A fashion legacy: How Studio HHFZ brings soul to bespoke garments

Vogue Singapore

2 days ago

Studio HHFZ began as a quiet passion project by designer Hu Ruixian, who fell in love with the art of dressmaking during her fashion studies. Today, the label specialises in bespoke bridalwear shaped by Singapore's layered identity. Hu's designs reflect the intimate stories of her clients—from cross-cultural weddings to everyday moments worth celebrating. Much of the label's growth has come through word of mouth, a reminder of the care and thought put into every design. Studio HHFZ is known for thoughtful touches like reimagined mandarin collars and subtle heritage nods, balancing familiar silhouettes with the needs of today's style sensibilities and even climate, creating meaningful garments that endure. Melding the traditional elements of the cheongsam with a modern silhouette fit for today, this ensemble illustrates the label's fresh take on heritage designs.
How did you start your journey into fashion? What sparked your entry and what continues to drive your work today?
Since I was young, I knew I wanted to be a fashion designer. I worked my way up to earning a diploma in Fashion Design and Merchandising at Temasek Poly. That's where I fell in love with the art of dressmaking. It's truly the satisfaction of transforming an idea into a finished garment that motivated me to start my own studio. It's been 7 years since I launched Studio HHFZ, and I am incredibly grateful for the clients who entrust us with dressing them—from wedding days to Lunar New Year celebrations, and even just for workdays. These connections and relationships with each individual inspire my work because everyone's style and requirements are unique.
What are the biggest challenges you've faced as a designer in Singapore and how have they shaped your creative direction?
I think getting the public to recognise the value of bespoke services has been a challenging journey for me, and unfortunately, it remains an ongoing struggle. We're often told that our pricing is 'too expensive,' but people don't always see the amount of effort involved. It's not only hard work but heart work. When I encounter such hesitations, I make a point to break down the entire process—ideation, drafting, pattern cutting, sewing, fitting, and hand stitching of the finishing touches. Transparency is key, and clients understand exactly where their money is going. I hope that, ultimately, people see how much time and effort it takes to craft just one dress. A bespoke Chinese-Vietnamese fusion-inspired piece for the bride, featuring a flowy, detachable train @bridelopeproductions
How does Singaporean culture shape your designs and how has your work evolved over the years?
Our Singaporean culture, heritage, and way of life have a strong influence on our designs. I'd say the majority of our pieces are made for brides, and with the growing number of mixed-race marriages—something very reflective of the Singaporean identity—our work often celebrates this diversity. The whole point of creating a bespoke dress is to offer something deeply personal, which is why blending elements from different cultures has become our forte. Over the years, people have also become more experimental, giving Studio HHFZ the opportunity to explore different techniques and fabrics. It's been such a fun and fulfilling journey!
What does 'home' mean to you and how does it influence your creative process?
As cliché as it sounds, I've always believed in the phrase, 'Home is where the heart is.' That's exactly how I feel about my brand—it's my heart work, and where we create our dresses (a humble studio at King George's Ave) is where my heart truly lies. It's also the place where I can let my ideas run wild. Hopefully, that's how people see our brand too: as a passionate and creative force.
In what ways do you see your work contributing to Singapore's design heritage?
I do hope that many of the pieces we create contribute to our cultural and design heritage, even though I can honestly say that creating a legacy isn't something I actively think about. But perhaps, years down the road, when people look back at Singaporean wedding ceremonies, there'll be glimpses or references to the bridal dresses we've made—maybe even pieces that have become heirlooms, passed down from one generation to the next.
'We see each piece we create as something meant to last—an enduring design that won't go out of style.'
Do you think about legacy when creating collections? How do you navigate heritage and modernity?
I don't really see it as a tension, but rather a synergy—both elements working hand in hand. We're always exploring new ideas and materials, but at the same time, we like to keep things classic. We see each piece we create as something meant to last—an enduring design that won't go out of style.
How do you preserve traditional elements while making them relevant for today?
The thing about fashion is that it's always evolving—and so are our skills and craftsmanship. Not every piece we create sticks strictly to traditional elements, but when a design calls for it, we do our best to respect how it was originally done, while making thoughtful adjustments to suit the wearer. Take the mandarin collar, for example. It's quite different from how it was made in the past. To honour the traditional shape, we retain its silhouette but lower the height slightly to make it more breathable and comfortable, especially in our humid climate. Using glass beads on the collar to craft the bride's favourite flower—the bird of paradise—a nod to her Peranakan heritage. @jae.chia.photography
Do you think fashion can be a form of cultural storytelling in Singapore?
Yes, why not! Fashion is a form of art, and it's definitely a powerful medium to tell our Singaporean story. Beyond the love stories I've mentioned, I hope my designs also reflect how diverse Singapore is. And that even though life here moves at a fast pace, we still appreciate moments of slow living when we can. And we have such a vibrant and interesting creative industry—that's something I'm proud to be part of.
If your design ethos were a Singaporean dish, what would it be and why?
Rojak! It's the perfect blend of different flavours you'd never expect to go so well together—refreshing and simply delightful to have!
Vogue Singapore's July/August 'Home' issue is out on newsstands now and available to order online.