Africa's Dandy legacy - From migrant workers to Sunday best
If you've been paying attention to fashion, you've likely heard of Dandyism – a style movement making bold statements in tailored silhouettes and cultural storytelling.
While the term isn't entirely new, it sparked renewed interest after the 2025 Met Gala, themed 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style', a tribute to the elegance of Black Dandies.
Though The Met drew inspiration from old-school Atlanta, the true roots of Dandyism are deeply embedded in African fashion history. One key origin point is South Africa in the 1970s, where Zulu migrant workers used sharply tailored, colourful outfits to challenge apartheid-era ideas of Black masculinity. The look – similar to 'Sunday best' – was more than fashion, it was resistance.
Groups like the Swenkas, often referred to today as part of the Nkabi drip, embodied this rebellion. Their flair is finally being appreciated, as more people explore the links between style, identity and African subcultures.
To explore this legacy, we spoke to fashion designer Mzukisi Mbane, founder of Imprint ZA, a brand rooted in Afro-Futurism and Pan-African storytelling.
'Dandism, for me, is about our ability to express ourselves,' Mzukisi explains. 'It goes beyond clothing – it's a language that tells our stories and reflects the political and social realities we face.'
He recalls the vibrant, expressive fashion of 1950s Sophiatown, where colour, texture and tailoring were tools of self-expression. Mzukisi cites icons like Nelson Mandela, Winnie Mandela and Sol Plaatje as early inspirations.
'My biggest takeaway from Dandy style is the importance of fine tailoring,' he says. 'My mom used to sew at home and watching her –from fabric selection to final fit – shaped my love for fashion.'
African fashion has long influenced global runways, though recognition often lagged behind. Today, African designers are finally being included in the global conversation.
'African styles have always been present on the world stage,' he says. 'But now, African designers and subcultures are being credited. Our stories are being told by us.'
He points to moments like Marc Jacobs' SS2002 collection, which featured Shweshwe prints, and Louis Vuitton's 2012 use of Maasai fabric, which sparked debate about cultural appropriation.
When asked which designers champion the dandy aesthetic best, Mzukisi's answer is personal.
'I might be biased, but I'd have to say Imprint South Africa. That's what our brand ethos is all about – celebrating glamour and telling the stories of our African ancestors using prints, fabrics, and history,' he says. 'Our motto is simple: 'Leave a mark.''
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If he were to style the ultimate African Dandy look today?
'I'd challenge traditional ideas of gender and masculinity – something bold, beautiful and unapologetic in a world that doesn't always welcome that kind of expression.'
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