Alternative Iceland—5 lesser-known places in the land of fire and ice
An otherworldly island on the edge of the Arctic Circle, Iceland weaves towering landscapes and geological phenomena with a mythical past and distinct culture — making it a hotspot for travellers eager for adventure. But get beyond Reykjavík and the well-trodden Golden Circle, and there are plenty of quieter spots to explore. Along with volcanoes and glaciers, expect black-sand beaches studded with iceberg shards, mossy lava fields and gentle pastures grazed by shaggy Icelandic ponies. From whales and waterfalls in the north, to Europe's biggest glacier in the south, here are some of the best off-the-beaten-track destinations to discover in Iceland.
Centered amongst a landscape of lava fields, wetlands and hot springs near Iceland's second city, Akureyri, Lake Mývatn formed as the result of a volcanic eruption and is fringed with distinct dark columns of lava. Nordic legend has it these lava pillars mark the entrance to Hell. This part of northern Iceland is packed with jaw-dropping sights, and just an hour from Mývatn, you'll also find one of Europe's most powerful waterfalls: Dettifoss. Amid the mist, watch on as grey-white-water runs along a 100-metre-wide canyon and thunders below, as seen in the 2012 science-fiction horror film Prometheus,
Don't Miss: Mývatn Nature Baths is northern Iceland's answer to the Blue Lagoon — a splash of pure blue in the volcanic landscape, near to the sulphurous bubbling mud pots of Hverir.
Also known as Tröllaskagi, this peninsula in northern Iceland is thought to take its name from its mammoth mountains. which according to local folklore, resemble trolls frozen in stone. In winter, its peaks are a prime location for skiing and snowmobiling, while in summer, navigating the fjord by sea kayak gives visitors the chance to spot puffins along the cliffs, curious seals in the water and — if you're lucky — whales in the distance. The peninsula's astonishingly beautiful fjordside road offers an epic drive past fishing villages and waterfalls, and through mountain tunnels to the most populated town, Siglufjörður; once Iceland's herring capital and now a center for folk music.
Don't miss: For a remote — yet luxurious — stay, check in to Deplar Farm, an award-winning adventure hotel set in a converted 15th-century sheep farm. Expert guides will help you delve into the area's highlights, while geothermal pools await your return.
Another well-kept secret, Vestmannaeyjar, or the Westman Islands, lies off Iceland's south coast and comprises 15 islands and 30 skerries. Stay in the only inhabited island, Heimaey, where you can hike the rust-hued volcanic landscapes, or take a 4WD tour for a more rugged experience. At a slower pace, visit the Eldheimar Museum to learn about the 1973 eruption of Mount Eldfell — an active volcano that looms over the island. In the summer, Vestmannaeyjar is home to more puffins than people. Puffling season is in August, when baby puffins are ready to leave their burrows and set off ahead of winter.
Don't miss: Take a boat tour to see the world's largest nesting puffin population. There are estimated to be over a million tiny, clumsy and clownish black-and-white birds on this archipelago alone.
In the south east of the country, the scenic Hornafjörður fjord juts out towards the Atlantic, and on its tip lies the harbour town of Höfn. Known for its seafood, it's also the access point to Vatnajökull National Park. Covering around 14% of the country's total area, it's Iceland's most expansive national park and a site of natural and cultural significance. A place where fire and ice truly come together, it is awash with volcanic scenery and dotted with glacier-shaped landscape. This includes Vatnajökull glacier — Europe's biggest ice cap — a prime destination for exploring. Many visitors gravitate towards the vast glacial lagoon of Jökulsárlón, but there are hiking routes across the national park that offer views of icebergs, black-sand beaches and white-capped mountains — which visitors often have all to themselves.
Don't miss: To appreciate the National Park's sheer size and sites, a helicopter provides an eagle's-eye view of the glacier and the endless volcanic landscapes below. Ad Astra Travel can organise a private helicopter tour as part of a bespoke travel itinerary.
Most of Iceland's population centres lie around the edge of the island, making the sparsely populated crests and valleys of the central highlands irresistible for intrepid travellers. A 4WD is essential to take on the trails, which lead to incredible multicoloured rhyolite mountains that look like they've been drawn with oil pastels. To the south of this lesser-visited region lies Landmannalaugar, home to a natural hot spring where geothermally heated water pours into a wide basin from a mountain stream. The highlands are at their most accessible in the summer, though even then, certain routes will require a specially modified vehicle and a guide.
Don't miss: Tucked among the vivid landscapes of the Kerlingarfjöll mountains is Hveradalir, which translates to 'valley of the hot springs'. One of Iceland's most expansive geothermal areas, hiking trails take you past gurgling mud pools, hissing steam vents and warm streams.
This paid content article was created for Ad Astra. It does not necessarily reflect the views of National Geographic, National Geographic Traveller (UK) or their editorial staffs.To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) click here. (Available in select countries only).

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