Catch your own brekkie and watch the sheepdogs work: this is how to visit the island of Ireland

The Guardian

02-05-2025

Imagine paddling a kayak on the Atlantic, while gazing up at the highest sea cliffs in Europe. Or heading out on a fishing boat just as the sun rises, before eating your catch for breakfast. Or spending the evening hopping between cosy pubs filled with the refrains of traditional music, as turf smoulders in the fireplace. That's just what you can expect from an adventure on the coast of the island of Ireland.
All along the shoreline, there are places where you can immerse yourself in culture, explore awe-inspiring landscapes and experience ancient traditions. There are two iconic pathways that weave around the edge of the island – the Causeway Coastal Route stretches from Belfast all along Northern Ireland's shoreline to Derry~Londonderry, which is right by the start of the Wild Atlantic Way, the epic coastal road that snakes down the west coast of Ireland. Combine the two in one trip, and you're in for the ultimate adventure.
Music is at the heart of the local cuture, and you can soak up this ancient artform on the Ballycastle Traditional Music Trail. In this charming village on the Causeway coast, traditional musicians lead you between classic old pubs, where you'll listen to the melodies of uilleann pipes and tin whistles, and watch the art of Sean-nós (old-style) dancing. And the backdrops are just as enchanting as the music, with wood-panelled walls, shelves filled with Irish whiskies and stone floors worn down from centuries of toe tapping.
As you wander between the various venues, the scent of the sea is never too far away. Head to the harbour and you'll see fishing boats lined up in the turquoise water, ready to set off each morning. There's a strong fishing culture all along the shore of Northern Ireland and Ireland, with exceptional seafood found in their waters – and the best way to experience it is to head out on a fishing trip.
On a sunrise 'catch your breakfast tour' with Causeway Boats, you'll set off from Portrush Harbour at 7am, heading out on the Atlantic, with the chance to see the sun rise over Dunluce Castle. You'll be provided with rods, tackle and bait – and the experienced crew can coax beginners. But these waters aren't just for fishing – depending on the season, you might spot majestic basking sharks, pods of dolphins or even the odd humpback whale swimming by the boat.
Having caught, filleted and learned about the day's catch, the bounty is whisked away to the chef's kitchen back at shore and whipped up into a breakfast with local produce. It couldn't be any fresher, or more seasonal, if it tried.
Dunluce Castle, County Antrim. Photograph: Stocksy United
And it's not just seafood that's plentiful along this stretch of shoreline – the coastal scenery is as epic as you could hope for. When you're progressing along the Causeway coast, it's well worth stopping at Glenarm Castle. As well as beautiful gardens to explore, you have plenty of options to refuel, from wood-fired pizzas to ice-cream. Should you have dreams of building a small castle of your own, you could always book yourself on to a class at the stonemasonry school. Just along the coast from Portrush, Dunluce Castle stands on the rugged cliffs above Whiterocks beach, a sheer drop from the headland to the sand below. Once a grand castle dating back to the 16th century, the ruins that remain are hauntingly dramatic, the weathered stonework blending into the rock of the cliffs, seeming as if it's emerging straight from the earth itself.
Around the old arched window frames and gigantic empty fireplaces, tiny wildflowers grow between the cracks, little bursts of yellow and blue that sway in the sea breeze as the waves batter the beach hundreds of feet below. And when the sun sets, the bones of the old castle are silhouetted against the sky, the jagged edges sinking into the darkness.
Benbulben mountain, County Sligo. Photograph: Conor Doherty/Sligo Tourism
Farther west on the Wild Atlantic Way, there's another clifftop dwelling equally as striking. While Classiebawn Castle is fully intact, its silhouette is just as beguiling, with the turrets and towers standing before the distinctive ridges and flat top of Benbulben mountain, right on the shore at Mullaghmore.
Sea kayaking along the Slieve League cliffs, County Donegal. Photograph: Gareth McCormack
It's not the only source of theatrics on this coastline. The waves that roll in off Mullaghmore Head are renowned with big-wave surfers, who flock to this tiny beach from all over the world to catch some of the greatest sets on the planet. It's here that the biggest wave was surfed in Ireland (estimated to be 18 metres high), and if you nab a good spot on the beach, you can watch as the experts ride perfect barrel waves.
While those waves definitely aren't for beginners, there are plenty of options for would-be surfers who want to 'hang 10' for the first time, be it along the Sligo coast or up in Donegal, the northernmost county on the island. You can also try your hand at stand up paddleboarding, or see one of Ireland's most striking sights, Sliabh Liag (Slieve League), from a kayak.
These sea cliffs, the highest of their kind in Europe, are impressive when seen from the lookout points along the grassy clifftops, but to really get a sense of their scale you need to see them from below. Head out on a sea kayaking expedition and you'll paddle past sea stacks and rocky arches, until you reach the sloping magnitude of the cliffs themselves, streaked with waterfalls that surge for hundreds of feet.
The coastline is peppered with sights like this, places of striking natural beauty that embody the wonders of the island of Ireland. But there are also sights that tie into the cultural history of the land, where you can get a glimpse into the traditions that have taken place for centuries. In the village of Streedagh, you can step back in time to watch the Atlantic Sheepdogs at work, where border collies demonstrate their herding abilities under the watchful eye of sheep farmers, the flock moving as one like a murmuration.
When you've seen the work of the dogs, why not appreciate the efforts of the sheep, with a trip to see the end-product – Donegal tweed? Studio Donegal is one place to witness what goes into this artisanal hand-woven cloth, from warping and winding the weft yarn or 'pirn', all the way through to garment making. Should you want to invest in a piece of history, there are ponchos, throws and scarves to purchase.
Centuries-old traditions, whether taking place on beguiling landscapes where the fields meet the sea or in traditional places of manufacture, make you realise what's so magical about the island of Ireland.
Discover more at Ireland.com