How Louise Trotter Is Bringing Her Rebellious Joy To Bottega Veneta
The address finally arrives: Villa Clerici, an aristocratic mansion nestled in the Niguarda district of Milan, north of the city. Once you're past the imposing gate, a hidden world unfolds—first an enormous Italian garden dotted with statues, then another large garden at the rear containing two amphitheaters. Villa Clerici's interior rooms feature 18th-century frescoes, trompe l'oeil decorations, and coffered ceilings. It all feels opulent yet somehow restrained—sacred and slightly surreal at the same time.
I walk up the stairs in the quiet afternoon and find Trotter at the end of a long corridor, enfolded in a Raphael Raffel leather lounge sofa from the 1970s with custom Bottega Veneta leather, produced by Cassina. A wide window behind her overlooks the arched courtyard. 'I realized we couldn't not do the interview here,' Trotter says with a smile. She has a kind of whimsical mystery to her, mixed with an innate curiosity and intelligence. 'In Paris, everything is grand and declared—in Milan, you have to find your own treasures.'
That notion seems to dovetail perfectly with the ethos of Bottega, which has always defied the noise of fashion. Founded in Vicenza as Bottega Veneta Artigiana in 1966 by Renzo Zengiaro and Michele Taddei, it has long built its identity on the idea that true luxury whispers. 'My initial connection to the house was as a customer—I was collecting vintage Bottega Veneta,' says Trotter, who was struck by what seemed to be a radical ethos: 'They were able to create a clear identity without any need for a logo, and I think that takes a certain confidence. You're not making a statement to be seen—you're showing who you are.'
The Latin phrase nomen omen—the name is a sign—rings true with her: She is, quite literally, a globe-trotter. Before Bottega, she brought a refined tailoring and minimalist aesthetic to England, America, and France, working variously at Gap, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, and the London brands Jigsaw and Joseph. In 2018 she became the first woman to lead Lacoste, and in 2023 she took over Carven. Throughout her career, she's been less a disrupter than a very creative and vibrant custodian—someone who honors legacy through quiet reinvention.
This patient philosophy feels especially resonant in the fast-shifting fashion scenario of our current moment, when disruption has become the norm. Unfortunately, though, it's still rather rare to see a woman leading a house of Bottega Veneta's scale and stature. 'Of course I would like to see more female representation—not just in design, but from a business side too,' Trotter says, adding: 'I want to believe that I've succeeded because of my work and because of who I am, and not just because I'm a woman.'
To start her creative process for Bottega, Trotter has been spending time in Montebello Vicentino, where the house's archives and artisans are based. 'What's fascinating is seeing how pieces from decades ago still feel relevant—I look at something 50 years old, and I still completely desire it. But we are still very much in a getting-to-know-each-other phase,' she says with a chuckle. What she will share of her process involves a balance between learning from established systems and adding her own touch—'observing and stepping in,' as she puts it. She builds from the past, but is never beholden to it. 'You have to know where a house comes from in order to move forward,' she says.
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In 2019, fashion house Gucci sparked controversy with its 'Indy Full Turban,' sold for $790 on Nordstrom's website. The blue headpiece closely resembled the traditional Sikh turban, prompting backlash from Sikh communities in India and elsewhere. It was eventually removed from the website, with Nordstrom quickly apologizing amid the backlash. Just this year, the clothing company Reformation was criticized for selling a blouse, skirt and scarf that reminded many South Asians of the lehenga, an Indian garment consisting of a long skirt, top and a dupatta (scarf), a staple of Indian fashion for centuries and typically draped across a woman's chest. Some took issue with Reformation's lack of acknowledgement for the garment. One TikTok user joked: 'My girl is about to go strut the streets of India… Give credit where credit is due, this is literally a lehenga with a dupatta.' She also noted that the pastel-colored blouse, skirt and scarf were strikingly similar to lehengas worn by Bollywood celebrities in the early 2000s. In a statement to The Washington Post, Reformation said the design in question was inspired by a 1990s-era John Galliano gown and scarf set owned by the model Devon Lee Carlson, with whom it collaborated on the collection. just my thoughts on these pieces from the ref x devon collab #greenscreen #reformation #browngirl #browngirltiktok #lehenga #dupatta #devonlee #fashion #springfashion #indianoutfits #southasian #southasianfashion #jhumkas #ibizaoutfits #scarves H&M, meanwhile, recently came under fire for a sleeveless sheer 'long camisole' top and trouser set that many social media users likened to the salwar kameez, a traditional Indian tunic and pant. 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The show was widely hailed as a respectful homage, with Vogue India's fashion director Anaita Shroff Adajania describing it as 'a thank you to India.' Amed, from The Business of Fashion, meanwhile, called the collaboration between Chanakya International and Maria Grazia Chiuri, then Dior's creative director, as 'thoughtful… not performative,' adding: 'Chiuri hasn't just sourced embroidery from India; she's spotlighted the artisans, acknowledged the lineage of the craft, and in doing so, helped shift perceptions of where luxury value is created.' Similarly, last month, Nike launched its first collaboration with an Indian fashion label, the Delhi-based brand NorBlack NorWhite, unveiling a vibrant range of sportswear inspired by ancient tie-dye techniques. The move was broadly celebrated by social media users in India, a country in which Nike has long struggled to make commercial inroads. For Diet Sabya's founder, however, much more must be done to ensure genuine recognition for Indian talent and traditions. 'When India is being eyed as the next big luxury market, you can't keep treating it like an exotic pitstop,' they said. 'While a few brands are finally acknowledging us as the global textile powerhouse we are — it's still crumbs. Visibility is a start. But equity is the end goal.'
