
Gardeners issued 'act now' warning over common pests
Your garden may have some uninvited guests, commonly known as weeds. And one of my jobs to do this week is get weeds out of the ground before they set seed and propagate another generation of weeds. As the saying goes, one year's seeding is seven years' weeding.
Some weeds, like bindweed and ground elder, are particularly invasive and can quickly strangle your cultivated perennials if unchecked. We now know that chemical herbicides can have serious environmental and health impacts. But of the most effective and environmentally friendly methods for dealing with weeds is manual removal. Hoes are particularly useful for dealing with young seedlings, slicing them just below the soil surface and disturbing their delicate roots.
Specialised hand tools like sharp weeding knives are invaluable. These tools allow you to carefully pry out weeds with minimal disturbance to surrounding plants. In driveways, patios, and between paving stones, mechanical methods such as a weed burner offer a chemical-free solution. Directing a flame at the weed damages its cells and causes it to die back. Alternatively, pouring boiling water over weeds can be surprisingly effective.
Jobs to do this week
Hanging baskets and containers may need twice daily watering in these high temperatures. Similarly fruit and veg will need your attention.
If it's moist or there's a chance of rain, give lawns a summer feed.
Hedges that are looking a bit hairy can be trimmed back.
Cut back hardy geraniums that have finished flowering to encourage a second flush.
Summer prune wisteria – this just means cutting back long whippy shoots to about six leaves. Do this when the wisteria is finished flowering to encourage it to form more flower buds for next year.
Give dahlias a liquid feed and stake them to support them.
Pinch out side shoots of cordon tomatoes. Water tomatoes daily to prevent split fruit and feed weekly.
Remove rose flowers as they start to go over or it will use its energy to produce rosehips.
Now's the time to start refreshing parts of my garden, and this week my project was to plant ground cover beneath a canopy of tree ferns. I began with plenty of soil preparation, removing weeds and stones before covering the area with a thick layer of compost — a good six inches or more of dark, crumbly, nutrient-rich compost that smells of the woodland floor. It's the perfect host for my new plants.
Ferns are a natural choice for such an area. They complement the existing tree ferns, and the shady conditions mimic their natural woodland habitats. I've planted a mixture of varieties, arranging each in groups of five. Dryopteris erythrosora, sometimes known as the Autumn Fern, is one of my favourites. It's a resilient, beautiful, clump-forming, semi-evergreen perennial, with young copper-tinted foliage that matures to a vivid green.
In contrast, Athyrium 'Burgundy Lace' is a striking deciduous fern, with arching fronds that emerge purple and age to a silvery green, while retaining a bold purple mid-rib. This pairs well with the architectural foliage of Dryopteris wallichiana, or Wood Fern, known for its upright, shuttlecock shape and dark green leaves with a central black rib — a real statement plant.
With a view to adding spring colour, I've included a few old favourites. Brunnera 'Jack Frost' is a reliable choice, flowering in April and May with tiny, bright blue flowers resembling forget-me-nots, beautifully offset by its silvery, heart-shaped leaves. Pulmonaria 'Blue Ensign' serves a similar role, with broad, fuzzy, dark green leaves and bright, bell-shaped flowers in early spring, providing much-needed nectar for pollinators. Both are perennials that die back in winter.
Hardy geraniums are truly wonderful garden plants, with a variety for every situation. In this shady spot, Geranium phaeum is among the best options. Also known as the dusky cranesbill or mourning widow, it has distinctive flowers with curved-back petals and prominent stamens. I'm also planting 'Springtime', a cultivar with dark purple flowers and foliage attractively splotched with purple at the base.
Dotted throughout the bed are several Helleborus orientalis, which will thrive in shade and flower for several months in spring. As these are unnamed varieties, their flower colours will be a surprise — I could find myself greeted by pink, white, purple, or even green blooms next year.
My final star plant is Osmunda regalis, the royal fern. Aptly named, it produces elegant, regal fronds that unfurl a fresh green in spring, turn bronze in autumn, and then die back. It's a plant that demands space, capable of reaching six feet in height when it's happy — which means it needs plenty of water. As they're all new plantings, I'll be keeping them well watered through summer, and the combination of moisture and warmth should help them settle in beautifully.
I'm looking forward to watching this cool, calm, shady corner develop. With the right plants, a sheltered spot like this can become one of the loveliest parts of any garden.
Plant of the week: Antirrhinum 'Appleblossom'
Better known as snapdragons, these delightful summer flowers are easy to grow and come in a range of cheerful colours. 'Appleblossom' has pretty pastel pink blossoms and makes a good cutting flower as it responds by producing more flowers. Grow in full sunshine in fertile well-drained soil.

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Scottish Sun
4 days ago
- Scottish Sun
Five underrated shade-loving plants including striking fern that brings brilliant season colour & texture to flower beds
These plants are great to use where fussier plants fail to thrive BRIGHTEN UP Five underrated shade-loving plants including striking fern that brings brilliant season colour & texture to flower beds Click to share on X/Twitter (Opens in new window) Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) SHADY areas in your garden don't have to be boring, by selecting the right plants, you can transform dim corners into lush, vibrant retreats. Here are five underrated shade-loving plants, including a striking fern that will bring brilliant season colour to your garden. Sign up for Scottish Sun newsletter Sign up Dryopteris 'Brilliance' (Autumn Fern) 5 Dryopteris 'Brilliance' (Autumn Fern) Credit: Getty Horticultural expert Laura Root said in Homes and Gardens: "This is a shade-tolerant fern with fiery copper-red new fronds that mature to deep green. "This variety of fern adds striking contrast and texture to shady beds." In addition, its "Brilliance" brings seasonal colour to a plant category known predominantly for being green. This variety of fern is low-maintenance, deer-resistant, and thrives in moist, well-drained soil. It is certainly a popular ground cover choice that offers a lively splash of colour and is easy to care for. It's also one of the best underrated shade plants to use where fussier plants fail to thrive. Iris Foetidissima (Stinking iris) 5 Iris Foetidissima (Stinking iris) Credit: Getty It is one of two iris species native to Britain, the other being the yellow iris. Stinking iris thrives in full shade, particularly beneath trees in your garden. It has architectural evergreen foliage and dull, purple-green flowers. But it comes into its own in autumn when its large seedpods split open to reveal rows of orange-red seeds that remain well into winter. Alan Titchmarsh's top 7 plants that 'transform ugly fences with gorgeous flowers & fragrance' & they grow for years It is known as "stinking" because some people find the smell of its leaves unpleasant when crushed or bruised, an odour that has been described as "beefy". The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM). Eranthis Hyemalis (Winter aconite) 5 Eranthis Hyemalis (Winter aconite) Credit: Getty Aconites grow into clumps, eventually bearing masses of bright yellow flowers in late January and February. They thrive in damp shade so are perfect for growing in a damp, shady border or woodland garden. August gardening jobs The Sun's Gardening Editor, Veronica Lorraine, has shared the 10 gardening jobs to take on during the last month of summer - and the all important ones to remember if you're going on holiday. 1. Watering plants on holiday Think about how you're going to water your plants if you're going away. Irrigation systems are stupidly expensive - so ask a friend or neighbour to pop over. 2. Remember your houseplants! For houseplants use the upside down bottle trick - where you fill a wine bottle and then tip it upside down, spout down, and stick it into the pot - the water should seep out slowly. For smaller plants you can use a thick piece of cord running from a glass of water, into the soil - so it slowly takes it up over time. Be sensible with your watering - vistit for some tips on how to conserve water in August. But use as much grey water - ie washing up water - as you can to save such a valuable resource. 3. Dig for potatoes Second early potatoes should be ready to dig up. 4. Carry on deadheading Use either secateurs or just pinch off the blooms with your finger and thumb. With roses, make sure you're dead heading back to a set of five leaves, giving you the best chance of more blooms. 5. Plant strawberries You can actually plant strawberries in late august - which will be ready next year. For the ones you already have - if they've got runners springing off them - try and pot them up to make more strawberries for free. 6. Prune lavenders In late August once they've finished flowering cut back your lavender - always prune them back to the woody stems - but make sure you can still see some little buds. 7. Collect seeds A lot of plants will start going to seed now - so it's the perfect time to walk around collecting them to get free plants for next year - just make sure you label the envelopes. 8. Sow hardy annuals Towards the end of the month, sow hardy annuals in order for them to flower next year. Try and choose sheltered spots for them. 9. Cut back roses Prune back rambling roses and make sure they are all tied in. And in late August give your roses their last feed. 10. Keep on top of watering hanging baskets It's really important to keep hanging baskets hydrated - they are the first and the worst for drying out. The pretty plant is especially common in the east of England, and can be found in parks and woodlands. Winter Aconite however is not a native wildflower. It was introduced in the 16th century as a garden plant. But now centuries later, it is considered naturalised. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM). Digitalis Purpurea (Foxglove) 5 Digitalis Purpurea (Foxglove) Credit: Getty Our native foxglove, Digitalis purpurea, is a woodland plant that thrives in dappled or partial shade. There are many cultivars and varieties that flower in different colours and have different shaped blooms. Most thrive in partial shade but some require more sun and it generally produces enough seeds so that new plants will continue to grow in a garden setting. It is the original source of the heart medicine digoxin (also called digitalis or digitalin). Aquilegia Flabellata (Granny's bonnet) 5 Aquilegia Flabellata (Granny's bonnet) Credit: Getty Aquilegias are a sweet, old-fashioned cottage garden plant with bonnet-shaped flowers, perfect for growing in partial shade. Aquilegia flabellata is a dwarf columbine, bearing blue nodding flowers over a compact mound of waxy grey-green foliage. Aquilegia flowers each have five sepals and five smaller petals. Each petal has two portions: a broad portion called a blade that projects forward and an elongated base that forms a structure called a nectar spur containing nectar that projects backward. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).


Daily Mirror
09-08-2025
- Daily Mirror
Garden plant 'loved by swingers' back in fashion but with 'extraordinary' warning
Expert Diarmuid Gavin says gardeners should treat a distinctive ornamental grass with extreme caution - but not just because what it hints about lifestyle! Pampas grasses are having a moment. You'll see them everywhere this year, in floristry, on Instagram, and in the garden itself – they're a statement. Towering, dramatic, architectural. Behind that glamour is a plant that can, over time, become a problem. In mature specimens, the centre of the plant may begin to die off. This happens to many flowering perennials in our borders. The outer ring keeps expanding and before long, you're left with what looks like a doughnut: growth around the edges but rot and collapse at the heart. The solution is often easy enough – to renew their vigour (and to increase the amount of plants you have) you divide them. But with pampas grass it's more complicated. Once it reaches a certain size, it is extremely hard to manage. Each year's growth sits atop the previous one, building an impenetrable tower of dead stems, thatch and tough fibrous roots. The outer leaves remain sharp and vigorous, but the inner core turns into a thick, matted mulch that is not only unsightly but often rots in wet weather. When storms like Floris hit, whole heads of foliage can tear away, leaving the plant ragged and gaping. And while younger grasses bend and recover, older ones can split or collapse. I'm often asked whether these mature clumps can be lifted and divided. In theory, yes... but in practice, without heavy machinery or a team of strong helpers with saws and spades, it is extraordinarily difficult. The rootball can weigh hundreds of kilos and behaves more like solid wood. An extreme method is sometimes used – cutting back the foliage and setting fire to the plants innards. This was once a common practice in large estates or farmland settings. The idea was to burn away the debris in the centre, clearing space for new growth in spring. But it can be dangerous. Pampas grass is highly flammable, especially in dry or windy conditions. A moment's inattention can lead to fire spreading to fences, hedges and properties. Unless you have a wide, safe space, and all the right precautions, it isn't worth the risk. The best approach is to cut the plant back to the base in late winter, when it's dormant and dry. Use shears or a hedge trimmer, wear gloves and long sleeves, and be ruthless. Once it's cut back, inspect the crown. If the centre is too far gone – rotted or collapsed – it may be time to remove the plant and replace it with something younger and more manageable. If the outer growth is healthy, you can sometimes lift and replant small sections, for a fresh start. If you're thinking about introducing pampas grass into your garden, begin with one of the more refined, better-behaved cultivars. 'Pumila' is a compact variety growing to about 1.2m, ideal for smaller spaces and pots. 'Evita' has beautiful plumes with a tidy base, hardy and upright, reaching around 1.5m. If you have space, 'Sunningdale Silver' grows to over 2m with giant flowering heads, ideal for open gardens and bold schemes. These grasses can be magnificent but they demand thought. They require space, commitment and sometimes, when the wind is howling and the foliage is shredding themselves to ribbons, a quiet moment of reflection on whether it might be time to begin again. Jobs to do in the garden this week Watering plants particularly those in pots or newly planted, is your main job when it's hot and dry. Do so when it's cooler in the morning or evening as otherwise you will lose a lot of water to evaporation. Water plants thoroughly – a little trickle will just evaporate off the surface. Move pots into shade if possible. You can increase your stock of border carnations by layering – choose a healthy side shoot that isn't flowering, bend it over without snapping the stem and peg firmly into the ground with some wire. Cover the stem with soil and water in. Irises that have become congested can be divided to improve vigour. Lift them carefully to avoid damaging rhizomes and gently split apart to replant. Having trouble with earwigs on dahlias? Put traps with pots stuffed with shredded paper near them and remove earwigs daily. Prune climbing and rambling roses when they finish flowering. You can trim conifer and evergreen hedges as a final tidy up before autumn slows growth. Colchicum, sternbergia and autumn crocus can be planted out as soon as they are available to buy in the garden centre. What's the best way to get rid of bindweed? Bindweed or Convolvulus is a rampant climber that twines its way around stems and branches of anything around it. Without resorting to chemicals, the only way to control it is by regularly pulling it up. The plant needs its leaves to photosynthesise and grow so if you are constantly removing the leaves it does weaken the plant. In winter or spring dig up the white roots before they send up growth. Try to remove as much root as possible as even a little section left will resprout. Plant of the week: Gladiolus 'Nanus' Gladioli like to be noticed and dress themselves in the brightest of colours. Also known as Sword lilies due to the shape of their leaves. (Gladiolus translates as 'little sword'), their tall spikes covered in funnel shaped blossoms make superb cut flowers. In sunny well drained sites they will grow often to several feet. However there are smaller cultivars suitable for growing in pots – these are known as dwarf glads and come in many colours. These will also work well dotted through borders. Lift and store in a frost free area over winter and replant next April. If you're planting in heavy soil, a little bit of sand beneath the corm will help with drainage.


Daily Mirror
28-06-2025
- Daily Mirror
Gardeners urged to plant one common flower slugs absolutely hate
There are few plants that slugs enjoy nibbling more than the hosta, but instead of dousing yours in chemical insect repellants, try Diarmuid Gavin's more natural solution After hosting winter displays and spring bulbs, now's the time for summer colour in my pots. That's been my job this week and I like using terracotta pots because they complement most types of planting. They can dry out quickly so require a commitment to keeping them well watered throughout the warmer months. I've emptied the old compost around the garden beds and I am using a good-quality multi-purpose compost that will support my choice of plants. This, combined with fortnightly liquid feeding and deadheading, should ensure lots of flowers to enjoy over the next few months. As we are well past any fear of frost, there's plenty of plants that will thrive now. Tender bedding plants can be used and you may have been growing your own from seed which might be pot ready now. It is easy to be seduced by the trays of brightly coloured flowers for sale but in general it's a good idea to buy plants that have plenty of buds yet to blossom. I've chosen a mix of perennial and annuals, some old favourites and some new ones to try out. READ MORE: Homes with hanging baskets urged to repeat crucial 60 second task daily Bulbine 'Avera Sunset Orange' is a newbie. A perennial, it's also known as the burnt jelly plant as its succulent leaves have skin-healing properties, a bit like aloe vera. It has fleshy linear leaves and exotic-looking orange and yellow flowers. Hailing from South Africa, it can only manage outdoors here in the summer unless you are in the Scilly Isles or somewhere similar. It's a good plant for a balcony and then can be taken indoors over winter. Erigeron karvinskianus is an old reliable and one that I think looks great with its relaxed habit, the daisy flowers tumbling down the side of pots. Although it comes from Mexico, it's remarkably happy in our climate. It's great as an edging plant, tucked into cracks in paving or walls or simply as part of a mixed border and will grow in sun or partial shade in well-drained soil. Cerinthe purpurascens is a very easy-to-grow annual. Also known as honeywort, its pretty purple bell-shaped flowers are a magnet for bees and butterflies. These contrast beautifully with the silvery green oval leaves too. Cosmos is also a superb half hardy annual – I love the daisy-like flowers that usually come in white or pink but are also available in warmer yellows and oranges. I've a slightly complex relationship with hostas. Any plant that causes gardeners anxiety due to a creature nibbling on them, using chemical pesticides to kill them off, possibly isn't right for that gardener's plot. The slugs that feed on them make delicious food for our garden birds. And why do we want to poison any creature in our gardens? It's not really part of our nurturing nature is it? But there are some hostas that have a reputation for being slug resistant. I'm using a variety called 'Blue Umbrellas', which is one of the largest of the species and has giant blue-green heart shaped leaves. It should be the crowning glory of the new potted garden. Jobs to do in the garden this week Watch out for scarlet lily beetle and remove – they're crafty and will hop off the stem as you approach, so try and cup one hand below to catch them. Keep an eye out for slugs and snails who may tuck into your flowers and leafy vegetables. A shallow saucer of beer nightly beside your flowers is a good way of controlling them. Cut back lupins before they go to seed and you may get a second smaller flush. Cut back hardy geraniums that have finished flowering to ensure new growth. Keep roses well watered in warm weather and regularly check pots for watering. Peat-based compost can dry out, so it may need a complete dunking in a bucket of water until all the air bubbles are gone from soil. Warm weather can lead to an increase in algae and duckweed in your pond, so fish it out with a small fishing net or twirl it around a cane. Barley straw in the pond can help keep the problem at bay or if you can't get hold of any there are liquid products available that contain an extract of it which will do the same job. Keep your bird bath topped up for the birds. Divide irises after flowering – you only need do this process every few years but it will help to put new life into old stock. Why your roses aren't growing well in pots A reader wrote in to ask why his roses aren't doing well in pots. They're the right size and he followed the label instructions. I don't blame him for being baffled. Roses can grow very well in pots provided the conditions are right. In warm and windy weather pots can dry out fast so consistent watering is essential. However, they don't like being waterlogged as the roots can rot, so good drainage is important – pots must have drainage holes. Roses are hungry feeders and will benefit from a high potassium feed every two weeks in the growing season. Pot compost can become exhausted so top with fresh compost every year. With consistent moisture, good drainage, and feeding, your roses should bounce back. Plant of the week: Delphinium 'Faust' It's hard to compete with the glamour of delphiniums in full bloom, their stately stems covered in flowers. 'Faust' is a fine cultivar with an RHS Award of Garden Merit. It has rich blue double flowers with a dark eye and can grow to a height of 5-6ft. For best results, grow in well-drained soil and full sunshine. Give them adequate space as they don't like to be crowded and a sheltered spot is best. They make gorgeous cut flowers and provide vertical interest in the borders, flowering through the summer. Cut back faded spikes and you may get a second flush of flowers. For super blooms, thin shoots when young to leave just two or three spikes.