Integrating AI into the organisational structure: Are companies at Pitti ready?

Fashion United

27-06-2025

Global spending on artificial intelligence (AI) is expected to more than double by 2028, reaching 632 billion dollars, according to the International Data Corporation (IDC) Worldwide AI and Generative AI Spending Guide. Additionally, as Jorge Amar, senior partner at McKinsey, highlights in a report, "we are entering a world where we will have to think of our workforce as both agency-driven and human". Incorporating virtual AI-based workers with specific roles, usernames and corporate passwords into the organisational structure
This means that, in the near future, virtual AI-based workers with specific roles, individual "memories", usernames and corporate passwords could be "incorporated" into the company.
This prospect imposes, from the outset, the need for harmonisation between man and machine, to favour the adoption and integration of AI, which to date has produced tangible business results and values for companies worldwide. Toniolo (Valsport): We have not encountered any obstacles from employees in the adoption of AI
But what is the current state of AI in fashion companies and what is the approach of managers to this revolutionary innovation? For Siro Toniolo, chairman of Rewind srl, a company that already operates in footwear production and which, in 2016, acquired Valsport, "our employees are used to using artificial intelligence; we have a communication system with programmes created ad hoc".
"For now, therefore, we have not encountered any obstacles to the adoption of these innovative technologies," adds the chairman of the sports shoe brand, whose foundation dates back to 1920.
At Valsport, AI is adopted primarily for e-commerce, "it supports us in the process, from when the order arrives to shipping". In other cases, with regard to research and stylistic analysis, for example, it is used, but it needs the intervention of the stylist, the professional.
"The product has to be tried on, it has to be worn, the intervention of the modeller is needed," explains Toniolo, adding that the beauty of handcrafted footwear production also lies in the imperfection and uniqueness that is obtained when it is the artisan's hand that creates the product. Tamponi (Sebago and Superga): Openings of shoemaking schools are more desirable than AI learning modules
Along the same lines, Marco Tamponi, global brand director of Sebago and Superga, said: "Our product is entirely hand-stitched, made by humans; those who make shoes create them with the lasts because you also have to see what the reaction of the materials is."
The global brand director of two of the BasicNet Group brands, which, in addition to Superga and Sebago, also owns Kappa, Robe di Kappa, Jesus Jeans, Sabelt, Briko and K-Way, adds: "We use artificial intelligence for content development." According to Tamponi, in the field of production, openings of shoemaking schools are more desirable than artificial intelligence development and learning modules. AI agents can go beyond content creation to perform tasks based on specific instructions
In short, at least in Made in Italy companies, for now the appearance of an organisational chart that includes AI agents alongside human brand colleagues does not seem imminent. Some companies, McKinsey experts warn, are already moving in this direction. AI agents can go beyond content creation to perform tasks based on specific instructions.
"Agents perceive reality through their training, then make their own decisions and apply judgement, act and even learn from those actions," explains Amar. Among the business segments involved in experimenting with agency AI, for example, are the initial screening of all candidates for frontline jobs or the deployment of agents to train employees.
Returning to fashion, on the other hand, content and e-commerce are the two main destinations for the use of artificial intelligence, also at La Martina. "We use artificial intelligence a great deal to manage processes related to e-commerce and customer service," Alessandro Milia, general manager of sales and marketing at La Martina, explained to FashionUnited.
"Another use is in the area of content," stressed the manager of the company, which has carried out a specific reorganisation of the sales network in Italy, accompanied by the entry of new international partners. No help from AI, however, in the field of creativity and production. Tod's preserves tradition and promotes innovation at the same time
Among the Italian fashion brands that "defend" production and creativity from the incursions of artificial intelligence agents is Tod's.
About one month ago, Diego Della Valle, chairman of the Tod's Group, received the 'Changemaker Award for Craftsmanship' at the third edition of the Changemakers in Luxury Fashion event, organised by the Italian National Chamber of Fashion. The award celebrates his commitment to placing artisanal excellence and product quality at the heart of the group's identity in the Marche region, preserving tradition while promoting innovation, and passing on artisanal knowledge to new generations through initiatives such as the Bottega dei Mestieri. This vision is what Della Valle defines as 'Artisanal Intelligence', a fusion of human skill, cultural heritage and creativity projected towards the future, which continues to inspire the success and sustainability of Made in Italy.
"Craftsmanship is the true essence of Italian luxury: a heritage made of hands, time and knowledge that cannot be replicated. It is a national value for Italy and must be protected and enhanced through concrete investments, starting with the training of young people," noted Della Valle during a video intervention at the Changemakers in Luxury Fashion event. This article was translated to English using an AI tool.
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