Intensely Flavored and Supremely Comforting
Here's some good news worth shouting from the rooftops: Yewande Komolafe is back! After a serious illness that kept her out of the kitchen for more than a year, she's sharing her creative, soulful words and recipes in her column once again.
First up is her Ghanaian light soup, a popular dish across West Africa.
'Impossibly rich but never heavy or thick,' Yewande writes in The New York Times, the soup is traditionally made from dried fish or meat simmered with tomatoes, ginger, chiles and other aromatics. But in her take — inspired by Afia Amoako of 'Eat With Afia' — Yewande substitutes a mix of dried and fresh mushrooms to make a plant-based meal. Intensely flavored and supremely comforting, it's both a balm and a delight.
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But wait! I have even more thrilling news to share. After nearly a year of interim restaurant critic duty after Pete Wells stepped down last summer, Priya Krishna and I are returning to our regular roles. Tejal Rao and Ligaya Mishan have been named co-chief restaurant critics, and we'll see an ambitious expansion of our restaurant reviews in New York and across the country. I cannot wait to read what these two brilliant writers have to say.
Lemon-miso tofu with broccoli: Here's Hetty Lui McKinnon's vegetarian version of Cantonese-style lemon chicken, swapping in tofu for the meat. A touch of miso in the sauce adds umami notes and tones down the usual sweetness. Hetty fries the tofu in a skillet until it's golden and crisp, but you can use an air-fryer if that's more convenient.
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