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Locally sauced

Locally sauced

The Star13-07-2025
PASSIONATE and adventurous, Chef James Won once dove into a river in a remote village in Sarawak for the 'best ingredients'.
It was in the wee hours, when the waters were calm. Won was foraging for mussels and wanted to have them fresh for his next meal. Suddenly, splashes disturbed the calm river. Much to his surprise, several villagers stood on the riverside behind him, throwing rocks into the water a few metres away.
'They told me they were throwing rocks to deter some crocodiles away. I guess I would wade into the dangers of the unknown for food,' Won quipped to a group of reporters recently.
Won's experience with the locals reflects the warmth and generosity that define Sarawakians – much like the food they serve, they're rich in flavour and full of heart.
Hailing from a small Hakka new village in Jinjang, Selangor, Won has long championed food as a powerful force that brings people together.
In fact, he is now leading the 'Serumpun Sarawak' campaign, which aims to highlight Sarawak's gastronomical delights to the world.
Won says food can be a vessel of dignity. — Agencies
'We want to ensure that Sarawak's culinary traditions, from foraged jungle greens and smoked river fish, to the ceremonial use of bamboo and stone, are not just remembered, but respected, revitalised and reimagined.
'We believe that food can be a vessel of dignity. That in every indigenous technique, every heirloom ingredient, every community gathering, lies an opportunity to uplift, educate and empower.'
The effort is also part of the state's broader push for sustainable tourism, which among others entails conserving resources, respecting local cultures and creating jobs for local residents.
Food for thought
Sarawak's tourism campaign to highlight its culinary wonders is a declaration of the region's powerful affirmation that indigenous heritage, culinary identity and creative spirit deserve their rightful place on the world stage.
'And not as novelties, but as benchmarks of excellence,' says Sarawak Tourism, Creative Industry and Performing Arts Minister Datuk Seri Abdul Karim Rahman Hamzah, who also heads the region's youth, sports and entrepreneur development portfolio.
He says Serumpun Sarawak's vision will be showcased in Osaka, Japan from Aug 5 to 8, as part of the global celebration surrounding World Expo 2025.
'There, amidst innovation from across the planet, the world will get a taste of not just Sarawak's cuisine, but also its identity. Its design. Its way of life.'
Traditional Sarawak snack tumpik. — Bernama
Abdul Karim says Serumpun Sarawak also reflects the region's deepening commitment to sustainable tourism, which strives to balance between the needs of tourists and local communities.
'These are not just events on a calendar. They are a journey. A journey that shows Sarawak's culinary and cultural expressions are not meant to be preserved behind glass – they are living, breathing and ready to shape the global narrative.
'But journeys are never built in isolation. 'Serumpun Sarawak' is a triumph of collaboration. It brings together chefs, farmers, artisans, storytellers, designers and communities. It is a beautiful reminder that when Sarawakians come together – when we walk as one – we create something powerful, enduring and extraordinary.'
Coffee and nuts
A vivid example of how food and sustainability converge in Sarawak is the rearing of the empurau fish – a prized catch that also boosts local livelihoods.
Gastronomical delight: The empurau fish is a prized catch in Sarawak. — ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/THE STAR
Won says the empurau's distinctive taste comes from its diet of buah engkabang, or illipe nuts. These nuts are key to its famously fatty, fragrant flavour.
'This is why the fish costs so much (it is reported that it can fetch up to more than RM1,500 per kilo).'
However, engkabang trees fruit unpredictably.
'Since the empurau has become more and more popular, more farmers and horticulturists have taken up engkabang husbandry (to produce the nuts) to feed the empurau. These are among the many interesting things taking place in Sarawak.'
In the highlands, coffee cultivation is also getting attention.
Raven Kwok, co-founder of Earthlings Coffee Workshop, says Malaysia is one of the few countries in the world cultivating liberica, a rare coffee bean prized for its smoky, bold and sometimes fruity flavour.
'The country is often overshadowed by other coffee producers including Indonesia. But liberica can put us back on the map.'
Kwok says liberica coffee bean can put Malaysia on the map. — YAP CHEE HONG/The Star
—Earthlings Coffee Workshop
He points to promising efforts in Long Banga in Marudi district – deep in the heart of Borneo – where locals are turning to liberica as a high-value crop.
'It's difficult for them to sell fresh produce in a (competitive) market. So growing coffee makes sense, since it's a non-threshold commodity (it doesn't spoil quickly or require refrigeration),' says Kwok.
Coffee cultivation is getting attention in the Sarawak highlands. —Earthlings Coffee Workshop
Balancing act
Still, with Sarawak's tourism efforts gaining traction, questions arise about how to avoid the pitfalls of over-tourism.
Abdul Karim admits this is a growing concern, citing the experiences of Venice and Bali – where unchecked tourism caused rental and food prices to soar, hurting locals.
'We will work to prevent (the tourism in Sarawak) from reaching to such a state. That is the reason why, when we carry out promotions, we are careful in terms of (targeting) the kind of visitors we are inviting to the country.'
He says tourist education and regulation are crucial, especially in sensitive natural areas.
'We want tourists who can appreciate the beauty of Sarawak's nature. Not the ones who want to spoil our nature, culture and heritage.'
Abdul Karim: 'We want tourists who can appreciate the beauty of Sarawak's nature. Not the ones who want to spoil our nature, culture and heritage.' — ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE / The Star
Asked whether increased global demand for Sarawakian cuisine could lead to a rise in ingredient prices, he remains confident.
'Presently, we are not worried. Even if it affects (the prices), we will know how to make the necessary adjustments. This is so that the locals will not feel the pinch.'
On Serumpun Sarawak's upcoming showcase in Osaka, the Sarawak Tourism Board says the event will be hosted at Seaside Studio Caso and introduce Japanese and international audiences to the depth and diversity of Sarawak's indigenous cuisines, ingredients and creative expressions.
'Through curated dining experiences, visual storytelling and cultural showcases, Osaka will offer a window into Sarawak's soul – a vibrant confluence of land, people and culinary heritage.'
The international debut will be followed by a community-based activation at Unesco world heritage site Mulu National Park.
Serumpun Sarawak will be held at the Unesco world heritage-listed Mulu National Park in October. —EDDIE CHUA/The Star
'In October 2025, the journey will host a site-specific experience within the park itself, blending indigenous culinary traditions, ecological appreciation and cultural storytelling in one of the world's most awe-inspiring environments.
'The Mulu activation reflects Serumpun Sarawak's commitment to ensuring that global recognition is always grounded in respect for local communities, biodiversity, and indigenous knowledge systems.'
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Milestones: Sarawak's bold ascent by air, sea and financial power
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Milestones: Sarawak's bold ascent by air, sea and financial power

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Niche live events could be the way to go for Malaysia

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'Tumpik', traditional Melanau pancake that delights the palate
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'Tumpik', traditional Melanau pancake that delights the palate

Tumpik is made from sago flour and grated coconut, with a bit of salt added to enhance the flavour. 20 Jul 2025 11:00am Tumpik, a traditional Sarawak delicacy, once served as a staple during the British colonial era. More than just a snack, it can be enjoyed with various fillings such as shrimp, fish, and gula apong (palm sugar), as showcased during the launch of Serumpun Sarawak. Photo by Bernama BEHIND its crispy exterior and chewy interior, tumpik - a traditional pancake from Sarawak made from sago and coconut - is rarely featured in the mainstream culinary scene. According to Sarawak-born chef Laura Bara Sim, this ethnic dish from the Melanau community may appear simple in terms of ingredients and appearance but it carries deep cultural and historical value. Sim, who actively promotes Sarawak's culinary heritage, said tumpik is made from sago flour and grated coconut, with a bit of salt added to enhance the flavour. "It has a slightly salty and creamy taste of coconut, with a chewy inside and a crispy outer layer. Simple but delicious,' she told Bernama recently after a cooking demonstration held in conjunction with a press conference on 'Serumpun Sarawak', a cultural and gastronomy exhibition to spotlight Sarawak's indigenous food heritage and organised by the Ministry of Tourism, Creative Industry and Performing Arts Sarawak and the Sarawak Tourism Board. Sarawak Minister of Tourism, Creative Industry and Performing Arts Datuk Seri Abdul Karim Rahman Hamzah (second from left) prepares a traditional Sarawak dish called Tumpik, guided by Chef Laura Bara Sim during the launch of Serumpun Sarawak at a hotel recently. Photo by Bernama The chef, who is of mixed Iban and Bidayuh descent, also noted that one of the unique aspects of tumpik is that no oil is used in its preparation; instead, it is cooked on a non-stick pan. "The sago and coconut mixture just needs to be lightly pressed onto the pan and left to cook slowly. Once the bottom turns crispy, that's the sign that the tumpik is ready to be served,' she said. Once a staple food, especially during the British colonial era in Sarawak, tumpik can be eaten as it is or with added fillings such as shrimp or fish, or palm sugar. "Sago trees are abundant in Sarawak, so the people there produce flour from the trunks and turn it into various foods. "In Peninsular Malaysia, the Sarawak dishes people often hear about are usually Sarawak laksa or ayam pansuh. But tumpik remains relatively unknown, possibly because it is rarely sold commercially,' she said. She believes that tumpik could become one of Sarawak's iconic dishes, much like Sarawak layer cake and laksa, if given wider promotion at food festivals, cafes or hotels. Tumpik, a traditional Sarawak delicacy, once served as a staple during the British colonial era. More than just a snack, it can be enjoyed with various fillings such as shrimp, fish, and gula apong (palm sugar), as showcased during the launch of Serumpun Sarawak. Photo by Bernama "In addition to its great taste, one of the strengths of tumpik is its easily available ingredients and simple preparation process, making it a suitable choice for breakfast or afternoon tea or as a light snack at home,' she said. She also said that as one of over 160 Sarawak dishes to be showcased at 'Serumpun Sarawak' in Osaka, Japan, from Aug 5 to 8, tumpik reflects the unique identity of the Melanau people and their adaptation to natural resources, especially the sago tree, which thrives in coastal areas. She added that the initiative to bring Sarawak food to the international stage not only introduces Borneo's gastronomic culture to the world but also opens up opportunities for local entrepreneurs to explore the commercial potential of this underrepresented ethnic heritage. - BERNAMA More Like This

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