Wrapped rice dumplings stand the test of time
KUALA LUMPUR: From humble beginnings in Petaling Street to establishing her own storefront, Elaine Tan has poured her heart into perfecting the art of making zongzi, or bak chang, for over three decades.
The 65-year-old's passion for rice dumplings began when she started helping her sister with her business.
"My sister used to make zongzi to sell whenever the Dragon Boat Festival came around, right there in Petaling Street.
"Once she taught me, I got the hang of it after just four tries. From then on, I would help her wrap zongzi every Dragon Boat Festival," she said.
After a year of helping out, Tan's interest grew exponentially, eventually leading to the establishment of her restaurant — Y E Traditional Dumplings — which has operated from the same location in Pandan Jaya since 1996.
What began as a small eatery with just four tables has since expanded into a full-fledged restaurant, specialising in a variety of bak chang tailored to suit all tastes.
"You can eat a zongzi in just a few minutes, but making one takes at least two days.
"Every ingredient has to be thoroughly checked and cleaned. Nothing is used straight out of the package — you can't just grab it and start wrapping. It doesn't work like that," Tan explained.
In preparation for the Dragon Boat Festival, her team begins work two months in advance, soaking bamboo leaves, marinating pork, steaming mushrooms, and preparing dozens of fillings by hand.
Today, the restaurant offers over 13 varieties of rice dumplings, many of which were created based on feedback and conversations with her customers.
"An elderly man once told me he couldn't eat glutinous rice. I saw the disappointment on his face and felt sorry for him.
"So, I started experimenting with brown rice dumplings — for those with diabetes or digestive issues. It turned out to be quite popular with customers looking for a healthier alternative."
Another unique variation Tan offers is a giant 2kg rice dumpling, which she created after receiving requests from customers who wanted to gift zongzi to others.
Despite modern technology, she remains committed to traditional methods, insisting that everything is made by hand.
To ensure this, she would personally train each worker in the art of wrapping rice dumplings.
"I don't let outsiders wrap the zongzi we sell. If even one doesn't meet my standard, it could spoil the whole batch.
"Everyone has their way of wrapping, but I guide them to ensure consistency," she said.
Due to limited staffing and the demanding nature of the work, often starting at dawn and ending near midnight, Tan has rejected the idea of expanding the business.
"I've never considered it. This line of work is simply too exhausting," she said, candidly.
She has even attempted to pass the business on to her family, but without success.
"My family? They all ran away when I tried to teach them.
"They can't handle it — it's oily, dirty work and it's very time-consuming," she said.
Despite this, Tan keeps her spirits up and strives forward, driven not by profit but by pride and her passion for the craft of making rice dumplings.
"When the rice dumplings turn out beautifully, I feel a sense of achievement. I want my customers to enjoy them, to feel happy eating them."
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