Should your sneakers look chunky or sleek? What fashion week says
There was a time when sneakers didn't just walk into a room — they stormed in. Super-sized soles, exaggerated forms, and unapologetically loud designs turned sidewalks into runways and feet into fashion billboards.
If your shoes didn't weigh two kilos and demand a triple take, were you even flexing?
Balenciaga's Triple S kicked off the seismic shift, Versace's Chain Reaction brought Greco-Roman bravado to streetwear, Louis Vuitton's Pharell-era LV Trainers looked like they came straight out of a sci-fi sequel, and Balmain's Unicorn sneakers might as well have been prototypes from a galactic fashion lab — part-sneaker, part-spaceship, and all statement. But just as the volume peaked, fashion — as it always does — changed course. Quietly, intentionally, and with the sort of elegance that doesn't need to shout.
A quick glance at the front row of fashion week or a scroll through Instagram's most style-savvy feeds reveal it all: the sneaker game has shed its bulk. Sleek, minimalist silhouettes are dominating.
The once-loud, maximalist aesthetic has been softened into something more refined, elegant, and — dare we say — feminine. Not in a gendered sense, but in terms of design language: delicate lines, softer forms, and lithe profiles are replacing the hulking shapes of seasons past.
Miu Miu's collaboration with New Balance is perhaps the most iconic symbol of this shift. Reworking the 530 into something that felt like part-sneaker, part-ballerina slipper, they injected subversive femininity and ballet-flat grace into a world that once equated size with power.
Loewe followed closely, with its Flow Runner and Ballet Runner models that marry featherlight construction with high-craft detailing, signaling that the new flex is quiet and considered.
Even Balenciaga — the very house that led the charge into sneaker maximalism — has scaled back with its Monday sneakers. Sleek, almost modest, the silhouette stands in stark contrast to the behemoth Triple S.
Where once there was aggressive bulk and oversized branding, there's now restraint. The same holds true across the luxury landscape. The likes of Dior, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton are all slimming down, creating silhouettes that aren't about stomping through the streets but gliding through them.
This shift is more than just aesthetic. It's philosophical. Post-pandemic, there's growing consumer appetite for mindfulness, versatility, and timelessness. A sleek sneaker doesn't scream trend — it signals taste. It's a staple, not a seasonal impulse. And with the return of Y2K fashion, this makes perfect sense. The early 2000s weren't defined by mega soles; they celebrated minimalism. Slim, low-rise sneakers ruled the playground — and now, they're back and ruling the pavements.
One name has re-emerged as the face of this return: adidas Samba. A shoe once confined to the shadows of football fields and forgotten closets, the Samba is now the epitome of effortless cool. Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and a slew of other street-style icons have cemented its place in the current fashion canon. But what really set it off was the Wales Bonner collaboration. British designer Grace Wales Bonner has reimagined the adidas Samba with Afro-Caribbean influences and refined detailing — creating editions that sell out instantly and command high resale value.
This broader move towards sleeker sneakers is also a reflection of the 'quiet luxury' moment sweeping through fashion. While loud logos and overt branding still have their place, there's a growing appreciation for the understated. Hermès has long mastered this with its Day Sneakers — crafted in premium leather with minimal embellishments. They whisper wealth. Louis Vuitton's Sneakerinas push this sensibility further. These hybrid ballet-sneakers exude couture-level elegance while maintaining sporty roots. Bottega Veneta, with its Orbit sneakers, has created a design that feels like a study in modern architecture — futuristic, featherlight, and devoid of all excess. They're sneakers for those who don't need to prove anything, because they already know.
Even Dior's sneaker playbook is evolving. Once known for bolder silhouettes like the B22, the maison has pivoted to models like the B27, the flatter and sleeker B33, and more recently, the B01 Match Sneaker — a tennis-inspired low-top that oozes minimalism and monochromatic finesse. It's luxe, lean, and utterly wearable. In similar fashion, brands like Loro Piana — long known for their whisper-soft cashmeres and walk-on-cloud sensibility — are now reaping the rewards of never having followed the chunky sneaker trend in the first place. Their 360 Flexy Walk and Week-End Walk models are having a quiet moment with a whole new generation of buyers. The rise of slim silhouettes has made Loro Piana, suddenly, feel ahead of the curve — without ever changing their pace.
What unites these designs is a shift in luxury itself — from showy and immediate to thoughtful and enduring. And, just as importantly, they're far more wearable. Chunky sneakers, as bold as they were, demanded attention and very specific styling. Sleek sneakers? They're democratic.
What unites these designs is a shift in luxury itself — from showy and immediate to thoughtful and enduring. And, just as importantly, they're far more wearable. Chunky sneakers, as bold as they were, demanded attention and very specific styling. Sleek sneakers? They're democratic. They slide under slim tailoring, elevate dresses, work with jeans, and feel equally at home in an airport lounge or a gallery opening.
This evolution also reflects a maturation of sneaker culture itself. New-age sneaker enthusiasts are older, wiser, and more discerning. They still value drops and collaborations, but they're now looking for craftsmanship, sustainability, and wearability. Brands are responding with recycled materials, refined lines, and silhouettes that are not only fashion-forward but also environmentally and socially conscious.
It's no surprise then that archival models are being dusted off and redesigned. From Reebok's Club C to Nike's Killshot and Puma's Speedcat, the spotlight is now on sleek classics that can be reintroduced with purpose. Even performance brands like On Running are betting big on minimalism, merging Swiss engineering with city style. It's a sign of the times — the age of visual noise is making space for visual clarity.
In fashion, every shift tells a story. The oversized sneaker era was about rebellion, irreverence, and irony. But this new era of slim silhouettes is about evolution, intention, and identity. It's not about taking up space anymore — it's about fitting perfectly into your world. So no, the chunky sneaker isn't dead. It's just been asked to take a breather while its leaner cousin takes centre stage. Sleek is in, and it's here to stay.
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