Journey through the scenic wonders of Bohemian Switzerland

The Star

02-06-2025

The rock formations seem straight out of a fantasy film, with some looking like giant mushrooms and others resembling turtles.
Then there's the twisted Doggen tower and the Janus head, all part of the landscape of bizarre sandstone sculptures.
Welcome to Tiske Steny (Tyssa Walls), a rock labyrinth in the Czech Republic, very close to the German border.
It's been used as a backdrop for plenty of films, though, such as the location for The Chronicles Of Narnia.
But anyone can go and hike through the area. And if you choose to head through the jagged formation of sandstone rocks and cliffs during off season, you can enjoy it almost to yourself.
The German side, an Alpine-like area just south of Dresden called 'Saxon Switzerland' (Sachsische Schweiz), can get pretty crowded on weekends, drawing some two million walkers a year on weekends.
But a few kilometres away, over the border in the Czech Republic, you can find peace and calm in the more remote areas of Bohemian Switzerland.
'That's exactly why I'm often drawn to this wonderful world of stones,' says Czech tour guide Sven Czastka, who often brings holidaymakers through the rocky landscape. 'The geological diversity in a small area makes the area a scenic jewel,' he says.
'Experienced hikers can get here from the Schweizermuhle mill through the Bielatal valley – a wonderful tour along the Hercules Columns, which measures around 20km as a circular route,' says Czastka.
There's plenty to explore at the Bohemian Switzerland National Park.
The rugged labyrinth of the Tyssa walls with its small caves and narrow passages is also a fun adventure for children who can enjoy clambering around. Young and grown up guests alike appreciate the refreshments available in the Turisticka Chata, a rustic restaurant at the entrance to the cliffs.
On the way to the nearby High Snow Mountain (Decinsky Sneznik), at 723m the highest point in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, Czastka talks about close cooperation with German partners.
There are cross-border kayak trips on the Elbe Rover, cycling tours on the Elbe cycle path and the 105km-long Forststeig, a multi-day hike through both countries.
Public and private local transport is coordinated across the border so that holidaymakers can explore both national parks and protected landscape areas, aided by a joint timetable.
Photogenic place
You can experience just how uncomplicated a cross-border tour can be on a trip on a hiking boat. It travels from Bad Schandau via Schmilka to Hrensko in the Czech Republic. The Schrammsteine tower up to 150m on the right side of the Elbe.
The former border station behind Schmilka recalls times gone by. Once you arrive in Hrensko, one of the most exciting tours on Bohemian territory begins.
The hiking trail winds steadily upwards along serpentine bends until you reach the Prebisch Gate (Pravcicka brana). At 16m high and with a span of 26.5m, the largest sandstone rock bridge in Europe is imposing and impressive.
It is the landmark of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park.
Mainly German hikers, but also tourists from Japan, Austria, Switzerland and Belgium compete for the best photo location. Even Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen recognised the tourism potential of this natural wonder as early as 1881 and had a hiking trail and excursion castle built.
Now, you can head to a restaurant offering goulash, dumplings and Czech beer.
Good Czech food can be found along the border, refreshing for hikers who explore the national parks there.
Impressive landscape
Meanwhile if you are on the German side of the border, head to the Bastei bridge, a centuries-old stone structure built into a majestic 194m rock formation. It offers breathtaking views of the mystical landscape and the Elbe river winding through the valley below.
The highlight for many is staring down the cliffs below the Bastei ramparts built into the sandstone landmark.
However, if you have come to the Bastei for the perfect pic, you will need patience, as this is one of Germany's most popular day-trip destinations.
But things should be easier thanks to a new platform 'floating' over the rock formation.
After securing the rock, the platform, which is about 20m long and 3.5m wide, was placed above it. The US$3.4mil (RM14.45mil) construction is supported at the back of the rock and hangs freely in front at a low height, so that it seems to float.
The Saxon Switzerland national park is located some 50km east of Dresden and can be easily reached via public transport. It's also great for a weekend trip from Berlin or Prague.
Situated in a relatively inexpensive part of Germany, the nearby town of Bad Schandau with its hotels, restaurants and historic streetcar is a good starting point for hikes, and is about three hours from Berlin by train or car. – MICHAEL JUHRAN/dpa