How does Randwick's reborn and retro-fabulous 40-year-old institution rate with regulars?
Sommelier and restaurant manager Alice Tremayne offers a Hungarian and Eastern European-heavy wine list that doesn't skimp on by-the-glass options. Cocktails follow suit. Check the Corner Martini, made with rakia and Georgian gin. Service across the board is informed and relaxed, kind and calm. Unfamiliar with Hungarian food? They're here to help.
From the start, the challenge was not to alienate Corner 75's regulars while allowing the kitchen team, led day-to-day by Carley Scheidegger (formerly of Fred's in Paddington), to colour outside the lines. The process started by referencing outgoing owner Paul Varga's menu, well loved and unchanged for decades, and continued deep into legendary US-Hungarian restaurateur George Lang's 1980s cookbook, The Cuisine of Hungary.
For my part, I took my mate's dad Robert on one of my visits. He's Hungarian and has been eating at Corner 75 since the 𝄒70s. As much as I'd enjoyed myself previously, I wanted to see it through his eyes. Maybe what I liked about the reprisal was what he'd consider too much of a departure from the original.
Happily, Robert really enjoyed himself. The big difference to him is how elaborate the dishes are to look at now. Some of the mainstays we order aren't instantly recognisable, which he proves with a series of Google images of Hungarian cheese scones. Rich, short, crumbly and finished with a little garlic and honey glaze, it's an elevated take on a table staple. What of the flavour? 'It's good,' he says.
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