Colorful, vibrant Colombian metropolis Medellín doesn't hide its darker past

Miami Herald

05-05-2025

MEDELLIN, Colombia - Back in the day, drug lord Pablo Escobar built up his feared cocaine empire in Medellín. At the same time, a war was raging between the Colombian government and guerrillas of the FARC movement. That was the early 1990s when the "city of eternal spring" located in a valley of the Andes Mountains was one of the most dangerous places on earth. A lot has changed since then.
Medellín has transformed itself into an innovative metropolis, one attracting start-ups, digital nomads and travelers. The city invested heavily in its infrastructure - parks, libraries, a metro transit network, and the many famous cable cars connecting the poorer quarters with the city center. Meanwhile corridors of greenery now help cool the city off.
Today, Colombia's second-largest city proudly displays its cosmopolitanism as a place where "social urbanism" has improved the inhabitants' quality of life.
The city's image has changed, and this is fantastic, says Daniel Sierra, who lived through the violence back then and today guides tourists around the city. Of course, the new image does gloss over many problems which coexist with a booming tourism industry. As examples, Sierra cites the commercialization everywhere of the narcotics trade with the stories about the "Narcos" - drug dealers. Plus, sex tourism.
Nevertheless, a visitor traveling through Columbia should not miss Medellín. At the very least, a quick visit can be more interesting than the capital Bogota, a place that even for many Colombians is a bit too understated.
The following are brief portraits and tips on what to see in four Medellín neighborhoods for a well-rounded sight-seeing trip.
La Candelaria: Bustling city center with a deep history
The Centro is Medellín's bustling business district, though you will also find many cultural highlights. The Plaza Botero square, for example, features 23 sculptures by the famous Colombian artist Fernando Botero. The cultural center Rafael Uribe, with an art gallery and photo archives, immediately catches your eye with its Neo-Gothic architecture.
A bronze Botero bird was left standing in San Antonio Square as a memorial after it was blown to pieces in a bomb attack in 1995. Art lovers can also visit the Museo de Antioquia. The botanical garden north of the center is worth a detour.
Tip: The futuristic Museo Casa de la Memoria a little to the east commemorates the victims of the decades of armed conflict in Colombia.
Comuna13: Erstwhile battleground a tourism quarter
The war between the drug cartels, guerrillas and paramilitaries was fought particularly fiercely in Comuna 13. The neighborhood in the San Javier district was considered perhaps the most dangerous urban area in the world. After the end of the violence, Comuna 13 gradually became a tourist destination, and today it symbolizes Medellín's transformation.
Locals bring visitors closer to the history, whereby historical facts and personal anecdotes often intermingle in the accounts. Graffiti underscores the social changes under way, while freestyle rap makes a case for how imaginative street music can be. Small galleries and souvenir shops can be found everywhere.
Tours through Comuna 13 are a colorful, over-the-top spectacle with a touch of narco folklore. The insights are exciting, but the neighborhood is being flooded with more and more tourists. Whether this bothers you is a matter of taste - this place has been gloomy for far too long.
Tip: Envigado, a municipality on the southern outskirts of the city, is well worth a visit. It is part of the Medellín metropolitan region and you can reach it by metro. The suburb has a relaxed vibe, with lively markets and squares.
El Poblado: Expatsmeet party-goers
Boutique hotels with roof terraces, chic restaurants and brunch venues and, above all, a nightlife like a roaring fever dream: El Poblado is the most affluent and safest neighborhood in the city, where the international community meets for lunch and where most tourists stay. In the evenings, the music plays in the streets around Lleras Park and reggae music drifts out of the bars and clubs. If you're a light sleeper, it's best to stay a little farther away.
The downside of this exuberant party scene is prostitution. Cocaine is also unabashedly for sale. The case of a U.S. tourist who was caught with two minors in a hotel and let go by the police caused a stir and protests from local residents. And after some mysterious deaths, the U.S. embassy warns against criminals who track down their victims via dating apps. Despite all this, El Poblado is also a place where foreigners can move around quite safely.
Tip: For coffee and brunch, favorite spots are the Briochelly and Azai Praia Lovers. For dinner, the X.O., Alambique or Sambombi Bistró Local feature top quality regional and seasonal cuisine.
Laureles: The quiet and authentic Medellín
This residential neighborhood north of the airport is the relaxed alternative to El Poblado and has retained its authentic charm. Here, too, you will find good hotels, restaurants and cafes, friendly parks and shopping malls.
A visit to a "fonda" - a typical Colombian gastro pub - is a special experience: garish decorations, loud live music and guests who are almost as loud. Traditional home cooking is served and beer flows freely. Among the many fondas along the Calle 70 street, a good bet is La Chismosa.
If you want a sunset with a panoramic view, many people drive up the Pueblito Paisa not far from Laureles. A typical village of the Antioquia region has been recreated on the hill. There are bars and souvenir shops and it often gets quite crowded. If you like romance along with hustle and bustle, this is the place for you.
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