Heritage transformed as modern escapes
Historic department store reimagined as cafe in Mokpo
Travelers exploring southern South Korea may want to add the newly opened Cafe Hwashin Chainstore to their itinerary. This grand cafe is housed in a historic building that was originally the Hwashin Department Store, built in 1935 during the Japanese colonial era.
Upon entering, visitors are greeted by two towering columns that reflect the grandeur of the former department store. The cafe officially opened on Jan. 15 and has already become a popular weekend destination.
Near the entrance is an informational display about the building's transformation from the original Hwashin Department Store to its current iteration as Cafe Hwashin Chainstore.
The cafe's interior exudes a sophisticated charm reminiscent of a hotel lobby, featuring chandeliers, large sofas and elegant tables. The second-floor space is carpeted, with curtains draped over high windows that amplify the hotel-like feel.
The cafe's signature drink is the 1990 Hwashin Cream Latte, a modern take on Vienna coffee featuring a rich cream topping. It's priced at 6,500 won ($4.54). Dessert options include tiramisu and chestnut cake.
Cafe Hwashin Chainstore is open daily from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Cafe Hwashin Chainstore
75 Beonhwa-ro, Mokpo-si, South Jeolla Province
Heritage site hosting boundary-challenging exhibition
Heredium, a cultural space in Daejeon that opened in 2023, is a restored heritage site with a 100-year legacy. Here, the work of Markus Lupertz, one of the best-known German contemporary artists, challenges traditional artistic boundaries.
If you crave visual art that spurs the imagination, the exhibition titled 'Sins, Myths and Other Questions' at Heredium is the one. Lupertz's work is a groundbreaking exploration of the interplay between abstraction and figuration, referencing biblical, mythological and historical themes.
In paintings described as "dithyrambs," the ancient Greek hymns to the god Dionysus, Lupertz achieves a fusion of seemingly opposing elements that blur the boundary between figurative and abstract art. The exhibition runs until Feb. 28. The cultural space is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
The cultural space itself is also worth visiting as a historical site. Built in 1922, during the Japanese colonial era, it was used as an office by the Japanese government in projects of colonial exploitation, according to the cultural center.
Heredium
74-1 In-dong, Dong-gu, Daejeon
Where vinyl rules the night
In Seoul's Yongridan-gil, now one of the city's most buzzing nightlife districts, a new wave of restaurants and bars has been drawing crowds of the city's most discerning patrons. Among them, VIBD BLVD stands out for those seeking the pulse and thrum of analog sound.
Located steps from Samgakji Station on Subway Line No. 6, the venue requires keen eyes to spot -- it's tucked away on the second floor of one of the area's characteristic paint-chipped low-rises. A weathered concrete stairwell leads to an orange metal gate, beyond which visitors are beckoned by the unmistakable thump of bass and the scratch of needle on vinyl.
In this dimly lit, compact space, the walls are lined floor to ceiling with LPs, CDs and cassettes. Its bare-bones aesthetic -- concrete ceiling, wooden tables and strict four-persons-per-table limit -- directs the focus where it belongs: The DJ booth positioned within arm's length of the bar seats, where vintage tracks endlessly spin into the night.
The groove-laden soundtrack leans heavily into funk and Japanese-inspired "city pop" from the 1970s and '80s, with contemporary favorites making occasional appearances. While the DJ maintains strict curatorial control -- each table is limited to two requests, with additional selections earned through orders -- they occasionally indulge offbeat choices. On a recent night, Prince's rock anthem "Purple Rain" found its way into the mix, an out-of-left-field pick that melded seamlessly with the evening's retro vibes.
The menu matches the minimalist approach: butter popcorn (9,000 won), nachos (13,000 won), and a careful selection of standards -- draft beer, a handful of basic cocktails and shots. Their house special, a cranberry-based concoction dubbed the VIBD Signature, offers an inspired addition to the classics.
Arrive early -- doors open at 8:30 p.m. -- as seats fill quickly in this vinyl sanctuary. All drinks must be paid for upfront.
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