Osteria Angelina
This food is interesting and adventurous – it's fusion but not naff or ill-thought out
Osteria Angelina is the shiny new outpost of the Japanese-Italian fusion tasting menu restaurant, and it is absolutely, hands-down brilliant. With loud music, high glassy ceilings and a smell which can only be described as new, this is a swanky place, just a short walk from Liverpool Street in a former cotton factory. It's a thoughtful rethinking of the OG with an entirely different menu – though the care, quality and spirit of the original outpost remain.
I started with a glug of peachy Soave, before tucking into small plate starters, including quite possibly the best heritage tomato salad I have ever tasted. The milk bread, fluffy but dense, was a joy to use, sponge-like, to soak up the vinaigrette dressing (though I was less sold on its accompanying marmalade, which felt like overkill). Don't skimp on the crudo, which is delectable: especially the seared tuna, with a small kick of wasabi, swimming in a sea of garlicky green juice. The sea bream, slightly nutty and served with pear, was softer, but just as tender and gorgeous.
Pasta-wise, you're going to want to go for the tortellini, which was all fresh truffle and kelp. Then onto the big boys: ox tongue with wasabi (not at all tongue like), was gorgeously gamey and umami, and went down a treat with a superb side of greens, suffocating in parmesan.
Avoid ordering the charcoal-coloured sesame cheesecake, which was so dense it could have stopped a door, but the chilli sorbet, served with fresh grapes and blueberries, danced on the tongue with a serious kick. This food is interesting and adventurous – it's fusion but not naff or ill-thought out. A Deans-listed, top-of-the-year, first-class graduation.
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