Who needs the south of France when you've got Tynemouth?

Telegraph

18-05-2025

Who would have thought a modest north-eastern seaside town could outshine the monarch of British resorts, Scarborough, when it comes to beaches? Between them, Tynemouth and Whitley Bay boast a splendid four (Scarborough has just two), stretching north from the mouth of the Tyne. Technically, their town centres are two miles apart – with little Cullercoats tucked in between – but they flow together so seamlessly, you'd hardly notice.
It was the arrival of the railways in 1882 that transformed these once-industrial towns – reliant on coal, fish and salt – into popular seaside resorts. Tynemouth, with its Georgian terraces and the imposing Victorian Grand Hotel overlooking Longsands beach, was considered the more upmarket end.
Whitley Bay, by contrast, offered a livelier scene: amusement arcades, a caravan park and the famous Spanish City – think a miniature Taj Mahal housing everything from a menagerie to a bingo hall. But with the rise of cheap European package holidays, the area's fortunes declined. Spanish City fell into dereliction after several failed revivals, while stag and hen parties took to its more dubious nightclubs.
In the 2010s, however, serious investment sparked a sea change. Whitley Bay's promenade and Spanish City were restored, the Grand Hotel was refurbished, hipster cafés and restaurants appeared, and ITV's Vera showcased both the beauty – and murderous perils – of the coastline. A new beachside cycle path linking the communities is now under construction, though not everyone is thrilled about it.
What's it really like
It's a seaside resort that's embraced café culture and buffing up its appearance while not forgetting the traditional essentials of sea, sand and – if not guaranteed sun – sunny optimism. There's a slew of breezy cafes offering barista coffees and brunch; a sparkly pink-flagged promenade with elegantly arched lamp-posts; neatly parked ice-cream vans; and tidily decorated hot drink and snack stalls.
As I stroll along Whitley Bay, Cullercoats, Longsands and King Edward's Bay on a sunny spring morning, the lawn-roller-flat sands are alive with locals – dog-walking, running, even swimming – while the many benches on the grassy slopes above are busy with people chatting, taking phone calls and sipping coffee.
And this is what's so striking: it's a neighbourly community first, and seaside resort second. 'Sometimes around five o'clock, we think 'wine o'clock',' says Stephen Mimms who, with his partner Neil McWhirter, runs No 61, a smart Georgian guest house (with weekend tea-room) on Tynemouth's Front Street. 'And go across the street to Alan and Linda, who run [wine merchants] Chambers, for a glass of wine in the garden. Everybody knows everybody.'
It's certainly friendly. At Pirate Quest, I'm given a free go on the final test of the treasure-hunt maze. This involves walking the plank across a pool of water – don't sneer; the plank is narrow, and there's a crocodile – and I'm rewarded with (chocolate) gold coins for my efforts. As with the other family-friendly attractions – including a dinosaur-themed crazy golf course – it's not a hi-tech affair. But, frankly, most people are getting their kicks from the great outdoors.
Around the tidal causeway to St Mary's Lighthouse, at the north of Whitley Bay beach, serious work is being done amongst the exposed rock-pools. Neon-coloured fishing nets are being deployed to examine snails, crabs and, in one case, a dead ray. 'Please put it back,' cries one exasperated dad.
From the platform at the base of the lighthouse, all eyes are trained on the surrounding rocks. Some of the rocks are moving, generally in an ungainly, flip-floppy way: the distinctive waddle as a grey seal heaves itself out of, or into, the water. This is a favourite resting spot for the seals whose home is further up the Northumberland coast.
A favourite – and fabled – rendezvous for Tyneside folk was Spanish City, immortalised by local band Dire Straits in their 1980 hit Tunnel of Love. This preposterous Dulux-white domed building, opened in 1910 as an entertainment complex, boasted the largest dome in Britain after St Paul's Cathedral. Rescued in 2018 with a £10 million investment after numerous failed business ventures, it's now rather lovely to stand inside and admire – even if you don't fancy anything from its many food and drink outlets.
Possibly the best viewpoint is from Tynemouth Priory and Castle, with the mouth of the River Tyne on one side and the Northumberland coast on the other. Below lies the curve of King Edward's Bay. Even at 5pm, it's bubbling with life: picnickers, sun-worshippers, footballers, and swimmers striking out into the hazy blue. At the back, smoke curls from Riley's Fish Shack, where someone is ordering another bottle of wine. It would take very little persuasion to believe I'm on the south coast of France.
What's not to like
If you're looking for fairground rides, bingo halls and competing amusement arcades, you'll be disappointed. There are only two amusement arcades, both in Whitley Bay, both bright, clean and not especially busy.
A couple of places sell seaside paraphernalia but are so neat and low-key as to almost apologise for their presence. Indeed, the charmingly named For the Love of the North gift shop in Spanish City, is more artisan than souvenir with well-designed items – tea-towels good enough to frame – that are determinedly locally made. Brash and tacky are hard to find.
Do this
Save plenty of time for Tynemouth Market. Held every weekend at the Victorian station, its dozens of stalls range from the conventional – hand-made jewellery, painted ceramics – to the esoteric: aura crystals, books on world religions.
The Undertones' Teenage Kicks blares from a loudspeaker, drawing me to racks of vinyl – vintage Bowie, Moody Blues, Genesis… Then it's on to bric-a-brac: do I need a set of silver pastry forks? Enamel advertising signs, upcycled cushion covers, earrings, books – and somehow, I find myself back at the vinyl.
Eat this
Few fish and chip restaurants can match the grandeur of Trenchers. From the ground floor of Spanish City, encircled by white pillars, diners gaze up at the luminous-white interior of the dome with its elliptical windows, elegant balustrades and gilt-painted garlands. Start the evening in the first-floor Champagne Bar before ordering your fish, battered or floured, and small, regular or large (mains average £18).
Alternatively, head down 119 steps to Riley's Fish Shack on the sands of King Edward's Bay. Operating from two shipping containers, it serves up fresh seafood – with menus dictated by that morning's catch – cooked with lip-smacking panache over a charcoal grill: think chilli fish empanada with salsa verde or the ever-popular monkfish tail wrap. Pull up a deckchair, toes in the sand, or settle on the decking (dishes average £11–£26).
Don't do this
Looking down on its concrete surface, scattered with sand and rocks, it's hard to imagine this was once one of Tynemouth's premier attractions. Built in 1925, the former seawater lido featured a fountain at one end and space for 2,000 sunbathers on its terraces. Closed in 1990, it was – bizarrely – filled with concrete by the council. Now home to seagulls, empty cans and crisp packets, no one can pretend it's anything other than an eyesore. A vigorous campaigning group has drawn up plans for its revival. Just don't go diving in it… yet.
From a local
'Tynemouth is the best [surf] beach on the north-east coast for its wave quality and consistency,' explains Louis Thomas-Hudson, 28, owner of Tynemouth Surf Co. 'In Cornwall, Newquay is a surfing hot-spot, but I find it too busy, too chaotic. Tynemouth is more relaxed. Within five minutes, I can walk to nice bars and cafes; I don't have to track into Newcastle to find them.'
'It feels like a community,' say Nicholas and Cath Leon who moved to Whitley Bay from Newcastle in 2001 to bring up their daughter. 'There's a vibrant, positive feel with lots of independent shops and cafes. We like walking along the beach to Cullercoats for breakfast.'
From a visitor
'We didn't know what to expect,' says Darrin Woodfield on a first visit to Tynemouth with his partner, Chi Lam, from their home in Bournemouth. 'We're surprised how smart-looking it is. There's a classy feel which is not always the case in seaside places. Bournemouth relies on beaches but there's more history here.'
'We've done lots of coasts – Norfolk, Dorset, Cornwall – but some of the best are here,' declares Steph who, with husband Steve and daughter Thea, aged 9, are skating along Whitley Bay promenade on a day-trip from Northumberland. 'I like the friendly people and the way dog-friendly beaches are separated from family-friendly.' As they skate off, Steve cries: 'Who needs Venice Beach?!'
Helen Pickles was a guest of No 61, a Georgian townhouse b&b and weekend tearoom, in central Tynemouth (doubles from £130 b&b). Further information at visitnorthtyneside.com.