AFW DAY 2: Lee Mathews, Joseph & James, Beare Park Make Their Mark
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA – MAY 13: Models walk the runway during the Lee Mathews show at Australian Fashion Week (AFW) 2025 at Carriageworks on May 13, 2025 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by)
Day two of Australian Fashion Week 2025 was packed with homegrown fashion talent in their element.
Leading the schedule was Lee Mathews, who celebrated 25 years in business with an intimate show at Sydney's Carriageworks, while other favourites, including Beare Park and NAGNATA, presented new collections in grand and moody settings.
Elsewhere, menswear label Joseph & James effectively stole the show with its solo debut, with an exceptionally refined approach to casualwear and a joyous colour palette we haven't stopped thinking about.
For the full collection dispatches from on the ground at AFW, read on. Lee Mathews
At AFW, Lee Mathews marked 25 years with a Resort '26 collection that was inspired by the art of ballet: intimate, disciplined, and softly powerful. 'There's a tension I love,' said Mathews, referencing the contrast of strength and softness in Pina Bausch's choreography—her point of inspiration. 'That contrast of strength and softness.' That tension underpinned the show, where diaphonous fabrics met solid and structured tailoring, corsetry lines met relaxed silhouettes, and every layer moved with an enchanting restraint.
Set against draped calico—a raw canvas evoking the brand's enduring love for natural fibres—in Carriagework's mezzanine, the runway felt deeply grounded, with models gliding to a René Aubry score, composed for dance and theatre. After two decades, Mathews' philosophy remains: 'make good things,' and here, good meant garments that live with you—ageless, beautiful and always useful.
The tonal palette—stone, skin, water, light—allowed form and fabrication to shine. Subtle stitchwork, custom fabrics, and Nina Walton's rhythmic prints brought a natural serenity to pieces. Behind the scenes, collaborations with artisans and heritage mills were matched by a fresh partnership with Delta Global, underscoring Mathews' enduring commitment to sustainability.
Community took centre stage at the show as friends like Saskia Havekes and Alexia Spalding walked the runway, while Nigella Lawson, Maggie Beer and Miranda Otto watched from the front row. The natural, sun-kissed skin look—courtesy of RATIONALE and Linda Jefferyes—mirrored the garments' bucolic lightness, as did the tousled hair by Kevin Murphy.
Resort '26 is a love letter to where Lee Mathews has been and where it's going: an evolving practice in thoughtful design and artistic integrity. At its heart is the radical commitment to design that is at once simple and significant—an art that lives on long after the show.
Beare Park
In a darkened room pierced by a dramatic light on the runway, Beare Park's AFW '25 show unfolded with cinematic drama. The presentation, soundtracked by a haunting original score by Gary Sinclair of Tactile Music, marked a confident evolution for the Sydney-based label, known for its cerebral approach to modern femininity. 'A continuing theme with Beare Park collections from day one has been the duality of structured tailoring and fluid silk pieces—high-quality fabric is always at the centre of each collection,' founder Gabriella Pereira tells GRAZIA. 'This collection was no exception in that sourcing fabrics was my starting point, and the consideration of the intersection of intimacy and power through fabric.'
This season, this consideration became bolder, with silhouettes and cuts that laid bare the material, enabling garments to shine. From precision-cut double-breasted coats and sculptural culottes to sheer slip dresses and dupion silk track shorts, there was a clarity to each look that emphasised the craft behind it. The collection's palette—a moody blend of burgundy, mottled charcoal, deep chocolate and chartreuse—reflected this duality of fluidity meeting solid forces.
Pereira's partnership with Chopard added luminous punctuation: stacks of Ice Cube bracelets in ethical gold and L'Heure du Diamant watches worn as jewellery gave the collection a subtle flash of heritage glamour. 'Their craftsmanship and respect for form mirrors our ethos,' Pereira noted.
The set may have been pared back—black walls, no distractions—but there was a weight to the simplicity, a clarity of intent that echoed throughout the 30-look show. Styled by Nichhia Wippell, with beauty by Emma Lewisham led by Isabella Schimid, the mood was confident, sensual, and sharply modern.
'I think of myself as a customer before a designer,' continued Pereira. 'The purpose of a Beare Park garment is to be comfortable, functional and give the wearer a newfound sense of power.'
JOSEPH & JAMES
At this year's AFW, a new chapter in Australian menswear was written as JOSEPH & JAMES, helmed by Juanita Page—a proud Gooreng Gooreng and South Sea Islander woman—made a grand solo debut. With her inaugural show, Gathering, the designer made a powerful entry into the schedule, with a collection rooted in emotion, memory and connection. 'This collection is a celebration of togetherness—of what it means to gather, to connect, to be present,' said Page.
From the moment a soundtrack of laughter, conversation and music filled the space, along with a warm, custom fragrance by Scent Australia Home, the show promised sincerity and soul—and delivered in spades. Relaxed tailoring met intricate knitwear; refined suiting in brushed herringbone and lightweight linen flowed alongside joyful bursts of colour—bright green, cabernet red, pastel purple—each hue coming together in a highly satisfying array of combinations that spoke to Page's deep understanding of balance.
The 20-look, 58-piece collection was walked by a cast and styling direction powered by Mob in Fashion, the First Nations-led initiative by model Nathan McGuire. 'Mob in Fashion is about creating real, tangible opportunities for the next generation of Indigenous creatives,' said McGuire.
From the streetwise elegance of Reebok footwear to the undone ease of ELEVEN Australia's textured hair and Clarins skin, the styling echoed the collection's guiding sentiment: ease, authenticity, and care.
'Every piece is designed with that spirit in mind, drawing on moments around the table with belly full and heart happy,' said Page. '[It's] places where stories are shared and memories are made.'
topics: AFW 2025, Australian Fashion Week, AFW, fashion, Fashion news, fashion week, Fashion Shows, BEARE PARK, lee mathews, Joseph & James, australian designers, Resort 26, Trending
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Grazia USA
02-06-2025
- Grazia USA
Horoscopes June 2-8: Gemini Season Makes The Living Easy
Horoscopes June 2-8, 2025. It's Gemini time, and the living is easy. Whether you're aware of it or not, things should feel easier and more fluid this week. The clouds aren't gone, but those low-hanging stratus threatening to rain on your rooftop party? Magically melting away. In their place, fairy lights, full glasses and a sense of optimism. While a new three-year storyline is just beginning in the Aries part of your chart (thank Saturn), another part is wrapping up as Venus moves into Taurus (Friday AEST and GMT). Adding to that lightness are Jupiter's last days in Gemini, inspiring spontaneity, sparkling conversation and a generosity of spirit that says, 'Let me get the next round!' And with Venus now in Taurus, you won't be drinking the house white. ARIES AND ARIES RISING There's no shortage of fun this week as Gemini season dials up the pace. But despite the lighter vibe, there's a lot of readjustment going on in your own life. With so much change happening, your biggest challenge will be trying to stay present with the issues in front of you right now. As Venus bids your sign a fond farewell (Friday AEST and GMT), take time to reflect on any relationship or style upgrades you've made over the past couple of months. TAURUS AND TAURUS RISING Brace yourself, you'll be in the mood to make it rain this week. As Gemini inspires a to-hell-with-it approach to your spending, any retail rendezvous could get out of hand very quickly. Adding to the spendy vibes, your ruling planet, Venus, is moving into your home sign. In simple terms, that will make you feel even more inclined to invest in you…because you're worth it. Enjoy the fun of it all, but be sure you aren't writing cheques you can't cash. GEMINI AND GEMINI RISING There's big 'YES' energy pinging around this week, and you are 100 per cent here for it. 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Grazia USA
14-05-2025
- Grazia USA
AFW DAY 2: Lee Mathews, Joseph & James, Beare Park Make Their Mark
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA – MAY 13: Models walk the runway during the Lee Mathews show at Australian Fashion Week (AFW) 2025 at Carriageworks on May 13, 2025 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by) Day two of Australian Fashion Week 2025 was packed with homegrown fashion talent in their element. Leading the schedule was Lee Mathews, who celebrated 25 years in business with an intimate show at Sydney's Carriageworks, while other favourites, including Beare Park and NAGNATA, presented new collections in grand and moody settings. Elsewhere, menswear label Joseph & James effectively stole the show with its solo debut, with an exceptionally refined approach to casualwear and a joyous colour palette we haven't stopped thinking about. For the full collection dispatches from on the ground at AFW, read on. Lee Mathews At AFW, Lee Mathews marked 25 years with a Resort '26 collection that was inspired by the art of ballet: intimate, disciplined, and softly powerful. 'There's a tension I love,' said Mathews, referencing the contrast of strength and softness in Pina Bausch's choreography—her point of inspiration. 'That contrast of strength and softness.' That tension underpinned the show, where diaphonous fabrics met solid and structured tailoring, corsetry lines met relaxed silhouettes, and every layer moved with an enchanting restraint. Set against draped calico—a raw canvas evoking the brand's enduring love for natural fibres—in Carriagework's mezzanine, the runway felt deeply grounded, with models gliding to a René Aubry score, composed for dance and theatre. After two decades, Mathews' philosophy remains: 'make good things,' and here, good meant garments that live with you—ageless, beautiful and always useful. The tonal palette—stone, skin, water, light—allowed form and fabrication to shine. Subtle stitchwork, custom fabrics, and Nina Walton's rhythmic prints brought a natural serenity to pieces. Behind the scenes, collaborations with artisans and heritage mills were matched by a fresh partnership with Delta Global, underscoring Mathews' enduring commitment to sustainability. Community took centre stage at the show as friends like Saskia Havekes and Alexia Spalding walked the runway, while Nigella Lawson, Maggie Beer and Miranda Otto watched from the front row. The natural, sun-kissed skin look—courtesy of RATIONALE and Linda Jefferyes—mirrored the garments' bucolic lightness, as did the tousled hair by Kevin Murphy. Resort '26 is a love letter to where Lee Mathews has been and where it's going: an evolving practice in thoughtful design and artistic integrity. At its heart is the radical commitment to design that is at once simple and significant—an art that lives on long after the show. Beare Park In a darkened room pierced by a dramatic light on the runway, Beare Park's AFW '25 show unfolded with cinematic drama. The presentation, soundtracked by a haunting original score by Gary Sinclair of Tactile Music, marked a confident evolution for the Sydney-based label, known for its cerebral approach to modern femininity. 'A continuing theme with Beare Park collections from day one has been the duality of structured tailoring and fluid silk pieces—high-quality fabric is always at the centre of each collection,' founder Gabriella Pereira tells GRAZIA. 'This collection was no exception in that sourcing fabrics was my starting point, and the consideration of the intersection of intimacy and power through fabric.' This season, this consideration became bolder, with silhouettes and cuts that laid bare the material, enabling garments to shine. From precision-cut double-breasted coats and sculptural culottes to sheer slip dresses and dupion silk track shorts, there was a clarity to each look that emphasised the craft behind it. The collection's palette—a moody blend of burgundy, mottled charcoal, deep chocolate and chartreuse—reflected this duality of fluidity meeting solid forces. Pereira's partnership with Chopard added luminous punctuation: stacks of Ice Cube bracelets in ethical gold and L'Heure du Diamant watches worn as jewellery gave the collection a subtle flash of heritage glamour. 'Their craftsmanship and respect for form mirrors our ethos,' Pereira noted. The set may have been pared back—black walls, no distractions—but there was a weight to the simplicity, a clarity of intent that echoed throughout the 30-look show. Styled by Nichhia Wippell, with beauty by Emma Lewisham led by Isabella Schimid, the mood was confident, sensual, and sharply modern. 'I think of myself as a customer before a designer,' continued Pereira. 'The purpose of a Beare Park garment is to be comfortable, functional and give the wearer a newfound sense of power.' JOSEPH & JAMES At this year's AFW, a new chapter in Australian menswear was written as JOSEPH & JAMES, helmed by Juanita Page—a proud Gooreng Gooreng and South Sea Islander woman—made a grand solo debut. With her inaugural show, Gathering, the designer made a powerful entry into the schedule, with a collection rooted in emotion, memory and connection. 'This collection is a celebration of togetherness—of what it means to gather, to connect, to be present,' said Page. From the moment a soundtrack of laughter, conversation and music filled the space, along with a warm, custom fragrance by Scent Australia Home, the show promised sincerity and soul—and delivered in spades. Relaxed tailoring met intricate knitwear; refined suiting in brushed herringbone and lightweight linen flowed alongside joyful bursts of colour—bright green, cabernet red, pastel purple—each hue coming together in a highly satisfying array of combinations that spoke to Page's deep understanding of balance. The 20-look, 58-piece collection was walked by a cast and styling direction powered by Mob in Fashion, the First Nations-led initiative by model Nathan McGuire. 'Mob in Fashion is about creating real, tangible opportunities for the next generation of Indigenous creatives,' said McGuire. From the streetwise elegance of Reebok footwear to the undone ease of ELEVEN Australia's textured hair and Clarins skin, the styling echoed the collection's guiding sentiment: ease, authenticity, and care. 'Every piece is designed with that spirit in mind, drawing on moments around the table with belly full and heart happy,' said Page. '[It's] places where stories are shared and memories are made.' topics: AFW 2025, Australian Fashion Week, AFW, fashion, Fashion news, fashion week, Fashion Shows, BEARE PARK, lee mathews, Joseph & James, australian designers, Resort 26, Trending
Grazia USA
13-05-2025
- Grazia USA
AFW: At The Frontier, Seven Australian Designers Tease Their Latest Collections
AFW 2025 / Image: Catinella 'The Frontier show was curated collectively to spotlight designers with a global perspective,' Courtney Zheng told GRAZIA ahead of her unique Australian Fashion Week debut. 'Being part of a group format made sense—it reflects the shared energy we're all bringing to the table, and allows that message to be amplified through strength in numbers.' 'For me, it is an opportunity to present a focused edit that communicates the essence of the brand and signals where it's headed, both aesthetically and strategically.' In a quietly commanding moment at AFW, seven Australian and New Zealand designers—Courtney Zheng, Wynn Hamlyn, Paris Georgia, Matin, Esse, Common Hours and Amy Lawrance —unveiled a distilled edit of just eight looks from their upcoming collections. The show took on a collective presentation format in the expansive Carla Zampatti room of Sydney's Carriageworks, with no distinction between the brands other than their distinct respective visions. Ahead, we break down the inspiration and processes that went into the show. Courtney Zheng 'The collection began with the idea of brutalist stealth—something that felt quietly powerful and architectural,' Zheng told us about her collection. 'I was drawn to the rawness of brutalism: exposed structure, material honesty, and a kind of stark elegance.' On the runway, this translated into sculptural silhouettes—strong shoulders, cinched waists, and a playful tension between sturdy and fluid fabrications. Distressed denim, raw-edge wool, leather, and sheer georgette were employed in myriad ways, while a palette of steely greys and blues was punctuated by vibrant red. Pieces were pleasing on the eye, but without compromising on functionality. When it comes to fusing artistry with wearability, the two aren't opposing forces to Zheng. 'I'm interested in pieces that are visually impactful but function in real life,' she says. 'The technical construction is always considered with wearability in mind: how it sits on the body, how the fabric feels, how it moves, how it can be layered or reinterpreted by the wearer.' 'The runway is an opportunity to showcase the depth of our atelier's skill,' she adds. 'There's as much artistry in restraint as there is in drama, and finding that balance makes a garment enduring.' Image: Courtney Zheng Image: Courtney Zheng Image: Courtney Zheng Image: Courtney Zheng at AFW Amy Lawrance Newcomer Amy Lawrance quickly impressed the industry last year when she presented as part of the Next Gen runway last year. This year, she finds herself part of another collective with The Frontier. 'It's a real privilege to show among some of Australia and New Zealand's most innovative fashion designers,' she told GRAZIA in the lead-up to the show. 'I see the group show format as an opportunity to present a carefully selected collection of garments. I really love the challenge of refining a larger body of work into a concise and impactful line-up.' With a distinct aesthetic vision and technical direction, the Melbourne-based designer has already established a strong visual language that sees her pieces stand out. 'Paper-based dressmaking ephemera (such as home dress-making manuals and commercial paper patterns from the first half of the 20th century) were a specific point of reference while designing and making the collection,' she explains. 'I wanted to play with the idea of making garments composed of flattened and folded shapes, that at a glance, look like paper patterns that have been folded up and stored in a box for decades.' For this collection, raw silk tussah was starched to bring a 'papery' quality to the fabric, evoking the delicate paper patterns that inspired the collection. But while inspiration is found in paper and the designer is drawn to shift and A-line silhouettes, Lawrance's garments are cut to work with the body's natural shape, not mask it. 'I am continually trying pieces on throughout the pattern making and toiling process, and considering how seamlessly the garment hangs from and moves with the body,' she tells us. 'Although my pieces aren't designed to be worn every day, function is always at the forefront when I'm designing because I think for a garment to be timeless and worthy of holding onto for a lifetime, it ultimately needs to feel beautiful on the body.' Image: Anna Lawrance Image: Anna Lawrance Image: Anna Lawrance Image: Anna Lawrance at AFW Paris Georgia While they're no strangers to the Australian fashion landscape, Paris Mitchell Temple and Georgia Cherrie are back on the AFW schedule with their label Paris Georgia after years of opting out. 'The starting point for this collection was a nostalgic yet empowering look at the Sex and the City characters of the '90s and early 2000s—a nod to the ultimate incarnation of the career woman in all her forms,' the duo told GRAZIA. 'These women have always served as a source of inspiration for Paris Georgia: bold, dynamic, and unapologetically themselves.' Though the brand has evolved over the years, their mission to deliver us a wardrobe that is as effortless as it is dynamic has served well as their North Star. 'Our muse is a woman who is just as confident in a cocktail dress as she is in double denim,' they explain. 'She doesn't just wear the clothes—she embodies them, radiating power, sensuality, and effortless style in equal measure… never confined to a single definition.' Through the runway, the brand sought to capture the energy of the main character—'She is a muse—not just to us, but to everyone around her.' But while confidence and impact are strong themes, functionality is never compromised. '[We] constantly dissect each garment, considering who it's for, where she'll wear it, and how it will make her feel,' says Mitchell Temple. 'Striking the right harmony between novelty and wearability is at the heart of every design.' Image: Paris Georgia Image: Paris Georgia Image: Paris Georgia Image: Paris Georgia Matin Unveiled as a distilled edit of just eight looks, Michelle Perrett presented Matin Pre-Fall 2025, a collection encapsulating the brand's core philosophy: effortless freedom, rendered in natural fabrics and anchored by timeless silhouettes. 'There's something really special about that collective atmosphere,' Perrett said of the show's format. 'Together, we've created something greater than the sum of its parts.' Pre-Fall 2025 felt like a masterclass in gentle power, where soft tailoring met crisp cotton, and pleat work, raw hems and sculptural folds revealed themselves upon closer inspection. Each piece prioritised wearability and creativity with a modern prowess, proving that longevity and style go hand-in-hand. In a fashion landscape often dominated by noise, Matin offered a welcome moment of stillness and continuity. It was a collection for those who dress with bold intent—not for show, but for the self. Image: Matin Image: Matin Image: Matin at AFW Image: Matin at AFW Wynn Hamlyn With a tightly curated edit that comprised men's and women's ready-to-wear, Wynn Hamlyn offered a cerebral take on resort dressing for 2026. For this collection, New Zealand designer Wynn Crawshaw reworked signature codes through an experimental lens, presenting a collection that balanced intellectual rigour with everyday elegance. 'We took elements from our archive and reimagined them with a sense of craft-driven luxury, specifically focusing on deconstructing and rebuilding our knitwear,' Crawshaw told GRAZIA. 'We wanted to create something that feels effortless yet thought-provoking.' As the brand has become a go-to for pieces that go beyond occasion or aesthetic moulds, practicality and craft are laced together in a striking balance. 'For us, it's about ensuring the artistry serves the wearer. The detail and craft are always at the forefront, but so is functionality,' he explains. 'We want our pieces to feel like an extension of the wearer, not just something they put on. That's why we focus on making each design not only visually compelling but also wearable. For example, the functional buttons in this collection aren't just a design feature—they create a silhouette that feels fresh yet familiar. It's about art that feels like a second skin, beautifully constructed but with comfort at its core.' The decision to join a collective show at Australian Fashion Week—rather than pursue a solo spotlight—felt aligned with the brand's quiet confidence and ongoing cult status. 'It was about creating a space where the clothes could speak for themselves,' Crenshaw noted. And speak they did: asymmetrical tailoring, tactile knitwear, and intricate button appliqués told a story of elevated craft in just a few mixed looks. In this preview, a distinct sense of ease lingered beneath the surface of bolder aesthetics—think slouchy silhouettes sharpened with technical precision, or sculptural detailing softened by touchable textures. Image: Wynn Hamlyn Image: Wynn Hamlyn Image: Wynn Hamlyn Image: Wynn Hamlyn at AFW ESSE Presenting Edition No.13, Charlotte Hick was inspired by impact and attitude over pragmetism fir ESSE's latest offering. 'The seed was the idea of quiet motion—a woman who moves with presence rather than noise,' she told GRAZIA ahead of the show. 'I wanted Edition No. 13 to feel like a wardrobe of modern artefacts: sculptural, intentional pieces that hold space for the wearer. I began by exploring refined dualities—masculine tailoring tempered by drape, lush textures grounded in purpose… this led to eight tightly edited looks where textures collide yet breathe. Each silhouette is sharp yet relaxed—strong and sleek, softened by sensuality.' With outerwear and minimalist silhouettes that will live in our brains long after the runway, ESSE doubles down on its timeless design ethos of restraint. 'It's in the detail and the subtle collision of texture,' Hick explains. 'Every line, surface, and proportion must earn its place. I start with the question: Will she reach for this tomorrow, and five years from now? 'The goal is poetry that can be lived in: pieces that read as art in motion yet slip effortlessly into a real wardrobe.' Image: ESSE Image: ESSE Image: ESSE Image: ESSE Image: ESSE at AFW Common Hours In a departure from its signature art prints, Common Hours presented a collection that put sensuality front and centre. 'This capsule is less heavily art-based than some of our collections have been in the past; it's more of a private musing on subversion and dissent, leaning into provocation and austerity through hidden details,' says its founder, Amber Keating. 'Specifically, I was thinking about the notion of pure evil. Fragility versus subjugation, the sexual tension within the narrative of feminine and masculine: resistance and rebellion acted out in silence, with cocooning wools or aggressive overcoats enveloping something more delicate and vulnerable, like distressed, laddered barely-there dresses… It's a disciplined capsule, with an undertone of antagonism and resistance.' 'Ultimately, this capsule's goal was to add more streamlined, restrained silhouettes to our existing library of art-based pieces, expanding on the concept behind Common Hours,' Keating continues. 'As always, our foremost focus is composition: exceptional fabrications from leading European mills, translated through deceptively simple silhouettes that hide complex, meticulous construction.' As for what compelled the designer to join The Frontier? 'We are all Australian brands dealing with distance, risk, and various impediments and issues in participating in this industry,' she says. 'Yet, we share a compulsion to create and make. I like to think we can support each other and the broader Australian fashion industry.' Image: Common Hours Image: Common Hours Image: Common Hours Image: Common Hours at AFW topics: AFW 2025, Australian Fashion Week, AFW, RESORT 2025, fashion, Fashion news, fashion week, Fashion Shows, Runway, Courtney Zheng, Amy Lawrance, Paris Georgia, Matin, Wynn Hamlyn, ESSE, Common Hours, Trending
