
Bar & Bites: Top Perth chefs share the one ingredient they can't live without
Bar & Bites grilled five top Perth chefs to discover their non-negotiables.
'For me, it has to be fennel and all its beautiful variations,' says Mathieu Wyatt from Intuition Wine & Kitchen in Subiaco. 'Fennel seeds, the bulb, star anise, dill . . . it's such a versatile ingredient, bringing this unique brightness and depth whether you're going sweet, savoury, or somewhere in between.
'I use it in so many dishes, and honestly, I'd be a bit lost without it.'
Growing up in the south of France, Wyatt says wild fennel was everywhere, especially in the garrigue.
'We'd grab some on walks, break off a stem, and chew on it,' the chef says. 'That fresh, aniseed flavour instantly brings me back to those moments. It's not just an ingredient for me — it's memory, place, and comfort all in one.'
West Kitchen & Bar executive chef Brian Grunewald considered eggs, which are essential for baking and the foundation of so many classic sauces, and thought of the ubiquitous onion before deciding the one ingredient he can't live without is simply salt.
'It's the unsung hero in every kitchen,' he says. 'When it's missing, you notice it instantly. Salt isn't just seasoning, it's about balance, depth and unlocking the true flavour of every ingredient.
'It enhances sweetness, cuts through bitterness and brings harmony to acidity. You can use it to cure, preserve, ferment or finish a dish with that perfect final flourish.
'Food without salt isn't just bland, it feels unfinished,' Grunewald adds. 'For me, it's the soul of the dish.'
And what is salt without vinegar, an unmissable element according to George Maxwell, head chef of inner-city pubs The Leadlight and Picabar.
Maxwell loves balsamic, white, Chinese black and Spanish chardonnay vinegar.
'Vinegar serves all purposes for home and commercial cooking,' he says. 'Great for balancing braises, perfect for pickling and preserving, and essential for sauces and dressing.
'Doubles as a great cleaner and neutraliser,' Maxwell says, adding that he fell in love with vinegar doused over hot chips as a child.
State Buildings exec chef Lucas Fernandes has plumped for the humble tomato.
'It can be fresh, it can be sweet, it can be bitter and it can be umami,' he says, 'but none of it can be done without salt.'
While Grunewald nearly chose the onion, Brian Cole from Hearth in The Ritz-Carlton couldn't go past the pungent bulb.
The chef de cuisine uses onions as the base for many dishes but says the vegetable can be the star of, for example, tomatoes with caramelised onion jam or ricotta gnocchi with burnt onion sabayon.
'Currently I've been utilising brown butter a fair bit,' Cole adds. 'It elevates a lot of dishes from a simple taste profile to one that has complexity and depth.
'When used correctly it can refine certain dishes and completely elevate others. It can also be used for finishing sauces and brushed on meats.
'At Hearth we currently have a dish that uses a browned butter base as a broth for our line-caught WA fish,' he says. 'There's endless applications and it's a true staple in the kitchen.'
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The Age
8 hours ago
- The Age
This homely suburban canteen serves bold tastes of Bangladesh every night of the week
Bold curries. Punchy street food. Bangladeshi-Chinese fusion: just three of the ways that this YouTube-school chef is flying the flag for her homeland. Previous SlideNext Slide 'This is the morog pulau,' smiles Janet Faldeus, the Bengali chef-owner of Authentic Family Recipes, as she brought my chicken pilaf lunch order to the table. 'I hope you like it.' How could I not? The medium-grain rice was fluffy and full. The chook was supple-as and cloaked a khaki-coloured curry onesie: creamy, mellow and comforting. A little bowl with more of the sauce was nestled into the rice. As far as introductions to the pleasures of Bangladeshi food go, morog pulau – one of the country's national dishes – is a good place to start, as is this homely canteen in East Vic Park. For those that know (or knew) Authentic Family Recipes as a safe bet for fortifying Indian-Malay-Singaporean comfort food, news that it is now a Bangladeshi restaurant may come as a surprise. It certainly was for me when I visited in October and discovered Faldeus was the restaurant's new owner and had change on her mind. Half a year on and that surprise has slowly been replaced with delight. Still, signs of the restaurant's past life remain. (The signage outside, for instance.) As she did for us then, Feldaus will cook you a flaky prata if you ask. True, it won't be stretched by hand like the ones served at Suzie's Makan Place or Rasa Sayang but let's be real: frozen prata is still pretty good. (Not least when you get home after a night out and remember that there's a packet of it in the freezer.) The more uniquely Bengali breads and snacks, though, are house-made and reason enough to visit, none more so than the Bangladeshi street food favourite. chitoi pitha: savoury, Twinkie-shaped rice flour cakes that are steam-baked in moulded, covered pans to render their underside chewy while keeping their core fluffy. They're great as is but truly shine when slicked with one of the accompanying two vorta, the Bangla word for condiments. In the red corner: a thick shutki heady with smoked fish. In the green: a zippy chutney of coriander and chilli that reminds me of the mighty Yemeni relish, zhug. While the chitoi pitha are cooked on the stovetop, most of the breads originate from the fryer. There's luchi: planks of bubbly flatbread that are, in a nice way, lighter and blonder than you'd expect. Sturdy samosas conceal fillings both usual (spiced potato, say) and less-so. (That'd be the beef liver.) Bangladeshi-style dal puri equals discs of enriched dough fried to carmel-golden, smooshed with lentils and served with a sweet tamarind water: think of them as a flat-earther-friendly version of Indian's legendary filled wheat spheres, panipuri and golgappa. But like the bible and medical advice both decree: 'man[kind] shall not live by bread alone.' (Matthew 4:4). And so the discussion moves to curry, Authentic Family Recipes' other main pillar. According to Ferduas, Bangladeshi cooks love to sing songs of fire and spice. Her preference, though, is to keep heat levels low, both for herself and for her customers. So while curries frequently sport the sort of oily, incandescent red glow that can make the spice-averse nervous, heat levels rarely go rise above a mild, PG-13 buzz. All the better to taste whichever protein is lolling in that day's curry. One day, it'll be juicy, bone-in goat. The next, honeycomb tripe that's been chopped into sensible postage-sized chunks and carefully simmered into submission. I'm not sure when Ferduas is cooking her whole quail curry next, but I hope I'm there when she does, and that the sauce boasts the same haunting richness as the version I ate earlier this month. (The secret, she says, is letting the look cook for thrice as long as usual.) I hope she'll share more Bangladeshi-Chinese dishes, too. Thanks to the mellow comfort of 'Thai chicken soup' – picture tom yum soup finally circling back to tomato soup's email about a brand collaboration – served with bowtie-shaped fried chicken dumplings called onthons, I've discovered a new strain of Chinese fusion food to get nerdy about. While there's a laminated menu by the register, it's little more than set-dressing. Homesick Bengalis will already know what they want and will order it with joyful tears in their eyes. The rest of us will be discretely Googling dish names from both the main carte and handwritten specials whiteboard. My advice? Ignore both and have a chat with Janet. She'll tell you what's good and will authorise reshuffles of suggested protein and carb pairings – 'chicken chop + lucci ($18)' – if she wants you to try something: a sign, I think, of an enthusiastic first-time restaurateur keen to share her heritage with others. Wait, I lie. Sort of. Although Ferdaus bought Authentic Family Recipes in October, she also temporarily leased the restaurant for a few afternoons a week in 2020 after COVID. Back then, cooking was something she did for herself: a quiet act of independence that also allayed the monotony of the housewife life. (She only started cooking in Australia and taught herself by reading online recipes and watching YouTube.) This time around, she's cooking for her family and to support herself and her nine-year-old son following her husband's passing. Despite the roughness of the hand that she's been dealt, Ferdaus has neither the time nor energy to throw herself a pity party. Perhaps it's because she invests so much of both in her community? Students get discounts. Rough sleepers get fed. (Guests that want to help feed others can slip some banknotes into a white letterbox above the register.) Everyone gets to dine at a homely, canteen-like space where they can get a meal for less than $20, even if they have to collect their own cutlery and squeeze into small tables that are tightly packed lip-to-lip. Like many restaurateurs serving the food of the Indian subcontinent, Ferdaus does all of her cooking at once – typically around lunchtime – and then stores everything in bain maries to sell throughout the day. Visit in the evening after a big lunch and you may discover the restaurant's looking bare, Old Mother Hubbard-style. The solution: come around noon while she's still preparing the food, even if it's to get some takeaway for dinner. The price one pays for access to these early draft picks, though, is potentially leaving the restaurant covered in the distinctive scent of eau de open kitchen. If you're not familiar with it, it's an evocative fragrance that leads with cooking oil, but also includes top notes of forward planning, streetwise dining and victory. I hope, and know, you'll like it. Good Food Guide.

Sydney Morning Herald
8 hours ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
This homely suburban canteen serves bold tastes of Bangladesh every night of the week
Bold curries. Punchy street food. Bangladeshi-Chinese fusion: just three of the ways that this YouTube-school chef is flying the flag for her homeland. Previous SlideNext Slide 'This is the morog pulau,' smiles Janet Faldeus, the Bengali chef-owner of Authentic Family Recipes, as she brought my chicken pilaf lunch order to the table. 'I hope you like it.' How could I not? The medium-grain rice was fluffy and full. The chook was supple-as and cloaked a khaki-coloured curry onesie: creamy, mellow and comforting. A little bowl with more of the sauce was nestled into the rice. As far as introductions to the pleasures of Bangladeshi food go, morog pulau – one of the country's national dishes – is a good place to start, as is this homely canteen in East Vic Park. For those that know (or knew) Authentic Family Recipes as a safe bet for fortifying Indian-Malay-Singaporean comfort food, news that it is now a Bangladeshi restaurant may come as a surprise. It certainly was for me when I visited in October and discovered Faldeus was the restaurant's new owner and had change on her mind. Half a year on and that surprise has slowly been replaced with delight. Still, signs of the restaurant's past life remain. (The signage outside, for instance.) As she did for us then, Feldaus will cook you a flaky prata if you ask. True, it won't be stretched by hand like the ones served at Suzie's Makan Place or Rasa Sayang but let's be real: frozen prata is still pretty good. (Not least when you get home after a night out and remember that there's a packet of it in the freezer.) The more uniquely Bengali breads and snacks, though, are house-made and reason enough to visit, none more so than the Bangladeshi street food favourite. chitoi pitha: savoury, Twinkie-shaped rice flour cakes that are steam-baked in moulded, covered pans to render their underside chewy while keeping their core fluffy. They're great as is but truly shine when slicked with one of the accompanying two vorta, the Bangla word for condiments. In the red corner: a thick shutki heady with smoked fish. In the green: a zippy chutney of coriander and chilli that reminds me of the mighty Yemeni relish, zhug. While the chitoi pitha are cooked on the stovetop, most of the breads originate from the fryer. There's luchi: planks of bubbly flatbread that are, in a nice way, lighter and blonder than you'd expect. Sturdy samosas conceal fillings both usual (spiced potato, say) and less-so. (That'd be the beef liver.) Bangladeshi-style dal puri equals discs of enriched dough fried to carmel-golden, smooshed with lentils and served with a sweet tamarind water: think of them as a flat-earther-friendly version of Indian's legendary filled wheat spheres, panipuri and golgappa. But like the bible and medical advice both decree: 'man[kind] shall not live by bread alone.' (Matthew 4:4). And so the discussion moves to curry, Authentic Family Recipes' other main pillar. According to Ferduas, Bangladeshi cooks love to sing songs of fire and spice. Her preference, though, is to keep heat levels low, both for herself and for her customers. So while curries frequently sport the sort of oily, incandescent red glow that can make the spice-averse nervous, heat levels rarely go rise above a mild, PG-13 buzz. All the better to taste whichever protein is lolling in that day's curry. One day, it'll be juicy, bone-in goat. The next, honeycomb tripe that's been chopped into sensible postage-sized chunks and carefully simmered into submission. I'm not sure when Ferduas is cooking her whole quail curry next, but I hope I'm there when she does, and that the sauce boasts the same haunting richness as the version I ate earlier this month. (The secret, she says, is letting the look cook for thrice as long as usual.) I hope she'll share more Bangladeshi-Chinese dishes, too. Thanks to the mellow comfort of 'Thai chicken soup' – picture tom yum soup finally circling back to tomato soup's email about a brand collaboration – served with bowtie-shaped fried chicken dumplings called onthons, I've discovered a new strain of Chinese fusion food to get nerdy about. While there's a laminated menu by the register, it's little more than set-dressing. Homesick Bengalis will already know what they want and will order it with joyful tears in their eyes. The rest of us will be discretely Googling dish names from both the main carte and handwritten specials whiteboard. My advice? Ignore both and have a chat with Janet. She'll tell you what's good and will authorise reshuffles of suggested protein and carb pairings – 'chicken chop + lucci ($18)' – if she wants you to try something: a sign, I think, of an enthusiastic first-time restaurateur keen to share her heritage with others. Wait, I lie. Sort of. Although Ferdaus bought Authentic Family Recipes in October, she also temporarily leased the restaurant for a few afternoons a week in 2020 after COVID. Back then, cooking was something she did for herself: a quiet act of independence that also allayed the monotony of the housewife life. (She only started cooking in Australia and taught herself by reading online recipes and watching YouTube.) This time around, she's cooking for her family and to support herself and her nine-year-old son following her husband's passing. Despite the roughness of the hand that she's been dealt, Ferdaus has neither the time nor energy to throw herself a pity party. Perhaps it's because she invests so much of both in her community? Students get discounts. Rough sleepers get fed. (Guests that want to help feed others can slip some banknotes into a white letterbox above the register.) Everyone gets to dine at a homely, canteen-like space where they can get a meal for less than $20, even if they have to collect their own cutlery and squeeze into small tables that are tightly packed lip-to-lip. Like many restaurateurs serving the food of the Indian subcontinent, Ferdaus does all of her cooking at once – typically around lunchtime – and then stores everything in bain maries to sell throughout the day. Visit in the evening after a big lunch and you may discover the restaurant's looking bare, Old Mother Hubbard-style. The solution: come around noon while she's still preparing the food, even if it's to get some takeaway for dinner. The price one pays for access to these early draft picks, though, is potentially leaving the restaurant covered in the distinctive scent of eau de open kitchen. If you're not familiar with it, it's an evocative fragrance that leads with cooking oil, but also includes top notes of forward planning, streetwise dining and victory. I hope, and know, you'll like it. Good Food Guide.


7NEWS
12 hours ago
- 7NEWS
Kanye West fans chant for refund at chaotic comeback show
Fans of Kanye West chanted for a refund at the rapper's concert in the Chinese city of Shanghai after he turned up more than 40 minutes late. The controversial rapper took to the stage at Shanghai Stadium on Saturday night and was reported by The Global Times to not only have been significantly delayed getting onstage, but his set was plagued by technical difficulties, with some fans even taking to social media to complain about the lack of production. A clip has gone viral online of the moment the 70,000-strong crowd erupted and demanded a refund. What's more, one fan accused him of lip syncing. 'Mostly lip syncing,' they wrote on X. 'His microphone must have been up less than 20 per cent of the time.' The same user also claimed Kanye left the stage for 20 minutes during the encore as his music played over the sound system. 'For the encore, he disappeared for over 20 minutes at one point as tracks like Wolves just played out with him nowhere in sight,' the disappointed gig-goer wrote. 'I could have just played your music at home man. Came to see u perform???? (sic)' The concert marked West's first since September 2024. West has only played a handful of gigs in recent years and has lost brand deals and been dropped by huge names since making a series of anti-Semitic outbursts.