Langkawi beyond the beach: New and enduring adventures on one of Malaysia's best island destinations
Every time I visit Malaysia I make sure to escape for a few days to Langkawi, a paradise bolthole of palm-fringed sandy beaches, tropical mangroves and 500 million year-old rainforest. With its idyllic archipelago of tiny islands rising out of the Andaman Sea, this destination is one of those rare getaways that remains unspoilt and under the radar of mass tourism. Instead, the island attracts curious independent travellers attracted by its fantastic wildlife, innovative sustainable initiatives, arts and literary festivals, and outdoor activities that range from a 2,500-competitor Ironman contest to exclusive sailing regattas. In 2025, Langkawi looks set to boost its global reputation, with filming of the BBC series adaptation of William Golding's novel Lord Of The Flies under way. For travellers there are also plenty of new attractions, as I found out on my latest visit. Resisting the temptation to laze on the beach, I instead head straight for Pantai Rhu where local sports outfit H2Ocean rents out kayaks, paddle boards and catamaran bikes. These are perfect for exploring the surrounding coast's deserted beaches, hidden caves and mangrove forest without leaving a carbon footprint. Countless local boat operators also offer tours out to the tiny islets of Langkawi's archipelago, especially to Pulau Dayang Bunting – Pregnant Maiden Island – and its spectacular lake, but the trips can get busy. Another way to explore the islands is offered by Hussein Mohd Said, originally from Kuala Lumpur, who runs water sports company Mega Water Sports. It has a fleet of about 200 jet skis, and organises two-hour guided excursions to secluded islands and beaches. As the sun sets, a taxi takes me from my hotel to the centre of the island to visit Dream Forest, the biggest attraction to have opened in Langkawi since my last trip here. This rainforest night walk invites travellers to explore a fantasy world of giants, warriors and mythical creatures, created by colourful illuminations, projection mapping, music and dance. The must-do experience, it is a unique attraction that also adds some exciting nightlife options to a destination not known for it. Impressively, it was created within the forest environment without cutting down a single tree. When it comes to eating out, Langkawi is still on the slow road of post-Covid recovery with few new locations to speak of. But the street food scene is booming in traditional night markets, where travellers can indulge at scores of stalls in a different village each night of the week. On a Tuesday in Kedawang, the market is a seething mix of locals and tourists feasting on generous plates of fried noodles, spicy papaya salad, satay sticks, and fiery beef and chicken curries. Over on Pantai Tengah, there is an important address that gourmet tourists will want to visit: Chinese restaurant Orkid Ria which recently reopened after being closed for more than four years. A favourite with locals and tourists alike, the owners have built a palatial new locale with verdant landscaping, modern architecture, live music, and the freshest, most delicious locally-sourced seafood you have ever tasted – giant tiger and mantis prawns, mud and soft-shell crabs, lobster, grouper and pomfret. Next morning, as I drive around Langkawi it is clear that the hotel scene is lively right now. There is a buzzing backpacker and budget scene at the two main beach resorts, Pantai Cenang and Pantai Tengah, while luxury travellers are tempted by the island's renowned international resorts. This year, Hilton Burau Bay Resort Langkawi will provide more choice in this market, opening along on the western coast. For now, Four Seasons Langkawi remains the most desirable hotel, and added two renovated bedroom beach villas last year and a new restaurant. Hava is the place to go to sample a gourmet menu of Indian dishes such as delicate Kashmiri gucci shorba soup of morel mushrooms with saffron, or tandoori samundri ratan, chargrilled locally-fished lobster and succulent river prawns, all the work of Himalayan-born chef Barwan. The hotel is a short boat ride away from a maze of steamy mangroves, part of Langkawi's famed Unesco GeoPark. I have taken this excursion many times, but today the nature guide puts much more emphasis on educating us not just on the wonders of the flora and fauna, but also travellers' collective eco-responsibilities, including respecting the natural environment by not feeding the greedy monkeys and swooping sea eagles that have been spoilt by tour groups thoughtlessly throwing them food to get souvenir photos. Over at The Datai, Langkawi's most exclusive retreat, there are also new sustainable projects including a craft workshop, surrounded by dense jungle, that is dedicated to upcycling, where guests learn to create everything from candles, soap, jewellery and bags out of recycled rubbish. This year, The Datai's innovative Chef Series will bring some of the world's most celebrated chefs to Langkawi to cook in the hotel's kitchen. Exclusive dinners will be prepared by the likes of Ana Ros from three Michelin-starred Hisa Franko in Slovenia and Jordi Artal of Cinc Sentits, a two Michelin-star restaurant in Barcelona. Visitors seeking to stay in a Malay stilt house can still find this at Bon Ton, Langkawi's pioneering boutique heritage property, where owner Narelle McMurtrie has also introduced new attractions. These include a boutique of Malaysian designer Ehka's sought-after upcycled bracelets, necklaces and handbags, a dedicated children's atelier and Copycat Cafe, dedicated to cat-lovers, where purchases go towards supporting animal welfare work on the island. For travellers seeking the ultimate hideaway, Langkawi boasts what for me is one of the most distinctive glamping concepts, Coconest. This eco-friendly, coconut-shaped pod floats just offshore, accessible by boat from Tanjung Rhu jetty. It is the brainchild of two local architects and won a 2022 Airbnb competition for creative holiday rental proposals. The solar-powered retreat is expanding in 2025 with additional pods, a new cafe, and a hangout space, making now the best time to go and sleep under the stars on the Andaman Sea.
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