpipe performance from the boat for the prominent rock band, the All-American Rejects, during their headline act at Fandom's Comic-Con party. When asked about the public recognition, Jamie told CNN Sports: 'I can't really put it into words. It really helps us feel that what we're doing out here has meaning.' For the Macleans, a close relationship has become one of their most valuable assets in facing the challenge. 'We are able to speak very directly to one another,' Jamie said. 'Good communication has been key to this journey.' Now over the 100-day mark, the brothers have found this chapter of their voyage the most testing. After getting caught in a cyclone in early July, rapidly shifting weather systems have continued to push them further north from their planned course. The weather has brought large waves and heavy rain, meaning that the team has had to deal with consistent setbacks. On July 27, the brothers posted an emotional video that offered a glimpse into the intense mental strain they have faced during this final stretch. Jamie tearfully said on camera that 'the last couple weeks have been really hard, but the last few days have been horrible.' Their official ship's logs of that day recounted the challenging nature of the weather they were coming up against. 'We always knew that this part of the crossing would be the most challenging,' the log reads. In describing a relentless easterly wind, Jamie wrote, 'no matter how hard I try, every attempt to push west, or south, or even north, is in vain.' The team was eventually forced to deploy a para-anchor and accept the adverse weather. 'The whole journey is a test of endurance, but it is just so uncomfortable. Every aspect of every waking and sleeping moment is there to challenge you,' Jamie said. Despite the extreme challenges, the brothers have been able to stay positive, often finding moments of joy in the harshest of times. 'It is not all grim,' Jamie noted. 'There are just utterly magical moments out here.' 'We've seen remarkably so few other forms of human life,' he said, noting that they have only seen five planes and a handful of boats since setting off from Peru. 'It is really just us and nature, and the vast expanse of the Pacific surrounding us.' With roughly 1,000 nautical miles left, the team is pushing toward Sydney, hoping to reunite with friends and family before September. These last miles will be easier because they are brothers, the Macleans told CNN Sports. All three are fully aligned to the larger mission at hand and in day-to-day decision-making. 'Trying to row across this ocean and raise one million pounds (about $1.33 million) to provide 40,000 people with water. That's just that's so important to all three of us. And we are all together on that – it makes it much easier,' Ewan said.
