
The untouched paradise Spanish island with 27C heat, amazing outdoor activities, natural wonders & beautiful beaches
A CSO survey in May 2022 showed that almost half of respondents had taken up an outdoor activity since lockdown, whether it be hill walking, hiking, running or sea swimming.
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Niamh taking a walk in Anaga Rural Park, Tenerife
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Teide National Park is home to Spain's highest peak
Credit: Getty Images - Getty
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Tenerife and La Gomera have hundreds of kilometres of hiking trails
Credit: Getty Images - Getty
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Beautiful beaches are to be expected
In
Away from the more populated south, the north of Tenerife, the largest of the islands, is covered by mountains and ancient forests.
Our group set out just a few minutes from the island's capital, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, in the Anaga Rural Park, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve.
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An oasis of green, this park is home to diverse flora and fauna. If you want an enchanted forest trail or a coastal hike, this 14,500-hectare nature sanctuary has got you covered.
There are beautiful viewing points all over the park. My favourite was Pico de los Ingles, a stone platform that offers sweeping views of the Anaga massif and the ocean beyond.
Access to the park is via the charming town of San Cristobal de La Laguna, the island's original capital, which is now a Unesco World Heritage site due to its pretty colonial architecture.
We stopped in for lunch at Restaurant El Guaydil and chatted over delicious croquettes, local cheese and Canarian tomato salad, washed down with local wine.
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Fed and watered, we ventured on to another World Heritage site, Teide National Park, home to Mount Teide,
The park's volcanic terrain sees jagged rock formations cast long shadows, while craters pockmark the lunar-like landscape.
Spanish island reveals plans for huge new £4.8billion train routes – connecting beach holiday hotspots
It can be explored by day via a series of hiking trails, but be sure to stay for sunset and enjoy a cosmic display as the night sky comes alive.
Mount Teide and its peaks are certified as a Starlight Tourist Destination as the clear skies make this one of the best spots in the world for stargazing. And the nocturnal beauty of this park is truly captivating.
The next day we stepped off the beaten path even further and took a 45-minute ferry trip from Tenerife's port in Los Cristianos to the second smallest of the Canary Islands, La Gomera.
NATURAL WONDER
Another Unesco Biosphere Reserve, the island is a natural volcanic wonder. It is circular in shape, with mountains and valleys that extend to the sea, forming beaches perfect for a refreshing dip along the 100km of coastline.
The climate is warm and mild all year round — around 18C in winter and 27C in summer.
The higher slopes in the centre of the island are made up of ancient sub-tropical laurel forests, so it's misty and lush, while the lower valleys are filled with banana groves and palm trees, from which the island's scrumptious palm honey is made.
Tomatoes, mangos, papayas, guavas, pumpkins, cucumbers, figs, dates and chestnuts grow on terraced mountainsides that make up striking geometric patterns. And the abundance of grapes makes for delicious wine.
To navigate these terraces, farmers carved out more than 600km of inland trails, forming a network of paths that take you just about anywhere on the island.
TOP TRAILS
Nowadays, these trails are hugely popular with hikers as they are well marked, the landscape is diverse and the views are breathtaking.
There are seven trails for cyclists, too. Hiring a car is the best way to travel from town to town via the coastal road.
We made our way from the port in the capital of San Sebastian to the beautiful scenery of the Hermigua Valley and on to Agulo, known as the 'Green Balcony' of La Gomera.
Agulo is a sleepy, picturesque town overlooking the ocean, with whitewashed houses with coloured tiles.
It is the perfect place to stop for a barraquito — the Canarian signature drink of coffee, liquor, condensed milk, cinnamon and lemon (it's like a warm, fuzzy feeling in a glass) — and a stroll around the cobbled streets in the mid-morning sun.
POINT OF VIEW
What is remarkable about this little island is how much the landscape changes as you move around. A short drive from Agulo is the Mirador de Abrante viewpoint.
This panoramic glass viewing platform juts out from the clifftop, so you feel suspended as you marvel at the green valley hundreds of feet below. Yet the soil around you is bright red and more akin to the surface of Mars.
Fifty shades of green
The next village along was Vallehermoso, which means 'beautiful valley'.
We refuelled at El Carracha, a restaurant that was doing a roaring trade for local Sunday lunchers. We tucked into a juicy Canarian tomato salad, salty black potatoes (an island speciality) and delicious fresh fish.
FIFTY SHADES OF GREEN
As we drove on another 15 minutes, again the scenery changed before we arrived at the jewel of La Gomera — El Cedro forest, in Garajonay National Park.
The hiking routes take you past 30-metre-tall trees forming canopies that are fifty shades of green. With so much mist and condensation, the soothing sound of running water pervades the air.
Then it was one last stop for the day in Valle Gran Rey, another picture postcard town right on the water. The dark volcanic sand beaches were unspoiled and, like so much of the island, virtually deserted.
Travellers to La Gomera represent one per cent of the total number of visitors to the Canaries, making it the perfect destination for nature lovers who want a secret slice of paradise and not to bump into anyone from home — so be a trailblazer and hit those Canarian trails.
GO: TENERIFE
GET THERE: Fly to Tenerife South with
STAY THERE: Bancal Hotel & Spa, La Gomera, from €170 per night. Tivoli La Caleta, Tenerife, from €220 per night.
DO THERE: Surfing lesson with Tenerife Surf Point (tenerifesurf.es). Whale watching and catch the sunset at sea (bigsmilecharters.com).
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The Mirador de Abrante viewpoint is a must-visit attraction
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The hidden gem paradise island of La Gomera
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