Cascale Spells Out Why Manufacturers Are Critical to Movement on Climate Goals
When it comes to sustainability, moving the needle on manufacturing is a critical part of making progress—particularly because Scope 3 emissions account for so much of the fashion and apparel industry's footprint.
At Sourcing Journal's Sustainability Summit in New York, Chris Marshall, director of transparency at Cascale, joined Jasmin Malik Chua, Sourcing Journal's sourcing and labor editor, to discuss the organization's future goals, the need for brand investment in greener manufacturing, the importance of making good on climate commitments and more.
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Marshall said Cascale works toward two main goals: combating climate change and fostering and advancing responsible purchasing practices.
To make progress toward each of those goals, Cascale has inked partnerships with other industry organizations charged with tackling climate issues. By doing so, Marshall said, Cascale has been able to focus on what it does best: helping Tier 1, Tier 2 and Tier 3 suppliers with their footprints and goals.
'We all know that this industry doesn't need another decarbonization program, so we haven't done that,' he said, noting that Cascale has partnered with the Apparel Impact Institute (Aii) and Reset Carbon to advance existing work they're doing around facility-level climate solutions.
'What we want to do at Cascale is, we want to partner that with brand commitment, commitment to these low-carbon sourcing manufacturers so that they can continue to invest…in these climate solutions. They have extremely extensive decarbonization roadmaps, and we just want to make sure that, we as brands, that we're supporting them on their journey,' Marshall said.
That interest in supporting manufacturers has become a core piece of Cascale's mission; in February, the organization acquired the Better Buying Institute (BBI), which helps brands understand how they can make more responsible purchasing decisions to positively impact their suppliers and the workers within those facilities.
'Our visions are aligned, and I think today, it's a great opportunity for us, not only to expand our capabilities…but it's also to signal to the industry that, here at Cascale, we're very serious about representing the manufacturing [industry's] voice and advancing responsible purchasing practices across the consumer goods industry,' he said.
Part of truly supporting manufacturers comes with investing in their progress toward more sustainable outcomes, Marshall said. He further noted that, in conversations with manufacturers, he has determined that happens when brands help their suppliers purchase the necessary equipment to make significant progress.
'I had many conversations with prominent Tier 2 manufacturers—predominantly textile mills. I think the common point across all of these manufacturers is that all of the low-hanging fruit in regards to advancing climate has been picked,' he said. 'If we are going…to make any strides toward our targets, it's going to require huge capex expenditures….I don't think favorable financing terms [are] the answer to us hitting our targets, by any means. These manufacturers are not looking for more debt, at all.'
The industry has long heralded sustainability legislation as a way forward in the fashion and apparel industry. But in some jurisdictions, progress has been slow—and in the United States, President Donald Trump's administration has made it clear that climate is unlikely to be a priority.
But the U.S. isn't the only area that remains top of mind for the industry. Marshall called the 'watering down' of the European Union's Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) 'a real shame,' but noted that it is unlikely to change the goals of companies truly interested in advancing their sustainability goals.
'I'm a true believer that good businesses out there that are doing good—meaning trying to become more sustainable—need the rules to change in order to level the playing field. But I also believe that those that were doing good will continue to do so, so it's not going to all drop at the change of a hand. These brands and manufacturers have extensive decarbonization roadmaps that they're working against, and that's not going to change drastically.'
Cascale hopes to see the commitments brands and manufacturers make continue—and even increase. Early on in the conversation, Marshall noted that, to walk back on commitments 'could be deemed as being irresponsible.' Instead, he urged, it's the right time to accelerate efforts, even if regulation doesn't demand it.
'My real call to action for the industry is for companies to start to take some of this green transition into their own hands,' he said. 'In the fashion industry, we put a lot of onus on the consumer to drive us through this green transition. But you can see, year after year, they're not spending more on sustainability. It's now the opportunity for us as companies…to really start helping power that transition.'
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