
How to Travel to the Most Remote Office on Earth
In November 2023, Jessica Studer, a 33-year-old research medical doctor and professional pianist from Bremgarten, Switzerland, prepared for her trip to Antarctica's Concordia research station. Most work trips require a flight and a few nights in a hotel; hers would involve several days of travel and a year at the most remote outpost in the world.
Very few people have experience preparing for such an extreme journey. Concordia sits at 10,600 feet above sea level, with winter temperatures plummeting to minus 112 degrees Fahrenheit. It's accessible only by aircraft during the summer months, from November to February, and the station is more isolated than the International Space Station, 240 miles above Earth's surface.
Studer spent a full year at the station conducting biomedical research for the European Space Agency. Concordia, operated by the French Polar Institute and Italy's National Antarctic Research Program, serves in part as a simulation of a space station. During her time there, Struder studied the effects of isolation and confinement on herself and her crewmates to better understand what could happen to astronauts on long deep-space missions.
WIRED spoke with Studer about how she got to her very remote office.
Concordia research station, which consists of two towers connected by a tunnel, can serve as a simulation of a space station. Photograph: ESA/IPEV/PNRA - B. Healey
The journey started with a train to Paris, arriving at Gare de Lyon. I decided to take an Uber to the airport. That was super interesting, because Uber drivers always like to chat, and when you're sitting in the car and say 'I'm going to Antarctica for a year' they just look at you, with the three backpacks, like, You're not serious, right?
At the Paris airport, I met some of the French crew for the first time. We flew to Christchurch, New Zealand, (with a layover in Singapore) and that's when I really connected with the other two women going to Antarctica. We sat next to each other, discussing things like, 'How is it going to be?' 'What did you pack?' 'Did you take more clothes than they're giving us?' 'Do you have special equipment?' It was a chat about everyone's strategies, what we did, what we had, if we took medical supplies from the lab.
In the morning, we met in front of our hotel in Christchurch and took some small buses. The crew helped me carry my bags because I was still downloading data from my cloud to ensure I'd have it in Antarctica. So there I was, ready to go to the airport, still downloading. I was super stressed. At the airport, every bag is checked. They make sure you don't have more kilograms than allowed, as that's an issue for the plane. They also ensure you don't have anything not allowed in Antarctica, like seeds, food, or plants. Basically, they want to make sure the continent stays as it is.
The plane is a Hercules C-130, super impressive. You arrive on this little bus, and you see this monstrous plane, and you enter through the back. Then you sit next to each other in these longitudinal seats. And then it's departure for a seven-hour trip without toilets, with a little snack, a lot of sound around you—just sitting until you see, for the first time, a bit of Antarctica.
Concordia is more isolated than the International Space Station, 240 miles above Earth's surface. Photograph: ESA/IPEV/PNRA - A. Kumar
You see these wonderful ice shelves from the little windows you have there. The first thing you see when you step out is just ice everywhere. You're really new to this environment, and sometimes it feels a little bit like being on another planet.
There's an Italian station there, and we were supposed to stay for a day. But what we learned very fast is that, in French, we say, en Antarctique pas de pronostique , meaning, 'no forecast in Antarctica,' because the weather is super unpredictable. So, instead of staying one night, we stayed almost a week.
This station is just a logistical one; it's not meant to host people, and everyone who stays there blocks others from coming in. It's a real logistical challenge for the people working there, so they want us to leave as fast as possible. But the weather is so unpredictable that you can't just take a plane and go inland. You need to wait until the weather is almost stable, and the pilot says, 'I'm ready to fly,' because he has the final word.
I still had my data problem from before, and I was trying to connect to the internet. There, it was like the internet of the '90s—you know, beep beep beep . I tried to log in, and finally, after maybe two or three hours, on one computer, I got to the stage where it said, 'OK, I'm going to log in to your account so you can download your stuff. Please give me your phone number. I'm going to send you an SMS to log in.' That was the double verification, and it wasn't working because, obviously, there's no phone service. So I couldn't access my data because of this double verification.
Finally, we took a plane. This one is smaller, a Basler BT-67 plane, which comes from Canada to fly within Antarctica and then goes back to Canada at the end of the season. This plane ride took four hours. It's a non-pressurized plane. You make sure to put all your clothes on, to be ready to go out in Concordia, because it's about minus 30 Celsius. We were super afraid.
The first thing after landing in Concordia was this feeling of dizziness, vertigo. What I didn't know when I arrived there is that you're at 3,200 meters above sea level, so you feel the altitude a little bit. After four hours in this small plane, where you just see flatness of white, and nothing else, you come down to Concordia.
From a distance, you see the station. That station seems so small because there's literally nothing around it—no mountains, nothing. And you have this little boulot dans l'estomac , as we say in French, like butterflies, because, you know, 'Wow, that's going to be my home for one year.' We came down to Concordia station, and the crew that had just spent a year and was now leaving the station, was awaiting us and welcomed us very warmly. They got us inside the station because we were sometimes afraid of high-altitude sickness. They want to make sure no one is carrying anything heavy, that we're not doing physical activity. They told us, 'Just stay calm for the next few days.'
Concordia is accessible only by aircraft during the summer months, from November to February. In winter, temperatures plummet to minus 112 degrees Fahrenheit. Photograph: ESA/IPEV/PNRA - A. Kumar
The station is made of two towers, with 18 faces for each tower. It's basically white, with a little bit of orange, and that's it. You enter through a tunnel between the two towers. You take off your boots and leave all your stuff there. It's quite small. Then you can go to the left, which is the 'calm tower.' Inside, you have the dormitories, the laboratories, and the hospital. It has three floors. The middle floor is dormitories, and the upper floor is laboratories. It's called the 'calm tower' to keep it calm. Then we go to the other tower, on the right side from the entrance. It has the technical stuff. On the second floor, there's the video room for movies and the sports room. On the top, you have the living room, the eating area, and the kitchen.
In five minutes, you've done the tour of your new home. It's super impressive because you think, 'Someone had to build this in the middle of nowhere. Someone had to take the first steps.' And this is just incredible. So many people go to Antarctica with nothing. We arrive here, and we have the luxury of having this building to protect us from this environment.
It's so out of this world to be there. We've seen a lot of pictures of Antarctica, and we've probably read a lot of books, but you've never been in the center of Antarctica, which is quite different. There's no life—no birds, no trees—there's literally nothing, nothing but ice and wind.
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An Italy Travel Expert's Perfect Itinerary for a Luxe Girls Trip to Rome
Rome is the perfect destination for a girls trip—there's no shortage of chic activities to partake in or women-owned establishments to support. In fact, throughout my career as a travel advisor, I've planned countless trips for girl groups, bachelorette parties, and even all-female family trips. Whether you're looking to learn about history, shop for Italian leather, or just spend some quality time abroad with the women in your life, here are my top tips for a Roman holiday with some feminine flair. Statues of the House of Vestal Virgins in the Roman Forum. Iconic attractions like the Roman Forum and the Michelangelo-designed Capitoline Hill are must-visits on any trip to Rome. There, travelers can familiarize themselves with the capital's founding and complex past, especially with the help of a knowledgeable tour guide. While most tours neglect the stories of influential women in Roman history and mythology, some, like Stellavision Travel, make sure to spotlight them. You can learn about the legendary noblewoman and heroine Lucretia; the goddess of victory, Nike; and the six priestesses known as the Vestal Virgins—all while experiencing the stunning sights of Rome's most historic neighborhood. A tourist walking in the city streets with shopping bags. Retail therapy is the ultimate girls trip indulgence, but finding chic shops amongst the souvenirs can be a tall order, particularly in Rome. Don't miss Voodoo Jewels, a by-appointment-only jewelry showroom. The brand, whose offerings range from fashion to semi-precious, was founded in 2002 by Livia Lazzari, a Roman designer. Across the Tiber River, in the beautiful passageway of Via di Monserrato, you'll find L'Archivio di Monserrato, a two-floor boutique. There, Argentinian fashion designer Soledad Twombly curates a selection of clothing, antiques, and textiles from around the world; in some cases, you may be invited to see her collection of artwork in the basement. A table setting in an Italian osterias are perfect for a quintessentially Roman experience, but my girlfriends and I typically favor women-run spots that feature updated culinary classics in design-forward spaces. At SantoPalato, chef and owner Sarah Cicolini emphasizes quality ingredients and low waste while serving revitalized Italian classics. Mazzo, Francesca Barreca's modern trattoria, offers generous helpings of hearty Roman food in an upscale setting. At either restaurant, you're in for a delicious meal complemented by extensive wine lists and cool decor. The exterior view of Fendi Private Suites in Rome. When in Rome … Why not live like the city's most famous sisters? The storied Fendi family focuses on fashion, of course—Silvia Fendi's brand headquarters are in one of my favorite buildings in Rome, the Square Colosseum. You'll also find Fendi fingerprints on exciting antiques at Federica Formilli Fendi's Triplef store. The sisters have recently entered into hospitality with the Fendi Private Suites, located within the historic Fendi Palazzo above the flagship store. They provide guests with luxurious stays and the ultimate view over the Spanish Steps. Another fashionable option is Alda Fendi's Rhinoceros Roma. These apartments, which sit between the Tiber River and the Circus Maximus, combine industrial-chic decor with serious art credentials. From the ground-floor museum to the rooftop restaurants, Rhinoceros offers plenty of spots to gather with your girls. Zoe Shapiro is a member of Travel + Leisure's A-List and specializes in female-focused trips. You can create a tailor-made itinerary with Shapiro by contacting her at [email protected] .
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Travel + Leisure
4 hours ago
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There's a Chic, All-inclusive Resort Hiding in a Charming Swiss Alps Town—With Mountain Views and a Heated Pool
The residential-inspired interiors add an effortlessly cool vibe and make The Brecon feel like a home away from home. The team at The Brecon can arrange transportation to pick up guests from Frutigen train station, the nearest one to the hotel, which is just 25 minutes away. The hotel's spa features a steam room, sauna, and ice bath, all neatly tucked away for maximum relaxation. The outdoor pool is kept year-round to 93°F and offers panoramic views of the Adelboden Massif. I arrived in the Swiss village of Adelboden during a particularly good weather spell. The sun was shining on its traditional Alpine chalets, with their red geranium-filled window boxes in full bloom. It was here, in the Bernese Oberland region, that the British originally helped popularize skiing as a leisure activity in the late 19th century. And Adelboden is just one of three communities that have been hosting World Cup ski races every year since 1967. Winter activities aside, though, warmer months bring postcard-perfect scenery around the village: wildflowers, winding roads, the faint sound of cowbells, and timber chalets punctuating the lush green mountainsides. So it's easy to see why this historic Alpine village is a treasured spot for Grant Maunder and his brother Craig, who hail from Wales and now own The Brecon Hotel in Adelboden—their family has been visiting for over 40 years. In 2009, the brothers, having once admired the exterior of an old Belle Epoque hotel at the end of the village, bought it and transformed it into The Cambrian, a family-friendly hotel with 72 rooms and a large, decked terrace. Then, last year, they opened the adults-only The Brecon, just a short ten-minute walk up the street from The Cambrian. The hotel's elegant entrance—a locally made revolving timber door—provides a hint of the experience, as discretion and luxury craftsmanship abound here. The welcome desk is directly in front of an open kitchen, with the breakfast room to the left and a beautiful living room to the right. The wall of windows that runs the length of the front of the building is a reminder that the views here are always the main attraction. A guest common area at The Brecon. Michael Sinclair/The Brecon Maunder tasked hip Amsterdam-based studio Nicemakers with the design. He wanted the hotel to evoke cool, mid-century clubhouses: laidback, stylish, and a world away from the grandeur of traditional Swiss five-star luxury. And Nicemakers nailed it: the hotel is warm and inviting, relaxing, comfortable, and effortlessly cool. Often, I prefer the privacy of downtime in my own room when I travel, but I found it easy to spend time with my travel companions lounging on the plush sofas beneath the coffered timber ceilings of the common lounge area with soft, shaggy rugs underfoot. I quickly found my favourite spot too—a little hidden nook with a leather banquette handily adjacent to the small bar. It was the best place to enjoy the great selection of culture-focused books and magazines artfully placed around vintage coffee tables, the waft of scented candles to boot. The artwork throughout, curated by Amsterdam's Bisou Gallery, was a visual feast, while the crazy-paved natural slate floor, which covers the ground floor common spaces and outdoor pool area, was laid by an artisan Maunder brought over from his native Wales. And his artist wife, Andrea Anderson, crafted in her studio each of the 950 ceramic plates, bowls, and cups used in the hotel. The Brecon is a hideaway for those seeking a more discreet version of luxury. It feels like the antidote to the glitz and high-octane glamour of the star-studded resorts of St. Moritz and Gstaad. Keep reading for a full review of The Brecon in the Swiss Alpine village of Adelboden. The first thing I noticed was that all 18 guest rooms and four suites at the hotel are pleasingly television-free. The rooms vary in size, ranging from just under 200 square feet for the Village Cosy to 775 square feet for the gorgeous two-story Mountain Loft with a bedroom and a living room on the lower level and another bedroom in the eaves on the upper level. I slept very well in my Mountain Cosy room, which, although one of the smallest, felt spacious and had a sumptuous bed and Melin Tregwynt wool blankets, custom-woven for the hotel. The decor is subtle: warm tones on the walls, rich textiles as drapes and rugs to absorb sound, and tiled bathrooms, stocked with a generous selection of Aesop products. Accommodations at the front of the hotel have balconies, too; mine was a corner wrap-around room so I could admire both the bubbling, heated pool below and panoramic views of the Engstligen waterfalls ahead in the distance. I spent golden hour with a cup of tea and a book, sitting out and staring at the mountains—the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau are all in the area. From left: Dinner at The Brecon; the chef at work in the hotel's kitchen. Michael Sinclair/The Brecon The hotel's all-inclusive policy really reinforces the feeling of staying with generous friends. My travel companions and I gathered around the living room sofas before dinner and enjoyed the self-service bar for drinks. If doing it yourself isn't your jam, then a server will happily prepare excellent cocktails or pour you a glass of wine. The award-winning Welsh chef Bryn Williams, who leads the kitchen at The Cambrian, created the culinary homestyle concept at The Brecon, too. There's an open kitchen focused on seasonal, locally sourced produce, but it steers clear of the traditional Alpine fare. For breakfast, there are locally cured meats, fresh fruit, pancakes, eggs, and muesli to set you up for a day of walks and exploring. Afternoon tea, served daily, offers freshly prepared baked treats and little sandwiches after a day out. For evening meals, all guests are encouraged to congregate for a 7 p.m. sitting to enjoy the chef's four-course menu (with vegetarian options) with wine pairings. Maunder explained that guests are asked to leave their phones and laptops behind, which, he hopes, would lead to more in-person interaction. The Brecon's pool has views of the Adelboden Massif. Michael Sinclair/The Brecon Winter offers an excellent variety of skiing, snowboarding, and other snow-inspired activities. Summer is prime time for hiking and biking. I'm not sporty, but I managed (and loved) the short trek to the beautiful Engstligen waterfalls, followed by a rustic mountain-top lunch of local cheeses and charcuterie. While the hotel's pool is more in the dipping range, each morning I swam at Adelboden's open-air 164-foot pool, just a five-minute walk from The Brecon. Our group also made it to Lake Oeschinen, which is about a 30-minute drive from Adelboden and part of the UNESCO World Heritage site Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch. With its perfectly turquoise waters, it resembles a movie set, complete with the gentle jangle of cow bells. There's a charming café for lunch and a cute ice cream parlour, too. We enjoyed a picnic, arranged by The Brecon, before going for a dip in the lake's cold waters. If you're looking for further outdoor thrills, the hotel can help organize paragliding and bungee jumping adventures in the area. From left: The Brecon's heated pool is kept at 34°C; the hotel's sauna. Michael Sinclair/The Brecon The hotel has a small spa with a steam room, sauna, ice bath, and a relaxation room with extraordinary views of the mountains. The outdoor pool is heated to a comforting 93°F year-round. One afternoon, I had an excellent 50-minute full-body massage that left me incredibly relaxed. I loved the sauna's one-way glass window, enabling guests inside to look out and see what was going on at the pool deck and the mountains beyond. The Brecon has a second entrance to the left of the building, providing wheelchair access. There is one accessible room on the first floor, and the spa's treatment room, sauna, and steam room are all accessible from the elevator. The hotel is part of Adelboden's communal green energy and heating system that supplies power to the village. The providing company guarantees that electricity purchased from the two local hydropower plants is entirely from renewable and ecologically produced sources. The hotel is also part of the village's biomass heating system, burning woodchips to heat most buildings. The wooden exterior of The Brecon in Adelboden, Switzerland. Michael Sinclair/The Brecon The Brecon is 42 miles away from Bern, and approximately two hours from both Zurich and Geneva. Swiss roads are excellent, and so are the trains. Buying the Swiss train pass is often a better way to travel, and some options include a selection of ski lifts and boat rides. For this trip, my party flew to Zurich, took a two-hour train ride from inside the airport to the small town of Frutigen, the closest train station to Adelboden. There, we were collected in the hotel's Land Rover Defender, and whizzed straight to The Brecon, 25 minutes away. The Brecon is not part of any hotel or credit card loyalty program. Nightly, all-inclusive rates at The Brecon start from $880. All guests must be 18 or older to stay. Every T+L hotel review is written by an editor or reporter who has stayed at the property, and each hotel selected aligns with our core values.
Yahoo
9 hours ago
- Yahoo
The mountain retreat - upholding an Italian tradition
The wheels on Josh Doig's plane had barely kissed Italian tarmac before he was whisked off to the Alps for a lung-pumping, leg-burning pre-season training camp with his new team-mates. "They said to me if you sign, you can go home, pack a bag, come back," laughs the Scotsman, reflecting on his arrival at Hellas Verona in July 2022. "I was expecting to be drip fed into it. "But literally I signed, then two hours [drive] straight up to the mountains, not speaking the language - it was terrifying, but after a few days I loved it." The ritiro pre-campionato - translated as pre-season retreat - is something of an Italian tradition. Clubs have long swapped hot and humid summers for fresh mountain air and picturesque surroundings in the north of the country, spending weeks preparing for the new season at high-altitude camps. "You have almost six weeks off with your family and then 17 days away," adds left-back Doig, now with Sassuolo in Serie A and speaking from his fourth such retreat, this one in the quiet Alpine village of Ronzone. "When you're in the mountains it's just head down and work hard. You feel dead on your feet every day but it is good because you know you are getting something out of it. "It is a shock to the system but it gets you right back in the swing of things with your fitness and the football way of mind." While many clubs, particularly those in the Premier League, now opt for lucrative global tours, the 'ritiro' remains relatively unscathed heritage in Serie A. "Every player has grown up with this kind of tradition," explains Genoa sporting director Marco Ottolini. "Maybe we have more mountains than other nations!" This summer, only AC Milan ventured outside Europe, playing in Hong Kong and Australia, with several clubs setting up retreats at their own training bases and 12 still making a trip to the slopes. Antonio Conte's Napoli are even doing it twice. "You have better air, oxygen," says Gokhan Inler, technical director at Udinese, who have made a short hop across the border to Austria. "You are more controlled with food and sleep. It helps build the group, new players come in faster." Italian disciplinarian Fabio Capello recreated a similar retreat with England before the 2010 World Cup in South Africa, grilling the squad away from friends and family in the small village of Irdning, tucked away in the Austrian Alps. Others, Italian football journalist Daniele Verri explains, would use the remote camps to control their players' behaviour or stop them partying in pre-season. "Fans wouldn't even know where their clubs would go," adds Verri. "Now you get full houses." Over time, the culture has changed - as well as open training sessions for fans, most clubs allow players' families to visit, the camps have become shorter and there are more team-building activities. Genoa's players, for example, have spent time rafting and on mountain walks. "In the past it was much longer," explains Ottolini from Genoa's base at Moena, in Val di Fassa, where they spent 11 days. "There were clubs that stayed in the mountains for three weeks and for me that was something that was damaging the mental health of the players. Now you have to manage the breaks, give some free time to do different activities." Training methods have evolved too, of course. "When I was younger it was more mountain runs, up and downs, more physical, 1,000m runs back and forth," says former Switzerland midfielder Inler, who spent eight seasons in Serie A with Udinese and Napoli. "Then slowly it changed. Some coaches, like Rafael Benitez, liked to run but on the pitch with a ball. "Now on the pitch you can do everything - more people, more scientific materials, you can check more data. Before you had GPS, but basic things, now you see sprints, distance, all these things to fine-tune the body." For Patrick Vieira's Genoa, a typical day - when there are no friendlies - consists of a morning and afternoon session, around which the players can use the spa and swimming pool, or do some recovery work with the physio. "Patrick has brought a lot of self-consciousness and he transmits this kind of charisma, this calmness in the right way that is good for everybody," says Ottolini. "Patrick is very organised, he gives the right breaks to the players and then in that hour when there is training he wants their full concentration, their full focus." At Sassuolo's camp, it has also been daily double sessions under Italian World Cup-winning left-back Fabio Grosso. "It is full on," explains Doig. "We always do running or gym in the morning and always ball work in the afternoon. The gaffer is good with that. "Now it is getting more tactical. Tactics, games in the afternoon - it gives you something to look forward to after the hard session in the morning." Of course, there is still always time for golf. "There is a beautiful course, Dolomiti Golf Course, five minutes' drive away," smiles Doig. "Whenever we get an afternoon off, we're straight there for like five hours." 'It's an event' - why Napoli have two camps As well as friendlies and open training sessions, clubs lay on events for visiting fans - Genoa boss Vieira spoke in the square at nearby Alpine resort Canazei and players took part in a table football tournament. "It is traditional for the supporters," adds Ottolini. "They like to come with families to watch games and training, to stay a bit closer to the team compared to what they can do during the season." So popular are the retreats among Napoli fans, they have put on two this summer. "In the 1980s, all Italian teams went to the mountains - fresh air, to build team spirit. It was really just between team-mates," says Naples-based journalist Vincenzo Credendino. "Now the retreat of Napoli is an event. They train during the day and then in the night there is always an event. "One night cinema, another night the presentation of the team, another there is Conte with his staff answering questions from people, another with four players, a disco night - it's a holiday village, really!" But there is also an economic incentive for clubs. Conte's side spent 11 days in Dimaro Folgarida, in Trentino's Val di Sole, before heading for two weeks in Castel di Sangro, in the Apennine Mountains in Abruzzo. "For the regions, it is good to have Napoli because Napoli bring a lot of fans who go to hotels, restaurants, they kayak, mountain bike," explains Credendino. "It's a lot of money - it's like a real business for the regions for Trentino and Abruzzo. They pay Napoli to come but they earn much more." Verri adds: "For a mountain resort looking for visibility, it can mean a lot to host a top club's pre-season training camp. It attracts publicity and above all fans, lots of fans. "That is why it can be worth attracting teams for the retreat with sponsorships, free accommodation and various benefits." It begs the question - would clubs consider ditching the traditional retreats for more lucrative overseas options in future? "For the player it is hard," says Inler of that option. "After a long season, you go to a tour and it is a big fatigue, especially mentally. Smaller clubs, you are here in Europe, then it is less fatigue. "If you are higher, if you are a better player, everybody wants something from you, the club needs to promote you, needs to promote the club - the higher you go the more you have to do." 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