A sea change: In the Baltics, a cruise comeback

Boston Globe

07-02-2025

We embarked on our cruise in Stockholm, whose imposing brick-and-stone royal palace stands as a symbol of Sweden's pivotal political role and former military prowess in the Baltic area.
Advertisement
The futuristic "Turning Torso" in Malmo, Sweden, was the world's first twisting residential skyscraper.
Claudia Capos
The Baltic Sea is relatively small ― roughly five times the surface-area size of Lake Superior ― so we awakened each morning at a different port.
Get Starting Point
A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
Enter Email
Sign Up
At our first stop, Helsinki, we snaked through the crowded 'Vanha Kauppahalli' (indoor city market) on the harborfront and stocked up on smoked-reindeer pate. A short walk took us to Senate Square, a broad, airy plaza surrounded by stately Neoclassical buildings. Climbing up 47 steps to the Helsinki Cathedral rewarded us with a lofty view.
Afterward we hired a Taksi Helsink to take us along the city's parklike esplanade and through the commercial district to the underground Temppeliaukio 'Rock' Church, which was hewn from solid rock.
A Finnish woman in period dress sells traditional items from the early 1900s at the Shopkeeper's Museum in Hamina, Finland.
Claudia Capos
The following day, the Sirena docked at Kotka, a seaside city on Finland's southeastern coast, which attracts visitors to its serene Sapokka Water Garden. An afternoon tour transported us to Hamina, a historical garrison town where Swedish and Russian military forces battled for centuries to gain control of the area. Today the restored Hamina bastion hosts outdoor beer festivals and car shows.
Over the next three days, we hit the Baltic's 'big three' ― Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. At each stop, we explored the lively Old Town districts, which beguiled us with their winding cobblestone streets, amber-jewelry boutiques, and pleasant outdoor cafes.
A symbolic metallic Christmas tree stands in front of the House of the Black Heads in Riga, Latvia.
Claudia Capos
Stiff winds and rain buffeted us as we scurried past flower stalls to the ancient, red-capped twin towers of the Viru Gate leading into Tallinn, Estonia's beautifully restored Old Town. The first thing we saw was ― you guessed it ― a McDonald's restaurant. Nearby, the aroma of roasted chestnuts lured us into the Olde Hansa Shoppe, where girls in medieval-style dresses sold handmade candles and soaps.
Advertisement
Just past Town Hall Square, we ducked into a gift shop to buy Russian-made Matryoshka nesting dolls. Was the Pakistani storekeeper worried about the Russians? 'Of course,' he replied. 'But we are safe for now. We have NATO.'
We asked directions to Toompea, the Upper Town, where centuries ago the feudal nobility walled off their elevated enclave from the Lower Town's hoi polloi. Pikk Jalg street led through an archway and up a steep cobblestone lane to the hilltop. There, sunbeams glinted off iron crosses on the five onion domes of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and burnished the façade of Toompea Castle, now a parliament building.
Medieval meets modern in Tallinn, Estonia's Old Town.
Claudia Capos
Riga, Latvia, a.k.a. the 'Paris of the Baltic,' has a special claim to fame. According to local lore, the tradition of decorating Christmas trees was started in 1510 by a guild of unmarried German merchants at the House of the Black Heads. After the Sirena navigated up the Daugava River to the port, we headed for the Old Town to find the famous landmark, which was bombed in World War II, but authentically rebuilt in 1999.
Entering through the Biskapa Gate, we stopped at the 13th-century Riga Cathedral to admire its eclectic architecture, massive pipe organ, and stained-glass windows. At the vast Dome Square, we saw black cats (the city's freedom symbol) and gargoyles perched atop restored Art Nouveau buildings.
Advertisement
After losing our way in the labyrinth of streets, we finally spotted the opulent red-brick façade of the Black Heads House. In front stood a symbolic metallic Christmas tree.
An artisan sells Baltic amber jewelry on Theatre Square in Klaipeda, Lithuania.
Claudia Capos
Klaipeda, Lithuania, appeared to be a work in progress, with construction crews scattered around the historical section. We browsed at artisans' stalls on Theatre Square and meandered along the tree-lined Dane River promenade past the majestic three-masted schooner Meridianas. Then we stumbled upon the Clock and Watch Museum. It was a hidden gem that traced the evolution of clock designs from ancient sundials to modern quartz-powered Swiss watches.
During our stop at Gdynia, Poland, we stepped back in history by exploring, from stem to stern, the last surviving World War II Polish naval destroyer, the ORP Blyskawica, now a fascinating museum ship. Nearby, we delved into the Baltic Sea's underwater life, coming eye to eye with its scaly inhabitants at the Gdynia Aquarium.
A World War II Polish naval destroyer now serves as a floating ship museum in Gdynia, Poland.
Claudia Capos
When the sea kicked up its heels that night, our ship changed course and docked at Malmo, Sweden, instead of Ronne, Denmark. Malmo's 'Turning Torso,' the world's first twisting residential skyscraper, dominated the shoreline. That day we explored the Old Town square and toured Malmohus Castle.
The Sirena arrived at the seaside resort town of Warnemunde, Germany, on Oct. 3, the Day of German Unity. We joined the throngs of German families who were commemorating the nation's reunification.
Families celebrate the Day of German Unity in the seaside resort town of Warnemunde, Germany.
Claudia Capos
It was one big party.
Revelers guzzled tall glasses of beer at outdoor cafes, snacked on fried fish at floating restaurants, and crowded into souvenir shops on the Am Strom promenade along the old shipping channel. We walked out to the gleaming white lighthouse and the broad strand, pausing to dig our toes in the beach sand.
Advertisement
The following day, we took an excursion to neighboring Schwerin and boarded a sightseeing boat on Lake Schwerin. As the morning mist lifted, the Schwerin 'Fairytale' Castle came into view. The sight of its gleaming towers and turrets mirrored in the opal-hued water took our breath away.
Once we docked, guides led us through the palace, which began as a 12th-century island fortress and was transformed into the lavish residence of the Grand Dukes of Mecklenburg-Schwerin in the mid-1800s. Today, the regally restored living quarters, state rooms, and church are adorned with priceless paintings, sculptures, and carved woodwork.
The following day, our cruise ended in Copenhagen. As we headed for the airport, fanciful visions of the Fairytale Castle still danced in our heads.
If you go …
Oceania Cruises offers Baltic cruises with various itineraries. For information on sailing dates and pricing, call 855-623-2642 or visit