New twist to afternoon tea

The Star

2 days ago

A fresh experience awaits teatime patrons at the Horizon Grill, Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur. — Photos: YAP CHEE HONG/The Star
AFTERNOON tea in the hands of two acclaimed chefs can result in an experince that stands apart from the usual.
Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur's Horizon Grill and craftsmanship-driven pastry brand Texture Pâtisserie have come together to create a multi-sensory afternoon tea experience.
Horizon Grill's executive sous chef Francesco Fedrighi has worked with Textures founder, creative director and chef Chong Ko Wai to craft unexpected elements for teatime.
Their interpretation is part of 'Unfold: Textures on the Horizon'.
'We wanted to present a new version of afternoon tea that is elegant and playful.
'I first met Chong at an event several years ago and his work left a strong impression.
'When I started thinking about who could bring this concept to life, he came to mind and I gave him a call,' Fedrighi said.
Fedrighi (right) and Chong join forces to craft a modern take on afternoon tea.
Chong shared that the idea behind it was to elevate the simple act of having tea into an artistic ritual.
He wanted to celebrate ­flavour and the story behind each element.
'It's not just about serving sweets; it's about creating a sense of flow, offering a few surprises along the way and encouraging people to slow down and savour the moment,' he said.
Starting off the afternoon tea was Nordic Garden Tartlet, a flavourful bite that featured a crisp tart shell filled with smoked salmon and cucumber.
It was topped with fresh dill and ikura (fish roe) that brought a touch of freshness and a mild burst of briny flavour.
Next was Truffle Porcini Royale, in which the two types of mushrooms were layered over a savoury sable, finished with a touch of truffle essence.
The umami-rich dish featured a light mushroom foam with small bits of porcini and truffle shavings for texture.
A touch of green onion lent a fresh note that balanced the rich earthy flavours.
To complete the savouries, Golden Carbonara, a take on the classic pasta dish, was served in a hollowed egg shell.
Inside, a smooth egg mixture was paired with smoked duck guanciale and topped with grated parmesan.
It was finished with a crisp garnish of deepfried spaghetti for added texture.
Special attention was given to the order in which these dishes were enjoyed, as the food temperature played a key role in the overall experience.
Nordic Garden Tartlet (foreground), Truffle Porcini Royale (left, background) and Golden Carbonara.
The tartlet was served slightly chilled while the mushroom dish was presented warm and the carbonara was served hot.
The sweets portion of the meal was a trio of delicate and colourful desserts, each offering a playful quality.
The Macaron Matcha was an unexpected delight for this writer who does not typically enjoy macarons.
With each bite, there was a gentle touch of green tea flavor alongside the classic light, crisp texture of a macaron.
The slight bitterness of the matcha helped balance the sweetness of the meringue shell.
In the smooth matcha ganache filling hid a surprise; a centre of orange confit.
The acidic citrus added another brightness and contrast, making each bite more complex and refreshing.
Adding a more floral note was the Jasmine Berries that featured jasmine-infused mousse paired with strawberry compote and soft joconde sponge.
In contrast, the Nougatine was a rich dessert of almond and cocoa nib nougatine layered over dark chocolate sable, finished with a dark chocolate glaze.
Each bite took time, with the chewy nougatine providing a satisfying resistance that contrasted with the smooth richness of the chocolate and the crisp base beneath.
In a complete shift, the meal ended on a refreshing note with the desserts Apple Filo and Mango Yuzu Sorbet.
The Apple Filo featured delicate layers of crisp filo pastry, paired with apple jelly and whipped chantilly.
The Mango Yuzu Sorbet offered a tropical finish, with mango sorbet and mango-yuzu compote topped with airy yogurt espuma, and a pear-yuzu meringue for added texture and zing.
Unfold: Textures on the Horizon is available until July 31, from 3pm to 5pm.
It is priced at RM148nett per person, which includes a curated selection of coffee or tea.
HORIZON GRILL, Level 58, Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Conlay, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: [phone]) Business hours: 6.30am to 10.30am; noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10pm.
This is the writer's personal observation and not an endorsement by StarMetro.