A look at the Fervor in Bengaluru, chef Aditya Varma's new European-inspired restaurant
Something is cooking in Kalyan Nagar, Bengaluru. This is the second restaurant opening in the past few weeks in the area. Fervor is a new 36-seater contemporary restaurant. Started by chef Aditya Varma, the restaurant is a passion project. After working in Michelin kitchens in Toronto, this is his first venture in Bengaluru, his hometown. He is bringing French and European techniques and dishes to Bengaluru, in his own style.
At the heart of Fervor is the open kitchen. The deep green and teal walls brighten up the place, and the art deco-style lighting fixtures give it a warmth. Accents of wood add a vintage touch. You can sit at the bar counter, or like me, take a seat by the window. I visit on a Thursday evening (they are only open for dinner now) and there is quite a crowd.
Cultured butter and hot sauce
The menu is short, just two pages, with starters, sharing plates, mains and dessert. Homemade sourdough is brought to the table. It is served with a cultured yeast butter which I love.
We start with fried chicken. It is crisp and topped with furikake (a Japanese condiment made of dried fish, sesame seeds and seaweed flakes), scallions and chopped lollo rosso (red lettuce). You can wrap the chicken in the leaves and have it as little parcels too. What steals the show, however, is the sauce it is served with. The bright, spicy sauce is made of scotch bonnet chillies that have been soaked in brine for 25 days. Other starters include the tuna crudo (an Italian style raw fish), and the octopus and glazed pork, served with charred lemons and capers.
French flair
We have two mains, the Parisienne gnocchi and the asparagus. The in-house made gnocchi is pillowy and has a bite to it. It is topped with crispy sunchokes (a tuber) and brown butter crumbs. The sauce is a classic beurre blanc, a French emulsified white butter sauce. Parmesan cheese brings it all together.
The asparagus is blanched and stir fried in a white soy and lemon sauce. It is served on a bed of ricotta and topped with bits of fried garlic. I am not too pleased with the texture, as I prefer the vegetables to be al dente. But the topping and sauces make up for it. I am told the other popular choices in mains are the duck with sauerkraut and potato Dauphinoise, and the beef steak with a Raifort sauce (a tangy and creamy sauce made with horseradish).
I end my meal with a chocolate mousse. It is a creamy silky smooth swirl. The textures are balanced with bites of nougat. This is a sweet one, so make sure to go with a dessert lover.
The pricing is on the higher side. The chef and kitchen is a little green, but with experience and a bit of polish, Fervor can go a long way. Full marks for ambience and hospitality.
₹3,000 plus taxes for two. At Kalyan Nagar. For more details, call 8310632159
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