Ancient India review – snakes, shrines and sexual desire power a passionate show
You can see this happen in the bustling yet harmonious crowd of pilgrims and gift-givers you meet about a third of the way through this ethereal and sensual show. Two horses bearing courtiers or merchants are portrayed in perfect perspective, their rounded chests billowing, their bodies receding. Around them a crowd of travelling companions, on horseback and foot, are depicted with the same depth. Their bodies and faces are full of life, in a frenetic pageant, a bustling carnival, yet this human hubbub is composed with order and calm.
It's a Buddhist masterpiece, which helps explain the inner harmony: one of a group of stunning reliefs in this show from the Great Stupa of Amaravati, excavated in the early 1800s by the East India Company and now owned by the British Museum. A stupa is a domed structure holding Buddhist or Jain relics, perhaps modelled on prehistoric mounds, but this one was embellished in the first century AD with sublime pictorial art. Buddha himself stands further along the slender stone block, taller and more still than everyone else.
The exact dates of Siddhartha Gautama, the teacher and seeker of enlightenment who became the Buddha, are unknown but by the time this work was created the movement he started was about 500 years old and spearheading one of the most influential renaissances in the story of world art. This exhibition gets to that artistic truth in an unlikely way. It doesn't bother with the minutiae of stylistic change or dynastic history. Instead, it tells a passionate story about the three great religions of ancient India – Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism – and their vitality across time. You meet practitioners of these faiths in Britain today, sharing their devotion on film. This is a wonderfully direct way to blast the museum dust off such ancient art – and when that dust clears, you get a much better sense of its living power.
Hindu and Jain beliefs are older than Buddhism (far older, in the case of Hinduism) but it was after the Buddhist breakthrough in storytelling art that they too became brilliantly figurative. Is it crude to see this as competition? It was at the very least a dialogue. At first I mistook a display of beautiful Jain statues for Bodhisattvas, Buddhist saints. In fact, the slender swaying grace of these figures embodies the ascetic Jain ideal of universal compassion.
Yet the biggest, most spectacular artistic transformation was achieved by Hinduism. You can't get a friendlier, more paradoxically human deity than the elephant-headed Ganesha. A statue of him in this show, dating from about AD1100 to AD1200, is a technical miracle in the way the artist fuses an elephant's head with a human body – both precisely observed. But it's the pathos that gets you, the artist's intuition of the wisdom and sensitivity of elephants. Ganesha here is not just divine but lovable.
Such moving, homely art is a long way from a black stone lingam, the older, aniconic Hindu representation of Shiva as a male tube being inserted into a female yoni. But sexual desire is a feeling too and the big difference between Christianity and the religions here is Indian sacred art's embrace of the erotic. Statuettes and plaques that date from as early as 300BC depict Yaksis, female nature spirits, with jewellery on their curvy bodies and the same spherical, bulging breasts that you see throughout the show. Female sexual and reproductive power are celebrated simultaneously in the art of all three great religions. Another relief from the Great Stupa of Amaravati portrays The Birth of the Buddha. Its main character is Gautama's mother, Queen Maha Maya. She lies on a bed in a curvy pose, and gives birth in a posture almost as luxuriant.
Growing up in a Protestant Christian church, I thought of religion as a taking away, a denial. Here it is an addition – human and elephant, spirit and body, dream and reality. Life infuses these religions: they don't oppose themselves to it. That appetite for reality, as they attempt to make sense of the cosmos, mortality and desire, to find the dharma, must be what made India's religions so exportable. Many of us don't think of Buddhism as specifically Indian because it has spread so far so quickly. One of the most captivating works here is a silk painting of the Buddha set in a dreamworld of deep reds and greens, from a cave near Dunhuang, China, created in the eighth century AD. Nearby in the same final space is a statue of Ganesha from Java, one of the many places Hinduism took root.
This is an exhibition with a true sense of mystery. Not just in the atmospheric way it is lit with coloured misty veils separating displays, or even the marvels you encounter such as a nagini snake goddess floating in the shadows – but in the way it worships life.
Ancient India: Living Traditions is at the British Museum, London, from 22 May to 19 October
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2 hours ago
- Telegraph
The 21 best restaurants in Goa
My favourite memory of Goa is waking up to the sound of the bread makers on their cycles every morning as they sold freshly baked pao (local bread) to families and restaurants. While this tradition continues, Goa's neighbourhoods, like Assagao, have shot to fame in recent years for their humble family-run eateries and a string of new bars and fine dining restaurants. As for what to order, Goan fish thali is also a must-try and there are many options across the state. This meal is unlike the rest of the country, thanks to the influence of Hindu Saraswat communities interspersed with Portuguese-influenced Catholic cuisine. Both use spices, seasonal produce and rely on rice as a staple, but mainly differ in their cooking styles. All our recommendations below have been hand-selected and tested by our resident destination expert to help you discover the best restaurants in Goa. Find out more below, or for more Goa inspiration, see our guides to the region's best hotels, bars, beaches and things to do. Find a restaurant by type: Best all-rounders Best for families Best for cheap eats Best for fine dining Best for walk-ins Best for light bites Best all-rounders Avo's Kitchen Brothers Amey and Gaurish Naik present their mother Vidya's recipes on the menu at Avo's Kitchen. The thalis are the highlight and a must-order. There are the usual xacuti and vindaloo curries, but request a traditional Saraswat thali and it is guaranteed to win you over. Expect plenty of local greens, hearty stews made with seasonal produce and coastal delicacies such as fried neerphanas (breadfruit) and wash it down with a glass of cool sol kadhi (kokum and coconut milk). Bomras One of the old timers in Goa's food scene, Bomras ranks high in the state's list of coveted restaurants with its numerous awards and accolades. Although Burmese restaurants have become popular across India in recent years, Bomras has been around since the Noughties, thanks to chef Bawmra Jap, who brought dishes from his home country, Myanmar. The tamarind pork, kachin chicken, and raw papaya salad are a must-order, as is the Bastenga (fermented bamboo shoot) Bloody Mary. Padaria Prazeres Take a break from Goan staples for one day and head to Padaria Prazeres, which is in a quiet residential part of Panjim. It is hard to miss thanks to its bright mustard-hued façade. Inside, you're greeted by the waft of freshly baked bread and pastries. They take pride in their brunch dishes but particularly their pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tarts) and palmiers, which are the brainchild of owner Ralph Prazares, whose credentials include working in renowned London establishments such as Bao, St. John, Clos Maggiore and The Rosewood. Vinayak Family Restaurant Assagao is now celebrated as Goa's ultimate food neighbourhood, but before the string of fine-dining establishments came about, every local and visitor headed to Vinayak, a humble, family-run spot with striking views of paddy fields. Expect a short wait over the weekends, but it's worth it if you're looking for a satisfying Goan fish thali lunch or light bites, like the famous semolina-coated, marinated fried prawns and chicken xacuti. Back to index Best for families Copperleaf Porvorim If there were one restaurant that could please various members of the family, it would be Copperleaf. The award-winning outlet in Porvorim has been around for many years and is still a crowd pleaser. You'll find north Indian classics, like naan and paneer, but the prawn kismoor (a mix of roasted prawns with grated coconut, spices and tamarind) in the seafood thali has won praise. Another reason why diners love coming here is for the staff and service Area: Porvorim Website: Price: ££ Reservations: Recommended during peak season Spice Goa Fish thali restaurants are peppered across the state. Spice Goa has wowed many travellers on the Goa-Mumbai Highway, but still has a quiet village feel inside. There's plenty of fresh, seasonal fish here and it can be cooked as you'd like it – fried or in a curry. What you must not leave without trying are the prawns that are marinated in a special masala and steamed in banana leaves. The Tanjore Tiffin Room Taking a break from Goan fare, here you'll be treated to cuisine from India's east coast, particularly the state of Tamil Nadu. Though the menu in this bistro can seem meat-heavy, with lamb biryani, attukal paya (lamb trotters), mutton stew and slow-cooked pork curry, there's a plethora of vegetarian choices, like beetroot fritters and jackfruit ghee roast. The drinks are delightfully southern, too. Order a sweet rum, tamarind and coconut cocktail to accompany your fiery meal. The Second House One for multi-generational families to look out for. In a restored, 108-year-old mansion spread across two levels, The Second House still manages to offer intimate dining. Wander through its many rooms, where you'll find plants in every nook, quirky art installations, a conservatory and a traditional Goan balcão (porch). Grab a table with the plush couches and enjoy chef Jyoti's take on global cooking – try the sea bass ceviche garnished with raw mango or some Goan-Egyptian bread. Cavatina Imagine Santorini meets Goa, which sounds odd, but it works at Cavatina, where chef Avinash Martins says his menu has a 'local heart but a global soul'. Each dish is inspired by his travels and some pay a tribute to the tribes of Goa. The star dish is the 'prawns who drank feni', served in a whole coconut and inspired by his travels in Kolkata, where a similar dish is served with prawns and mustard in coconut. Back to index Best for cheap eats Bhatti Village The beauty of Goa is that, unlike its Indian touristy counterparts, you can actually dine at someone's home, and Bhatti Village is one such gem. Patrick and Merciana D'Souza operate this canteen out of their home and will happily guide you through their Goan Catholic menu. Go for the hot and sour pork stew called sorportel (where the vinegar is made in-house) and cool off with a traditional Portuguese whipped cream and biscuit serradura pudding. Area: Nerul Contact: 0091 982 218 4103; Price: £ Reservations: Not essential. Confeitaria 31de Janeiro Through the labyrinth of Goa's Latin Quarter, Fontainhas, you'll pass local boutiques and languid stray dogs, but you'll also come across the quaint Confeitaria 31de Janeiro – one of Goa's oldest bakeries, dating back to 1930. Grab a table outside where you can enjoy a ros omelette (omelette served with xacuti gravy), cakes like a bebinca (a rich layered cake) or a rum ball, which is a local favourite. Amancio Classic For over four decades, Amancio has been a local favourite in the village of Siolim. It's also in a convenient location, between Chapora River and Siolim Fish Market, guaranteeing the seafood is fresh. The space is unpretentious and the bar is what greets you upon arrival, with a list of inexpensive cocktails. Though their traditional Goan food is fantastic, give the Indian-style lobster thermidor and the butter garlic calamari a try. Back to index Best for fine dining Hosa Hosa translates to 'new' in Kannada, the official language of Goa's neighbouring state, Karnataka. The team behind Indian Accent in Mumbai and Delhi opened Hosa by the river near Saint Anthony's Church. Tones of ebony and ivory in this refurbished Goan mansion create a lively warmth, with further character from the mosaic floor and tropical Indian flora. The food is a modern take on southern Indian classics, such as mutton pepper roast and vadacurry. Izumi Chef Noorseha Kably's brainchild, Izumi, was a welcoming change to Assagao's dining scene. She honed her culinary and sushi skills in Japan and, after finding success in Mumbai, her food has been a big hit among locals and visitors in Goa. There's a live sushi and sashimi station and a yakitori bar, along with crowd-pleasers like miso ramen and scallop katsu. The cocktails are a huge hit too, with various concoctions from yuzu and umeboshi. Jamun One of the most vibrant restaurants in Goa, with a long-standing well and a traditional Goan oven, Jamun serves Goan and Indian fare. Being a Delhi establishment, there's stellar butter chicken and kababs on the menu, but try modern Goan dishes like baked fish fillet with kokum and order a jamun sorbet to finish. Jamun is a seasonal Indian fruit with a distinct purplish-magenta hue, which is why you'll find the entire restaurant adorned with bursts of purple contrasted with deep terracotta. Back to index Best for walk-ins Kokni Kanteen The term Kokni refers to the region and culture of the west coast of India, particularly Goa, Maharashtra and Northern Karnataka. Owner Girish Desai converted an old inn into a no-frills eatery serving traditional Saraswat cuisine. There's antique paraphernalia from his home on the walls and the menu is handwritten on a blackboard. Expect a short wait, but you'll be given a token and can head back when your table is ready. The food lives up to the hype, particularly the hot and sour ambotik fish curry. Sai Family Restaurant and Bar Sai Family Restaurant and Bar is a friendly, laid-back seafood restaurant near Aldona ferry point, with an excellent seafood menu. It is one of those quintessential Goan spots where you head to with your friends when you're famished, as the portions are generous. The fish thali is one of the best in Goa, but don't miss the catch of the day, especially during lunch when it's relatively quiet. Ping's Bia Hoi There's al fresco dining and then there's Ping's – a leafy beer garden that serves superb Asian food, lagers and tiki cocktails, along with hosting live music and a flea market. Though their staples, like dim sum, Thai curries and khao suey are well-liked, their angry beef salad is unique, where sour, spicy and sweet notes confuse your taste buds. There are regular bar takeovers as well, so you may stumble upon some top-notch mixologists during their residency here. Cocoa Moga Bakehouse Away from the crowded streets in Parra, there's the delightful Cocoa Moga Bakehouse. In a relaxed garden space, enjoy their kombucha (brewed in-house), read a book or play board games. Owner Radhika Walke bakes outstanding Danish pastries, croissants and brioche buns every day and serves her bread with assorted dips. It is a great place to watch young Goan life unfold – you'll spot many of Goa's young entrepreneurs discussing ideas here. Back to index Best for light bites Grumps Over the years, many city-dwellers across India moved to Goa for a quieter life and better entrepreneurial opportunities. One such couple, who decided to give back to the community, are Agrini Satyarthi and Kartik Vasudeva – the duo opened Grumps by repurposing an old heritage property. The menu is an eclectic mix of Indian and South East Asian flavours. Pair the crowd favourite Stand By Me cocktail – tequila, guava, sumac and basil rum – with the juicy lamb krapao kebab. Juju A few minutes from Colva beach is Juju, a welcome addition to South Goa's dining scene, where an eccentric menu designed by chef Avinash Martins presents a contemporary twist on Indian food. The cocktail menu is designed by Evgenya Prazdnik and has all the classics, but you want to try the reimagined ones that are inspired by various parts of the country. Expect fun versions of familiar dishes, such as local Goan poi bread serving as a pizza base topped with bacon and onion jam and crème brûlée with apple jalebi for dessert. Back to index How we choose Every restaurant in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, who has visited to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets, from neighbourhood favourites to Michelin-starred restaurants – to best suit every type of traveller's taste – and consider the food, service, best tables, atmosphere and price in our recommendations. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up-to-date recommendations. About our expert Rashmi Narayan Having spent my childhood summers in India's famous seaside state – my father's birthplace – I am often escaping the chaos of London for some much-needed susegad, the Goan attitude towards leading a relaxed life.
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The perfect holiday in Goa, India's sun-soaked southern state
Think of India and the first image will likely be that of the Taj Mahal or one of Jaipur's grand palaces. But further south, consider Goa – a state that's unlike the rest of India, thanks to its charming 100-mile coastline, laid-back lifestyle, heritage mansions, unique Portuguese-influenced cuisine and verdant countryside. Goa is no stranger to international tourists, thanks to the influx of hippies in the Sixties and Seventies. Hollywood even made its mark here, with films, including The Bourne Supremacy and the lesser-known Roger Moore title The Sea Wolves being shot in the region. The international influence is deeply rooted among locals too, with many Goans bearing Portuguese – once the language of the elite and trade – names. Today, Goa retains its appeal as India's vibrant spiritual paradise. Beyond the sandy beaches, Goa's rich, eclectic past comes to life in the likes of Panjim's Latin Quarter, Fontainhas, where you walk past century-old bakeries, or, further east in Old Goa, home to the Basilica of Bom Jesus, a prominent Unesco-listed pilgrimage site. Here's how to explore. For more Goa inspiration, see our guides to the region's best hotels, restaurants, bars, beaches and things to do. In this guide: How to spend the perfect day Morning Choosing a place to base yourself in Goa can present a dilemma, as the north and south are distinctively different. Keeping Panjim (also known as Panaji), the capital, as your base, you can make short trips in both directions. Start with a walk in Fontainhas, Panjim's Latin Quarter – a charming neighbourhood dotted with old Portuguese, mustard-hued heritage homes, with bougainvillaea trees and terracotta-tiled rooftops. Note: Many display signs requesting visitors not to take photographs, to curb the number of visitors posing simply for social media. Through the labyrinth of narrow lanes, you'll come across kaleidoscopic murals and classic Goan tavernas, like Joseph Bar and century-old bakeries like Confeitaria 31 de Janeiro and Mr Baker 1922. Stop for breakfast at the former, where you can grab a Goan pork choris sandwich or one of the local cakes, such as dodol or bebinca, and dine al fresco on the patio. You may cross paths with poders – Goa's iconic bread sellers on bicycles, who carry an array of local bread in their baskets. Their distinct horn is well recognised across the state, and despite the rise in modern bakeries, these wood-fired breads are still popular in local households and restaurants.
Telegraph
2 hours ago
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The 20 best things to do in Goa
There's more to Goa's attractions than beaches. In fact, despite visiting primarily in the summer as a child, I was often taken on hikes with my father deep into the rainforests, past waterfalls, ancient temples and towering trees. It is a versatile state, with a sandy coastline hugged by the mighty Western Ghats. As one of the region's many festivals will showcase, it is the people who truly make Goa stand apart from the rest of India. Beyond their food and fantastic music scene, their art, architecture, adventure and wellness offerings all have elements of susegad – complete relaxation. All our recommendations below have been hand-selected and tested by our resident destination expert to help you discover the best things to do in Goa. Find out more below, or for more Goa inspiration, see our guides to the region's best hotels, restaurants, bars and beaches. Find things to do by type: Best for families Best free things to do Best for the great outdoors Best for culture Best for wellness Best for families Museum of Goa Explore Goa's contemporary art scene Fondly called MOG by locals, the Museum of Goa showcases the state's extensive contemporary art scene. Renowned Goan artist Subodh Kerkar, who founded the gallery, showcases why Goa is different to the rest of India. His expressions, especially Goa's Ark from his permanent exhibit, bring forward the deep-rooted Portuguese history and the complexities of inter-religious life. Insider tip: Allow at least two hours to explore the museum. It is worth booking a guided tour, which can be done upon is also a terrace, an outdoor garden with artworks and a restaurant serving Goan classics like ros omelette. Spice Farms Visit a local plantation Touring a spice plantation as a visitor is fascinating, as it gives an insight into Goa beyond its beaches. Learn the incredible details of the spices that grow in the region, like black pepper, nutmeg, cardamom and cloves. Most tours include walking through plantations within the state's rainforests and end with a traditional lunch. Insider tip: Choose a spice plantation tour that offers extras like accommodation, cookery lessons (especially Saraswat cuisine, which uses most of the spices grown). Some, like Dudhsagar Plantation, offer bird watching and dedicated activities for children, such as zip lining and rock climbing. Mario Miranda Gallery Flick through a cartoonist's gallery Many of us in India grew up admiring Mario Miranda's cartoons in national newspapers – he'd present readers with vivid and witty illustrations of everyday Goan life. He travelled the world and even worked with famous cartoonists like Charles M. Schulz and R.K. Laxman before retiring to his ancestral home in Goa. His galleries are scattered across Calangute, Porvorim and Margao, each offering unique souvenirs to take home. Insider tip: Set in an old Goan laterite home with an enchanting garden, the gallery in the bucolic village of Porvorim is the region's prettiest. Best free things to do Basilica of Bom Jesus Visit Goa's prominent pilgrimage site Old Goa is one of the state's most charming regions and was the capital under Portuguese rule. Ask any local what to see here and they'd point you in the direction of the Basilica of Bom Jesus, which is also a prominent pilgrimage site for Christians. This impressive church is built from granite and is famous for preserving the remains of St Francis Xavier, encased in a silver casket, who died in 1552. Insider tip: Expect heavy crowds from local tourists visiting the church between the end of December and early January. While you're here, walk across the gardens to visit other heritage structures, like Se Cathedral and Churches and Convents of Goa. Fontainhas Explore the Latin Quarters A stroll through Goa's charming Latin Quarters, Fontainhas, in the capital city of Panjim, is an excellent way to spend a day. You'll walk past many ornate Goan-Portuguese heritage homes, each painted in vivid hues of mustard, burgundy and ivory and nearly all cloaked under tropical trees and bougainvillaea climbers. The evenings here have a different energy – you'll see locals flocking to the tavernas and restaurants, but Fontainhas is best explored in the morning on a weekday. Insider tip: Fontainhas gets particularly lively during festivals like the annual Carnival, held in February ahead of Lent, and theSão João festival every June. Shops and restaurants open after 10am and close any time between 6pm and 11pm. Bakeries are ordinarily open between 8am to 8pm. Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Visit the region's Hollywood site This popular Baroque church façade has served as a backdrop for many Bollywood films and Goan postcards. Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church was the first port of call for sailors from Lisbon, who stopped to give thanks for a safe voyage across the seas. Many here believe that the stairways were modelled on a smaller scale after those at the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte in Braga, Portugal, with a central landing area and symmetrical stairways on either side. Insider tip: Dress codes are strict here (no sleeveless vests or shorts above the knee allowed inside), but its elegant white and blue façade is worth admiring from afar. The Ruins of the Church of St. Augustine Picture the region's abandoned church and monastery In 1602, Augustinian Friars, who had arrived on Goa's shores to spread Christianity in 1572, constructed this prominent church and monastery. Choosing Monte Santo (Holy Mount) as their site in Old Goa, it was largely considered one of the key churches in the Iberian world. After being abandoned in the 19 th century, at present, only a part of the belfry stands tall – the rest has fallen into ruin and disrepair. The original bell was transported to Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church. Insider tip: It is ideal to visit during sunrise or sunset, when the sun's rays over the laterite-hued ruins make for excellent photos. Anjuna Flea Market Shop for local crafts and clothing Anjuna's popular flea market is open every Wednesday between October and April. Shop quintessential bohemian wear, plus printed shirts, embroidered scarves, Goa trance music CDs, Indian handicrafts, spiritual paraphernalia and essential oils. What I love about the markets in Goa is that even if you don't buy anything, the vendors are still happy to have a chat with visitors. Insider tip: Further south, head to Mapusa market for similar paraphernalia but also excellent local cashews (Zantye is the oldest and most trusted shop to buy cashews). Mapusa is also famous for pottery, spices and Goan chorizo. Festivals Join the local celebration India does have the most kaleidoscopic festivals, but Goa is a world apart. There's Carnival held every February, which sees floats, samba and Goan trance music. Every March or April, the spring festival called Shigmo is held across the state, where various parades and folk dances are performed by members of the Hindu-Konkani community. This is followed by the São João festival in June, where many Christian Goans merrily drink copious amounts of feni and jump in wells wearing floral coronets. June also sees the farming community celebrate Chikhal Kalo, a mud bath festival. South Goa comes to life during Diwali in autumn. Insider tip: Despite festivals being celebrated throughout the year, December is the busiest time in Goa as it celebrates the Feast of St. Francis Xavier, Christmas Day and even Sunburn, an annual electronic dance music festival that attracts over300,000 visitors. Best for the great outdoors Chapora Fort Take in the famous view You might wonder why so many domestic tourists strike a pose upon the walls of this majestic laterite fort. It served as a backdrop for the famous Bollywood film, Dil Chahta Hai, released in the Noughties and has had a loyal fan base since. Don't let that dissuade you – the view overlooking the Arabian Sea meeting Chapora River is worth the short hike. This fort has been under the rule of the Marathas, the Portuguese and was the former site of the Sultanate of Bijapur. Insider tip: Head up here on a weekday morning to avoid crowds and if you still can't find a tranquil spot, head further south to impressive forts like Reis Magos, Aguada (fee payable on entry) or Cabo de Rama. Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary Head deep into a national park More than a sanctuary, this large wildlife reserve is a part of the Western Ghats. It's also home to the mighty Dudhsagar Waterfalls (see above) and Mollem National Park. As one of the top spots in Goa for bird watching, you'll easily spot some endemic species here like the state bird – the flame-throated bulbul, Malabar grey hornbill and the brahminy kite. If you're lucky, you'll also encounter leopards, elephants, cobras and pythons. Insider tip: Carry minimal items with you – hikes here can be tedious, and there are tribes of wild, curious monkeys that are notorious for snatching belongings from travellers. Deep in this national park, you can visit the 13th-century Kadamba-period Shiva temple, the oldest in the state. Dudhsagar Falls Trek to Goa's colossal waterfalls Nothing quite prepares you for the sheer magnificence of Dudhsagar Falls. Translating to 'a sea of milk' in Hindi, the Mandovi river comes cascading down four tiers, at 310 metres in height. Summers can be underwhelming as the falls aren't in their full, raw power, so the best time to experience them is in October after the heavy monsoon season. There are jeep safaris from Mollem National Park that you can hire for the day for a guided hike close to the falls. Be warned, it is a bumpy ride and a slightly demanding trek to the falls. If you want to spend a full day and night here, there are modest homestays nearby, such as Dudhsagar Plantation. Insider tip: For a cherished memory, head to the designated viewpoint (your guide will point this out to you) and wait for a train to pass along the railway bridge, with the colossal waterfalls in the backdrop. Divar Island Explore unspoilt Goa Take a break for half a day and catch a ferry to the island of Divar, an unspoilt part of Goa. You might even spot mugger crocodiles in the Mandovi River. Ferry boats operate (weather dependent) every 30 minutes from Old Goa, and the journey takes about 20 minutes. Don't miss the ornate Saptakoteshwar Temple, along with an ancient step well built by the Kadamba dynasty. Insider tip: The island is best explored on foot or by bicycle (permitted on the ferry). Back to index Best for culture Goa Chitra Museum Honour the region's agrarian life In the quaint, sleepy village of Benaulim is the Goa Chitra Museum, which labels itself as an ethnographic museum honouring Goa's agrarian life. Founder Victor Hugo Gomes observed how traditional tools in farming and cookery were fading from Goan lifestyles and decided to open this museum with a notable collection of more than 40,000 artefacts that he spent years collecting across the state. Insider tip: A guided tour is well worth it to understand Goa's rural life better. Combine this museum visit with a beach day at Benaulim Beach nearby. Menezes Braganza House Visit one of Goa's most opulent mansions A fine example of Goa's glorious, colossal mansions and Indo-Portuguese architecture is Braganza House in Chandor, South Goa. The aristocratic Braganza family was granted land by the king of Portugal in the 16 th century, with additions made over the years. Today, it is often used for wedding and fashion photo shoots as the opulence still stands; Portuguese ceramic tiles, oyster shell window panes, Belgian oak in the library, Italian marble and Venetian glass chandeliers in the ballrooms – and interestingly, a fingernail relic of St Francis Xavier in the chapel in the east wing. Insider tip: Pay a visit to the library in the West Wing, which belonged to notable journalist and activist Dr Luís de Menezes Braganza, who played a significant role in Goa's fight for independence from Portuguese rule. Sri Mangueshi Temple Take a moment in Goa's spiritual heart Goa's Saraswat Hindu community plays a significant role in the state. The exquisite Mangueshi Temple (also known as Mangeshi Temple), which is dedicated to Hindu God Shiva, was originally built in the village of Cortalim. After the arrival of the Portuguese, many locals were converted to Christianity, which resulted in the Shiva Linga (a symbolic representation of the deity) being moved and the temple being rebuilt in the village of Ponda. Today, the main temple is painted in hues of turquoise, white and ochre and is open to all. Its intricate seven-storey lamp tower is lit up every night. Insider tip: Dress codes are not strict here, but it is advisable to cover your shoulders and knees. Photography is allowed outside, but is best avoided in the main temple. Sunaparanta, Goa Centre for the Arts Learn about the cultural legacies of Goa On top of a hill in Altinho, Panjim, lies the pearly white, cerulean blue and red oxide colours of the property of Sunaparanta, Goa Centre for the Arts. Founders Dipti and Dattaraj V. Salgaocar opened this space to preserve and promote the artistic and cultural legacies of Goa through collections and rotating exhibits. Former residencies have seen national and international artists portray traditional and contemporary paintings and sculptures, along with regular art festivals and lectures in their amphitheatre. Insider tip: After exploring, stop by their al fresco café called Bodega, which serves an all-day breakfast. All About Alcohol Museum Delve into the story of feni, the drink of Goa In a dedicated space in Candolim, Goa's first alcohol museum is more insightful than it sounds. All About Alcohol dives into ancient methods of distilling, making and consuming Goan liquor, mainly feni, a traditional beverage made from either cashew apples or coconut palm sap. There's a feni cellar, plenty of feni artefacts, ranging from old glassware to labels, but what makes this collection by Nandan Kudchadkar interesting is realising how much feni is interwoven into Goan life. Insider tip: Book a guided tour, which includes a feni tasting at the beautiful wrought iron-clad bar. Contact: 0091 703 007 7013 Opening times: Monday-Sunday, 11am-9pm. Price: £ Centre for Indo-Portuguese Arts (CIPA) Watch local performances Learn about the state's enthralling art and architecture at the Centre for Indo-Portuguese Arts (CIPA) in Panjim. In this 200-year-old mansion, you'll find the fascinating history of the region's traditional art, music and gastronomy. CIPA regularly hosts shows from bygone eras, including re-enactments of Serenata, a practice in Panjim where it was common for Goan men to serenade women. You can also book a traditional fado and mandó show – Goan soulful melodious music accompanied by vocalists and local percussionists. Insider tip: All show tickets include food and drink. Be mindful that at times dietary requirements cannot be catered to. Best for wellness Yoga retreats Find balance in a traditional setting Goa has earned a solid reputation as one of India's best destinations for yoga retreats. Purple Valley was one of the first establishments where travellers could learn ashtanga yoga with their week-long workshops. Today, there are thousands of retreats (often by the beach or in the rainforests), combining yoga, ayurveda treatments and guided meditation to help those seeking recalibration, balance and a peek into traditional yogic philosophy. Insider tip: Many traditional yoga centres can be basic in terms of accommodation, and the focus is very much on the yoga rather than comfort. Some high-end tropical eco retreats by Ashiyana are perfect for combining yoga and rejuvenation in a heavenly property (between October and April). How we choose Every attraction and activity in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets and styles, from world-class museums to family-friendly theme parks – to best suit every type of traveller. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations. About our expert Rashmi Narayan Having spent my childhood summers in India's famous seaside state – my father's birthplace – I am often escaping the chaos of London for some much-needed susegad, the Goan attitude towards leading a relaxed life.
