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My French-born husband taught me the real way to experience France — slow, immersive, and away from big cities

My French-born husband taught me the real way to experience France — slow, immersive, and away from big cities

I used to travel to France as a tourist, but now I go there because I married into a French family.
It has been rewarding to go beyond Paris and visit different regions in France in recent years.
I've discovered hidden culinary gems and authentic experiences far from the usual tourist trail.
My vacations in France were very different before I met my French-born husband.
I was a typical tourist: I stayed in the heart of Paris, ate croissants, and visited must-see attractions during the busy summer months.
I always followed a guidebook, and had a packed schedule because I thought it was the only way to ensure I wasn't missing out on anything.
But now that I'm married into a French family, my vacations in France have changed.
I've realized taking a different approach to travel, and slowing down, can actually lead to richer, more fulfilling experiences.
It's been rewarding to go beyond Paris
When my husband and I visit France, we never stay in Paris.
The Eiffel Tower is now just another landmark I see through the car window on our way out of Paris from the airport.
Instead, trips to France are spent visiting our family and friends, attending weddings, or taking vacations in different parts of the country.
These days, I prefer visiting smaller French towns and villages, which are usually nestled in beautiful landscapes, because they're quieter and more relaxing.
Toulouse has become my favorite city because of its beautiful city center with terracotta brick buildings, pretty parks and gardens, and walking tracks along the Garonne River. It's not even a place that was on my radar before I met my husband.
I've found joy in authentic experiences and regional food
With my French family, I have experienced France's regions by foot, from wandering through towns and local forests, to exploring hiking trails.
The Pic Saint-Loup hiking trail, which is a short drive from Montpellier, is my favorite walk because of its very rewarding 360-degree view at the summit.
I've visited castles with less crowds compared to the more famous French castles like Château de Chambord and Château de Chenonceau. For example, I recently enjoyed visiting the very elegant Château de Rambouillet, which is less than an hour from Paris.
Since traveling around France six times, I have a greater appreciation of the country's diverse regional cuisines, and I've very happily tried many of them. I've discovered that dining in local restaurants, away from tourist areas, provides a more authentic experience. And I've learned that shopping at farmer's markets, bakeries, and delis is the best way to try lots of different types of delicious regional food.
I now enjoy a slower, more immersive pace
My vacations in France nowadays aren't about ticking off a list of sights, but they're about having more immersive experiences over a longer period of time. Most of our trips last for 14 days or more.
It's by slowing down that I have an enriched understanding of daily French life. France now feels like a home away from home and I feel a greater sense of belonging compared to when I was a tourist.
These days, I bring home gourmet food items or specialty French baking trays, instead of Eiffel Tower key chains. And I'll happily go there any time of the year rather than just during the busy summer months.
But there is one thing which hasn't changed when I vacation in France. I still eat lots of croissants, because they're much better than the ones back home.
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I've been to bachelorette parties in spots from Hawaii to Las Vegas, but a Canadian city has been the best destination so far
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I've been to bachelorette parties in spots from Hawaii to Las Vegas, but a Canadian city has been the best destination so far

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The Seine in Paris is open for swimming. Residents embrace it as temperatures soar

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The Seine in Paris is open for swimming. Residents embrace it as temperatures soar

PARIS -- Swimming in the Seine is an increasingly popular tourist attraction in the French capital — and a must-do for Parisians themselves. Thousands of people have enjoyed a dip in the river since three public bathing sites opened last month, the first in over a century. The swimming areas are expected to get even more crowded as a heatwave arrives in the region on Tuesday. Paris has been placed under 'high vigilance' by national weather service Meteo France, with temperatures up to 38 degrees Celsius (100 Fahrenheit) expected. At the Grenelle site in the west of Paris, visitors swim and sunbathe with a unique view of the Eiffel Tower, with small fishes darting near the surface. Water quality is tested daily to conform with European regulations. Swimming in the Seine had been illegal since 1923, with a few exceptions, due to pollution and risks posed by river navigation. The new bathing sites are possible following a 1.4 billion euro ($1.6 billion) cleanup that made it suitable for Olympic competitions last year. 'Imagine that,' said Constanze Martens, a tourist from Mexico. 'Swimming with view of the Eiffel Tower and in pure natural water, clean, safe, and with all this lovely people too, you have every age here." On Monday, the water temperature in the Seine was 22 degrees Celsius (71 Fahrenheit). 'It's quite warm, warmer than the sea, which was quite surprising, and is very pleasant,' said Elisabeth Lorin, from the Paris eastern suburb of Montreuil. Until the end of August, bathing sites are open for free at scheduled times to anyone 10 or older or 14 or older, depending on the location. Details are in the Paris city hall website, in English as well. Each swimmer must be equipped with a yellow buoy, attached to their waist, for safety reasons. There are changing rooms with lockers. The site welcomes between 800 and 1,200 visitors per day, with a limit of 200 at any one time, said the manager of the Grenelle site, Yann Forêt. Paris Deputy Mayor Pierre Rabadan last week said over 40,000 people had swum at the sites since they opened on July 5. That's despite almost two weeks of closures largely due to rainy weather, which increases water pollution upstream. 'Right now, the water quality is excellent and we have optimal conditions with warm weather,' Rabadan told The Associated Press on Monday. He said the daily decision to open the sites depends on weather conditions and factors including water flow rate and any known pollution. Several lifeguards monitor the sites, occasionally using their whistles to remind swimmers not to jump or leave the perimeter. No major incident has been reported, Rabadan said. Marina Gicquel, a 22-year-old lifeguard at Grenelle, said the main difference from a swimming pool is the river current, along with the murky water. 'You can only see people's heads sticking out. That's why buoys are useful,' Gicquel said. "And it's also quite deep. It's three to five meters (10 to 16 feet) deep, so people find no foothold.' Some visitors, like Australian Thurkka Jeyakumar, had been skeptical about swimming in the Seine, citing the river's murky color and bacteria issues. Unsafe levels of E. coli or other bacteria appear during prolonged periods of rain that overwhelm pipes, leading untreated wastewater to flow into the river instead of a treatment plant. Last year, some Olympic competitions were postponed for that reason. In the end, Jeyakumar gave it a try because she lost a bet.

The Seine in Paris is open for swimming. Tourists and residents embrace it as temperatures soar
The Seine in Paris is open for swimming. Tourists and residents embrace it as temperatures soar

San Francisco Chronicle​

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The Seine in Paris is open for swimming. Tourists and residents embrace it as temperatures soar

PARIS (AP) — Swimming in the Seine is an increasingly popular tourist attraction in the French capital — and a must-do for Parisians themselves. Thousands of people have enjoyed a dip in the river since three public bathing sites opened last month, the first in over a century. The swimming areas are expected to get even more crowded as a heatwave arrives in the region on Tuesday. Paris has been placed under 'high vigilance' by national weather service Meteo France, with temperatures up to 38 degrees Celsius (100 Fahrenheit) expected. At the Grenelle site in the west of Paris, visitors swim and sunbathe with a unique view of the Eiffel Tower, with small fishes darting near the surface. Water quality is tested daily to conform with European regulations. Swimming in the Seine had been illegal since 1923, with a few exceptions, due to pollution and risks posed by river navigation. The new bathing sites are possible following a 1.4 billion euro ($1.6 billion) cleanup that made it suitable for Olympic competitions last year. 'Imagine that,' said Constanze Martens, a tourist from Mexico. 'Swimming with view of the Eiffel Tower and in pure natural water, clean, safe, and with all this lovely people too, you have every age here." On Monday, the water temperature in the Seine was 22 degrees Celsius (71 Fahrenheit). 'It's quite warm, warmer than the sea, which was quite surprising, and is very pleasant,' said Elisabeth Lorin, from the Paris eastern suburb of Montreuil. Until the end of August, bathing sites are open for free at scheduled times to anyone 10 or older or 14 or older, depending on the location. Details are in the Paris city hall website, in English as well. Each swimmer must be equipped with a yellow buoy, attached to their waist, for safety reasons. There are changing rooms with lockers. The site welcomes between 800 and 1,200 visitors per day, with a limit of 200 at any one time, said the manager of the Grenelle site, Yann Forêt. Paris Deputy Mayor Pierre Rabadan last week said over 40,000 people had swum at the sites since they opened on July 5. That's despite almost two weeks of closures largely due to rainy weather, which increases water pollution upstream. 'Right now, the water quality is excellent and we have optimal conditions with warm weather,' Rabadan told The Associated Press on Monday. He said the daily decision to open the sites depends on weather conditions and factors including water flow rate and any known pollution. Several lifeguards monitor the sites, occasionally using their whistles to remind swimmers not to jump or leave the perimeter. No major incident has been reported, Rabadan said. Marina Gicquel, a 22-year-old lifeguard at Grenelle, said the main difference from a swimming pool is the river current, along with the murky water. 'You can only see people's heads sticking out. That's why buoys are useful,' Gicquel said. "And it's also quite deep. It's three to five meters (10 to 16 feet) deep, so people find no foothold.' Some visitors, like Australian Thurkka Jeyakumar, had been skeptical about swimming in the Seine, citing the river's murky color and bacteria issues. Unsafe levels of E. coli or other bacteria appear during prolonged periods of rain that overwhelm pipes, leading untreated wastewater to flow into the river instead of a treatment plant. Last year, some Olympic competitions were postponed for that reason.

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