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The Guardian
02-05-2025
- The Guardian
Dopamine drive: the road trip to happiness lies along the adventure-filled coast of Ireland
A classic road trip can deliver all the ingredients for the ultimate holiday: freedom, adventure and unlimited carpe diem delights. However, combine two epic routes together – the Causeway Coastal Route in Northern Ireland with Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way – and you'll double up on unique attractions, incredible foodie stops and the most soul-soothing of landscapes. In fact, it's little wonder that driving the highlights of these routes, from basalt cliffs to seaside saunas and from secret beaches to a legendary city, can have long-lasting wellness benefits too. 'An open-road holiday adventure can have immense mental health benefits,' says Donegal-based psychotherapist and mental wellness expert Roxane Mullen. 'That sense of anticipation when road tripping, getting in touch with nature, and broadening your perspective through new experiences, are all proven ways of boosting mood and enhancing emotional healing and I think the Causeway Coastal Route and Wild Atlantic Way are the perfect settings to do just that.' So what are you waiting for? Here is our highlight by highlight road-trip guide featuring my top recommendations to eat, stay and play along the way. The Gobbins cliff path, County Antrim. Photograph: Dillon Osborne You may have plenty of miles of road ahead of you, but this road trip takes legendary status at the official starting point of the Causeway Coastal Route in Carrickfergus, home to a stunning 12th-century Norman castle. Beyond it, your journey continues north through scenic coastline flanked by the lush Glens of Antrim, where the romantic village of Cushendun and the spectacular Torr Head make for Instagram-perfect photo stops. Between the mainland and Scotland, keep an eye out for Rathlin Island, the island of Ireland's northernmost inhabited offshoot, which makes for a colourful excursion; not least as it's home to no less than three lighthouses (one of which is upside down!) plus a lively puffin colony. Back in the friendly town of Ballycastle, the Ballycastle Traditional Music Trail takes you through the best local watering holes, while guided by talented musicians. The cliffs above the Giant's Causeway, County Antrim (top). Photograph: Kyle Brickley; Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, County Antrim (below). Photograph: Rob Durston/Tourism Northern Ireland Where to stay: a self-catering stay at Blackhead Lighthouse near Carrickfergus is a coastal dream, while there's no more characterful break along the coast than the Bushmills Inn – it's one of the oldest hotels around, having been a coaching inn as far back as the 1600s. Must-see and do: to see the Gobbins cliff walk from a different perspective, try a stand-up paddleboarding trip with Islandmagee SUP. Crossing the one-of-a-kind Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge takes your road trip to new heights. The Causeway Coastal Route is dotted with star attractions, but this leg of the tour features the legendary blockbuster that is the Giant's Causeway. Tip? Arriving at the Unesco world heritage site for sunrise (or indeed sunset) when its hexagonal basalt columns shimmer by the surf and light, is truly mesmerising. Back on the road, chase the sun north-west and you'll find a coast gilded by the shores of Portrush, Portstewart and Benone beaches, all of which make enticing pitstops. In the latter, Hotbox is an authentic Finnish sauna and soothing spot to refresh after a wild Atlantic plunge. It has the added bonus of having the iconic Mussenden Temple as a backdrop and you can admire it with a walk along the seven-mile stretch of beach. Next up, the ever-vibrant city of Derry~Londonderry brings some urban flavour to your road trip. The history-steeped town holds the distinction of being the island of Ireland's only fully walled city – the 1.5 km of walls were a 17th century addition to protect the inhabitants and you can get a good idea of the original town from the walkway. A guided tour with Martin McCrossan City Walking Tours offers a friendly and fascinating insight into the city's storied past and dynamic present. Bearings gathered, uncover attractions from the Museum of Free Derry to The Derry Girls Experience at the Tower Museum – a must-visit for lovers of the iconic series (or simply 90s nostalgia!). Hotbox on Benone beach, County Londonderry. Photograph: Dillon Osborne Where to stay: Derry~Londonderry's newest hotel and spa, the Ebrington, makes for an elegant city base, while Cromore Retreat's luxury bubble dome suites allow you to sleep under the stars. Where to eat and drink: the Walled City Brewery is a happening spot to eat and drink in Derry~Londonderry, while Harry's Shack at Portstewart Strand is a vibe all of its own for seafood and sundowners. Must-see and do: pick up locally made souvenirs at the Craft Village, tucked within the city's old town. Along the Causeway coast, Dunluce Castle makes for a phenomenal photo-stop. The northern lights. Photograph: Tourism Ireland With Derry~Londonderry and the Causeway Coastal Route in your rearview, steer onwards to County Donegal where you'll join the epic Wild Atlantic Way for the next stage of your adventure. The island's profusion of peninsulas make for enticing touring shoot-offs. There's Fanad, famed for its beautiful lighthouse, and Malin Head on Inishowen, Ireland's most northerly point, where you can bask in long summer nights or luck out with a display of northern lights activity. To ramp up the great escape even more, immerse yourself in island life with a visit to Arranmore, Tory or Gola islands or to get active, kayak along their crystal clear coasts – keep an eye out for basking sharks that regularly fish in the waters. Continuing south, take a timeout at the spectacular Glenveagh national park, an unbridled hikers' paradise, where you ramble through valley routes as golden eagles soar above you. Dolphins at Malin Head, County Donegal (top); Wild Alpaca Way, County Donegal (below) offers hiking outings. Photographs: Gareth Wray Where to stay: Lough Mardal's glamping yurts make a colourful base in nature, while Harvey's Point hotel at Lough Eske is a hallmark in Irish hospitality. Where to eat and drink: tuck into seafood and chowder to wow at Nancy's Barn in Ballyliffin, while Olde Glen Bar & Restaurant is a delicious, Michelin Guide gem. Must-see and do: meet bears and wolves at Wild Ireland; a refuge for some of Ireland's former native species, while for a more domesticated brush with nature, Wild Alpaca Way offers hiking outings, where you'll be accompanied by your own biddable alpaca. Surfing at Strandhill beach, County Sligo. Photograph: Brian Morrison County Donegal is renowned for its dramatic landscapes – and seascapes – and they don't get more awesome than at Sliabh Liag (Slieve League), one of Europe's highest sea cliffs which, at a staggering 600 metres, is an epic spot to catch – or lose – your breath at. Inhale the epic scenes from the magnificent viewing platform or get up close with their towering face aboard Sliabh Liag Boat Tours. Continue south to neighbouring Leitrim; and while the county may be home to Ireland's shortest coastline (not quite 2.4 miles!) that belies a trove of undiscovered treasures, not least Glencar waterfall, which you'll find cascading over a backdrop of lush native rainforest with a cinematic magic. Your Wild Atlantic Way journey finally brings you to County Sligo – meaning place of shells in Irish, as well as being 'Yeats country' on account of the stunning landscapes that so inspired the poet – which makes an invigorating base to crescendo any coastal road trip. As Ireland's unofficial surfing capital, Sligo's beaches are the perfect setting to unleash your adventurous side and Strandhill is home of the National Surf Centre and its three surf schools, which offer lessons for all levels. Reward yourself and recoup your energy at Hooked in Sligo Town. It's nothing to do with fishing – the restaurant name comes from the hooks in a traditional butcher's shop. That said, as well as fine meats, locally caught seafood is on the menu and it does a good line in breakfast and brunch. Sliabh Liag cliffs, County Donegal, from the water. Photograph: Tristan Hutchinson/Failte Ireland Where to stay: the Address in Sligo town makes an excellent-value boutique base; in Donegal, Lough Eske Castle makes a fairytale luxury escape. Where to eat and drink: taste the best of local produce with Sligo Food Trail or check out some Donegal whiskey at Crolly Distillery. Must-see and do: step back in time at Glencolmcille folk village, if you're brave, climb sea stacks, or soak in the sweeping panoramas at Mullaghmore Head. Discover more at
The Guardian
02-05-2025
- The Guardian
Catch your own brekkie and watch the sheepdogs work: this is how to visit the island of Ireland
Imagine paddling a kayak on the Atlantic, while gazing up at the highest sea cliffs in Europe. Or heading out on a fishing boat just as the sun rises, before eating your catch for breakfast. Or spending the evening hopping between cosy pubs filled with the refrains of traditional music, as turf smoulders in the fireplace. That's just what you can expect from an adventure on the coast of the island of Ireland. All along the shoreline, there are places where you can immerse yourself in culture, explore awe-inspiring landscapes and experience ancient traditions. There are two iconic pathways that weave around the edge of the island – the Causeway Coastal Route stretches from Belfast all along Northern Ireland's shoreline to Derry~Londonderry, which is right by the start of the Wild Atlantic Way, the epic coastal road that snakes down the west coast of Ireland. Combine the two in one trip, and you're in for the ultimate adventure. Music is at the heart of the local cuture, and you can soak up this ancient artform on the Ballycastle Traditional Music Trail. In this charming village on the Causeway coast, traditional musicians lead you between classic old pubs, where you'll listen to the melodies of uilleann pipes and tin whistles, and watch the art of Sean-nós (old-style) dancing. And the backdrops are just as enchanting as the music, with wood-panelled walls, shelves filled with Irish whiskies and stone floors worn down from centuries of toe tapping. As you wander between the various venues, the scent of the sea is never too far away. Head to the harbour and you'll see fishing boats lined up in the turquoise water, ready to set off each morning. There's a strong fishing culture all along the shore of Northern Ireland and Ireland, with exceptional seafood found in their waters – and the best way to experience it is to head out on a fishing trip. On a sunrise 'catch your breakfast tour' with Causeway Boats, you'll set off from Portrush Harbour at 7am, heading out on the Atlantic, with the chance to see the sun rise over Dunluce Castle. You'll be provided with rods, tackle and bait – and the experienced crew can coax beginners. But these waters aren't just for fishing – depending on the season, you might spot majestic basking sharks, pods of dolphins or even the odd humpback whale swimming by the boat. Having caught, filleted and learned about the day's catch, the bounty is whisked away to the chef's kitchen back at shore and whipped up into a breakfast with local produce. It couldn't be any fresher, or more seasonal, if it tried. Dunluce Castle, County Antrim. Photograph: Stocksy United And it's not just seafood that's plentiful along this stretch of shoreline – the coastal scenery is as epic as you could hope for. When you're progressing along the Causeway coast, it's well worth stopping at Glenarm Castle. As well as beautiful gardens to explore, you have plenty of options to refuel, from wood-fired pizzas to ice-cream. Should you have dreams of building a small castle of your own, you could always book yourself on to a class at the stonemasonry school. Just along the coast from Portrush, Dunluce Castle stands on the rugged cliffs above Whiterocks beach, a sheer drop from the headland to the sand below. Once a grand castle dating back to the 16th century, the ruins that remain are hauntingly dramatic, the weathered stonework blending into the rock of the cliffs, seeming as if it's emerging straight from the earth itself. Around the old arched window frames and gigantic empty fireplaces, tiny wildflowers grow between the cracks, little bursts of yellow and blue that sway in the sea breeze as the waves batter the beach hundreds of feet below. And when the sun sets, the bones of the old castle are silhouetted against the sky, the jagged edges sinking into the darkness. Benbulben mountain, County Sligo. Photograph: Conor Doherty/Sligo Tourism Farther west on the Wild Atlantic Way, there's another clifftop dwelling equally as striking. While Classiebawn Castle is fully intact, its silhouette is just as beguiling, with the turrets and towers standing before the distinctive ridges and flat top of Benbulben mountain, right on the shore at Mullaghmore. Sea kayaking along the Slieve League cliffs, County Donegal. Photograph: Gareth McCormack It's not the only source of theatrics on this coastline. The waves that roll in off Mullaghmore Head are renowned with big-wave surfers, who flock to this tiny beach from all over the world to catch some of the greatest sets on the planet. It's here that the biggest wave was surfed in Ireland (estimated to be 18 metres high), and if you nab a good spot on the beach, you can watch as the experts ride perfect barrel waves. While those waves definitely aren't for beginners, there are plenty of options for would-be surfers who want to 'hang 10' for the first time, be it along the Sligo coast or up in Donegal, the northernmost county on the island. You can also try your hand at stand up paddleboarding, or see one of Ireland's most striking sights, Sliabh Liag (Slieve League), from a kayak. These sea cliffs, the highest of their kind in Europe, are impressive when seen from the lookout points along the grassy clifftops, but to really get a sense of their scale you need to see them from below. Head out on a sea kayaking expedition and you'll paddle past sea stacks and rocky arches, until you reach the sloping magnitude of the cliffs themselves, streaked with waterfalls that surge for hundreds of feet. The coastline is peppered with sights like this, places of striking natural beauty that embody the wonders of the island of Ireland. But there are also sights that tie into the cultural history of the land, where you can get a glimpse into the traditions that have taken place for centuries. In the village of Streedagh, you can step back in time to watch the Atlantic Sheepdogs at work, where border collies demonstrate their herding abilities under the watchful eye of sheep farmers, the flock moving as one like a murmuration. When you've seen the work of the dogs, why not appreciate the efforts of the sheep, with a trip to see the end-product – Donegal tweed? Studio Donegal is one place to witness what goes into this artisanal hand-woven cloth, from warping and winding the weft yarn or 'pirn', all the way through to garment making. Should you want to invest in a piece of history, there are ponchos, throws and scarves to purchase. Centuries-old traditions, whether taking place on beguiling landscapes where the fields meet the sea or in traditional places of manufacture, make you realise what's so magical about the island of Ireland. Discover more at
The Guardian
26-04-2025
- The Guardian
Stars of the sea: discover hidden gems along the Causeway Coastal Route and Wild Atlantic Way
The beauty of slow travel is having the space to discover local magic otherwise easily missed. Chatting with a farmer about some quirk of local history. Following a tip for the best seaview walks or trad music sessions or whatever you're having yourself. Gold-dust moments like these unfurl on self-guided routes along Northern Ireland's Causeway Coastal Route and Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way, which pick up at Derry~Londonderry. We asked locals along this northern coastline for their favourite gems on a route from the charming seaside town of Ballycastle, County Antrim, to the buzzing surf town of Strandhill, County Sligo. Musician Micheál Ó Seanáin explains that the Ballycastle Traditional Music Trail was 'born of the reputation and tradition of music in Ballycastle', where 'there's been music in various bars since the mid-1950s and 60s' (currently Wednesday to Friday and the first Saturday of each month). Book on to the Saturday afternoon trail to meet a pair of experienced local musicians at a shoreside bar for stories and music. Over a few hours you'll visit two more heritage pubs, learn about instruments from uilleann pipes to Irish bouzouki, share a song and even try some brush dancing. Ballycastle makes a charming overnight stay before day tripping to Rathlin Island's seabird colonies of guillemots, razorbills, and puffins. Thanks to a campaign to eliminate rats and ferrets, the future of these colourful ground-nesters on the island should be secure. Ó Seanáin also recommends seeing the coastline by horseback. Hazel Patterson describes Crindle Stables as a family-run affair that evolved from her daughter Hannah's desire to 'ride with unicorns'. While that dream didn't quite pan out, Hannah did showjump at international competitions with Team Ireland. Today Hannah and her sister Amy run Crindle Stables and Crindle Bespoke together with their parents. 'We offer a combination of farm and equestrian experiences and exploring the coast,' Hazel says, 'incorporating the history, the culture, the characters and the authenticity of our area.' Bookable experiences include mixed ability beach rides from Benone beach to Downhill beach through the shallow waters, sand dunes, streams and rocky waterside environs below Mussenden Temple. 'It's the ultimate mindfulness; when you're on the horse you literally cannot think of anything else. Then after all that connection with nature below and around you, I highly recommend zoning out with a sauna on the beach.' Hazel suggests either the local Hotbox saunas or hopping on the summertime ferry across Lough Foyle to The Sea View Sauna in County Donegal. Former school pals Darragh Kelly and Ronan Doherty, who run Sea View Sauna, have two wood-fired, barrel-shaped saunas with views through full-moon windows on to beauty spots in the Inishowen peninsula. The first, overlooking the Stroove lighthouse near the Moville-Greencastle coastal walk, proved so popular that they set up a second at Culdaff's beautiful blue flag beach. Kelly is a regular in his saunas. 'I'm a professional MMA fighter,' he says, 'and take my recovery very seriously. I use a lot of ice baths and saunas, and was going to get one for my house but then I thought 'why keep it to myself?' Now I use it at the beach whenever I want.' For the full Atlantic experience, nothing beats eating freshly shucked oysters straight from the water. For that, Kelly would send you to County Donegal's western coast, just above Ardara. Here, Edward Gallagher runs Irish Premium Oysters, a shoreside working farm where his semi-retired oyster farmer father, Jimmy, leads tours. Several times weekly, Jimmy welcomes visitors to walk out with him at low tide to see how the oysters grow from seed and to taste how peated water from local bogland lends a unique flavour to Gallagher's 'Speciale' oysters. It's not all about the oysters however, Edward says. 'In a group of four, one will be mad about the oysters and the other three are more amazed to hear Jimmy's tales about the curse put on this bay that caused the local heron to disappear.' (No spoiler alerts; Jimmy will have to tell you the rest himself.) 'My father has any amount of time on his hands,' Edward says, so he won't be shy of sharing recommendations in the area, whether for favourite local walks or secret beaches. For another altogether different working farm experience, however, he might send you down to Grange, just north of Sligo town. Here, Martin and Trish Feeney are childhood neighbours turned sweethearts turned the husband and wife team who run Atlantic Sheepdogs, with the help of their next generation of 'three little men', a loyal pack of nine border collies and several flocks of diverse sheep breeds. Having learned from his father, Eugene, at the age of 11, Martin became the youngest ever competitor to win the annual international young sheepdog handler title. His personal hobby has become a unique award-winning tourist attraction, with daily sheepdog demonstrations year-round. 'It's a raw unfiltered Ireland, learning about real life on the farm in real time,' Trish says. 'Martin does all the demos, and he's witty and chatty and has a lovely way of putting the story across. Our visitors love the warm Irish family welcome, and they love seeing the bond he has with the dogs and how intently they listen to him, whether it's a whisper or a whistle.' From their family farm, Trish would send you to the buzzing surf town of Strandhill, where Voya Seaweed Baths beckons with the final unwind of your slow-travel tour: a long soak in a hot bath filled with organic seaweed hand-harvested from the wild Atlantic shoreline for all its healing, detoxifying, nourishing properties. 'Strandhill is a busy place,' Trish says, 'but then you step into the calm and serenity of Voya. And the seaweed baths themselves are like bringing the seaside inside.' Where better to contemplate the special memories you've gathered along the Causeway Coastal Route and Wild Atlantic Way, and plan your return visit? Discover more at
