Is this the best beach in the world?

Boston Globe

7 days ago

Get Starting Point
A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday.
Enter Email
Sign Up
When it comes to gorgeous beaches, Landaa Giraavaru is right up there, one of only 5 percent of the world's beaches composed of coraline sand.
Diane Bair
Advertisement
Rare sand
The beaches that make up this island paradise are part of the Baa Atoll UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, a biodiversity hot spot. This atoll, a ring-shaped reef that surrounds a lagoon, harbors 250 species of corals and 1,200 species of fish.
Advertisement
As for that shimmering, pearlescent sand? It's made of coral. Only 5 percent of the world's beaches are coraline; most are made of quartz. Coraline sand consists mostly of calcium carbonate, the mineral that forms the skeletons of corals, clams, and other marine organisms. When those animals die, waves and currents break them apart and grind them into sand. Parrotfish also deserve some credit. They eat mature coral and excrete calcium carbonate, which looks like snowflakes in the water. Parrotfish excrete so much sediment that they create beaches. So, yes, fish poop helped create these famously spectacular stretches of beach.
The downside? With no direct flights from the United States, travel to the Maldives is a haul. The 1,192 islands of this republic are located in the Indian Ocean. From Boston, you fly into Doha or Dubai, then fly to the Maldivian island capital of Malé. From there, it's a boat trip or seaplane ride to your island of choice. By the time you've conquered a 12-hour flight, a lengthy layover, and another five-hour flight, you may be asking yourself: Is it worth it?
Bleary-eyed, you'll fling your body into the sea, and the Maldivian waters will work their magic. You'll have your answer.
"Barefoot pilots" fly these tiny island-hopper planes between the islands of the Maldives.
Diane Bair
Lay of the land
Some background: Tourism arrived in the Maldives in 1972. Now, it is the major driver of the economy. (Fishing is second.) The concept is one resort per island, and these are small islands that you can cover by foot in 15 minutes or so. Resorts provide food, lodgings, and activities, so choose with care. Note that the national Maldivian language is Dhivehi, but English is widely used.
Advertisement
These islands are known for luxurious properties with overwater bungalows, but you can find lodgings at all price points these days. You could also stay on Malé, the capital, in a budget-priced business hotel or guest house, and make day trips to the beach.
For most visitors, though, this is a bucket-list, once-in-a-lifetime destination, so they'll spend a bit more for the experience.
It's a tranquil poolside scene around sunset at the Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa.
Diane Bair
The lush life
There's been plenty of hoopla surrounding the Four Seasons as the location for 'The White Lotus' TV series, most recently, Koh Samui in Thailand. Here, they really nail the serenity-meets-luxury vibe (bonus: no crowds). In addition to Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraaviru, they operate a smaller resort on Kuda Huraa and a small private luxury property, Voavah, that goes for $45k per night, 'a favorite of princes and presidents,' marketing manager Subah Jugari told us. (She wouldn't name names.)
The beach villas, with sunrise or sunset views, meld perfectly within the environment. Think thatched roofs, teak, and native Maldivian-style architecture accented with local lacquer work called
liyelaa jehun
or
laa jehun
. The overwater bungalows look pretty amazing, too.
The Four Seasons Maldives resorts are car-free; guests use staff-driven buggies (golf carts) and ride beach bikes to get around. At night, tall tiki torches illuminate the properties, adding a romantic touch.
We were expecting mostly couples, but we encountered lots of families and multi-gen groups at the resorts, many from the UK on school vacation. Each resort has a kids' club, and family-friendly activities like crab races and a nightly shark-feeding event. We joined a boat cruise in the waters near Kuda Huraa to look for spinner dolphins. (Spin they do, twisting and spiraling in the air like cetacean gymnasts.) Rays, sea turtles, and a variety of reef fishes populate the coral reefs here; joining a guided snorkeling trip gets you an up-close view. The ocean is so unbelievably clear, even those of us with lousy vision can get a look at the underwater marvels of the Maldives.
Advertisement
Digs at the Four Seasons' Maldives resorts are designed to blend into the luscious landscape, with outdoor day beds and private pools, the works.
Diane Bair
These waters are also known for whale sharks, the largest fish in the world. Trips to swim with whale sharks are a thing in the Maldives, but the Four Seasons resorts don't offer them, believing that the multiple boats and tourists are stressful for the fish. They're more involved with activities like sea turtle rehabilitation and a reef-regeneration project (guests can get involved with this), designed to protect the delicate ecosystem of the Maldives.
Fresh tuna on the daily? Yes please
Speaking of fish, if you're a lover of seafood, you'll be in culinary heaven here. We ate our body weight in fresh tuna. Local lobster and prawns are standouts, too. When you're marooned on an island with one resort, great food is important. The Four Seasons Maldives properties did not disappoint. Glorious fruits, resort-raised vegetables, and touches of Indian and Maldivian cookery create a vibrant dining experience.
Since we can't resist a cooking class, we signed up for Baraabaru Indian Cooking Class at Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa with chef Tamilarasan Ayyavoo. Our feast included tandoori prawns, curried lobster, chicken biryani, cucumber raita, and the tastiest, cheesiest naan ever. To recreate these at home, we'll have to seriously upgrade our spice collection. Of course, we can't recreate the setting at Baraabaru, the resort's Indian restaurant: dinner on a pier, under the stars, with manta rays circling below.
Advertisement
Al fresco meals, with feet in the sand, were a highlight here. We also loved the seaplane flights (barefoot pilots!) between resorts — you fly over islets that resemble geodes, a turquoise middle encircled by tawny sand. And the Island Spa at Kuda Huraa is on an actual island, reachable by
dhoni
(Maldivian-style boat), where guests indulge in 'flying meditation' and a 'healing waters' massage.
Back to that 'Is it worth it?' question: Are you the kind of person who loves to seek out the best sushi in Tokyo, the best pizza in New York, the ultimate … anything? Would you rather take one
amazing
trip to a fabulous resort than three 'nice' trips? Are you a beach lover to the depths of your soul? If so, this will be the best 8,573 miles you've ever traveled.
If you go. . .
Emirates and Qatar Airways are among the airlines that offer connecting flights from Boston to Malé, typically around 25 hours. The Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa has 96 villas (room rates from $1,000); Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraaviru has 103 villas (from $1,700);
Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at