Kochi college teacher's homely restaurant is a foodie's delight

New Indian Express

26-04-2025

In a city like Kochi, where restaurants tirelessly compete to stand out, serving everything from fusion and pan-asian to continental, Mediterranean, and niche global cuisines, there's a quiet corner in Mulavukad, just a kilometre from Bolgatty, that chooses to walk a different path. At 'Jency's Good Food', the goal isn't to dazzle with trends but to comfort with simplicity. Here, the mantra is clear: 'Simple is key'.
Rooted in authentic Kerala cuisine, Jency's Good Food doesn't try to reinvent the wheel. Instead, it brings food that feels like home to the table.
'There's a market for everything unique, sure. But how long can someone keep eating unfamiliar dishes? For most Malayalis, the familiar taste of naadan cuisine is something they can have every day. That's the purpose of food, right? The idea was to serve something people can come back to daily,' says founder Jency Treesa.
A passionate home cook turned entrepreneur, Jency also serves as an assistant professor in commerce at St Teresa's College (Autonomous), Ernakulam, and is a research guide under MG University. Despite her academic commitments, she took the step toward fulfilling a long-held dream.
'Starting a restaurant was always in the back of my mind. Growing up with three brothers, we all used to cook when we wanted to recreate dishes we tasted outside. But with my teaching profession, I wasn't sure I could manage it all. Thankfully, my college management was very supportive, and finally, I made it happen.'
Before launching the restaurant, Jency had already dipped her toes into the food business with homemade syrups — like naruneendi, beetroot, and carrot — as well as meat masala and sambar powder, all made fresh at home.
The occasional catering gigs gave me the idea of serving larger groups and the confidence to scale up. The positive feedback I got during those times really gave me the push to start Good Food,' she adds.
As I stepped into the cosy, welcoming space she curated, it felt more like entering someone's home than a restaurant. That's exactly what Jency envisioned — 'like dining at your family table.'
The meal began with appam — light, fluffy in the centre with lacy edges so delicate, it's easy to lose count of how many you eat. Paired with it were two standout dishes, prawns in thick masala and Eri pollichathu. The Eri — slightly fried and coated in a spicy, tangy blend — was flaky and moist in just the right way. The prawns were generously sized, juicy, and bursting with flavour.
According to Jency, on her menu, the showstopper is the pork fry. 'I have repeat customers mainly for pork.'
Made with a base of onion, turmeric, and a ginger-garlic paste, what sets it apart is the dominant peppery note that elevates the dish. Fatty, flavorful, and crisp around the edges, it paired perfectly with the rice meals served.
To round off the meal, I tried the naruneendi juice. Its refreshing earthiness felt cleansing — a perfect finish to a hearty lunch. What stands out across all dishes is the careful use of ingredients, most of which are freshly ground by Jency herself. Nothing feels heavy or overdone.
The venture has live counters set outside, which start around 6.30pm. They also cater to customised orders, bringing a personalised experience to an event.