It's supposed to be a no-go city. But I went anyway, and loved it
The first Indians arrived in South Africa as indentured labourers in the 1860s. The country has 1.2 million people of Indian origin. Apart from Birmingham in England, Durban has more ethnic Indians than any other city outside India.
Mahatma Gandhi spent two decades of his early life in Durban, working as a lawyer and getting involved in the civil rights campaign. Our next stop is his house in Inanda township, which tells the story of his activism among the Indian community, and its influence on black activism.
The story has a fitting coda as we continue on to nearby Ohlange High School, founded by John Dube, first president of the African National Congress (ANC). Nelson Mandela cast his vote in the first democratic South African election here in 1994. He walked to Dube's grave afterwards and said: 'I have come to report, Mr President, that South Africa is now free.'
Later we arrive in our guide Madoo's home district, Chatsworth, to visit Sri Sri Radha Radhanath Temple, a moated, lotus-shaped eruption in marble, brass and glass, hung with chandeliers and bright with Hindu ceiling frescoes.
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Beside the temple, a vast catering tent is doling out free lunches to anyone who wants one. No sign of police officers or dark alleys here. The only strangers are ladies in gaudy saris eager for a chat, jewellery clanking from their ears.
I've had a great day. I like Durban, which is just as well, because we're in port overnight. I'm emboldened by my first encounter with it. Tomorrow I'll be off on my own, discovering more of a city that deserves attention.
THE DETAILS
CRUISE
Regent Seven Seas Cruises' 14-night Lagoons, Safaris and Dunes cruise return from Cape Town departs January 13, 2026, and visits Walvis Bay, Port Elizabeth, East London, Durban and Mossel Bay. From $13,390 a person including all dining, speciality restaurants, beverages, Wi-Fi, gratuities, laundry service and shore excursions. See rssc.com
The writer travelled as a guest of Regent Seven Seas Cruises.
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The Age
3 days ago
- The Age
All the things we love about Singapore (plus five we don't)
To celebrate Singapore's 60th anniversary as a nation, we present the 60 reasons we love visiting this country that boasts such a colourful past, but an even more exciting future. While Singapore is also a favoured travel destination for Australians, a perfect stopover on the way to Europe and other parts of Asia, it's also an attraction in its own right, one worthy of a much longer stay for myriad reasons. Today, it's a highly successful financial and cultural hub, one that has taken in so many disparate peoples, from Chinese to Malay, Indians to Europeans, and created something unique and beautiful from their efforts. In 1965, Singapore's future was uncertain, with many people sceptical of its chances of survival as an independent state. It seems incredible to think that the Singapore we know today, the modern metropolis, the world-leading city-state, has been around only 60 years. August 9 marks the country's 60th birthday ( ), its 60th year since independence from Malaysia – and what a difference six decades can make. Add articles to your saved list and come back to them any time. Here's the flipside to those affordable restaurants: the high-end dining scene, which Singapore also does extremely well. Three restaurants here have the coveted three Michelin stars – Odette (undergoing a refresh from September), Zen, and Les Amis – while six have two stars, and 33 have one. Singapore's accessible, affordable dining scene doesn't begin and end with hawker centres. This city-state is filled with casual eateries serving high-quality food – everything from noodle dens to roast-meat specialists; dumpling joints to thali places; shopping centre food courts to late-night food streets and international favourites to tiny local holes-in-the-wall. Singapore loves to eat – you will too. Until 1971, Singapore's street-food culture was much like everywhere else in South-East Asia, with hawkers peddling food from portable street-side kitchens. During the 1970s and '80s, however, the Singaporean government constructed large 'food centres' to give hawkers permanent homes. Those centres have become cherished features of the local culture, and ideal places for visitors to sample a huge range of affordable, delectable dishes. At the likes of Old Airport Road, Tiong Bahru, Maxwell and Tekka you will find the best of Singaporean cuisine at only a few dollars a plate. Singapore is famous for its chilli crab, but there's something better: black pepper crab, drier than its chilli brethren, with a focus on pungent, smoky black pepper balanced by sweetness and umami. Australia is well-represented on the Singapore food scene. Check out Burnt Ends, the temple of fire-driven cooking by expat chef Dave Pynt; Waku Ghin, high-end Japanese by Sydney favourite Tetsuya Wakuda; Fysh, by Josh Niland; or even Cloudstreet, Sri Lankan chef Rishi Naleendra's fine-diner named in honour of the Tim Winton novel he read during a stint cooking in Sydney. No exaggeration: Singapore has one of the world's best bar scenes. There are four Singaporean venues in the current World's 50 Best Bars list. The highlight is probably Atlas, an opulent art deco space with a 10-metre-high display housing the world's largest gin collection. There's also Jigger & Pony, with world-beating cocktails; a speakeasy-style whisky joint, and Last Word, a classy, Japanese-style bar. There's no better way to start a day in Singapore than with this classic combo: slices of toast heavily buttered and slathered in sweet kaya paste, which are then dipped in runny eggs seasoned with soy sauce and pepper. Paired with a strong black coffee, your day is off to a flyer. Here's another dish that is worth the journey alone. Hainanese chicken rice is deceptively complex: chicken is gently poached, and then the leftover liquid used to cook the rice. Those two components are served with dark soy, minced garlic and chilli. It's true: this is an outrageous rip-off. A Singapore Sling at the Long Bar at Raffles, where the drink was conceived, will set you back $S41, or almost $50. For one drink. But look, this is just one of those things you have to do because the Long Bar is legendary, the Singapore Sling is an icon, and sometimes the (pricey) cliches make for the best travel experiences. See Every weekday at 7pm, and every weekend at 3pm, Boon Tat Street is closed to traffic and the satay hawkers arrive. Trestle tables and plastic chairs cover the street, smoke clouds the air, and diners feast on freshly grilled satays late into the night. See Greenery everywhere Even hotels embrace greenery … lagoon pool terrace at Pan Pacific Orchard. This is the tropics, so although Singapore can seem like the big, bad city sometimes, it's also easy to access green space. Even some of the high-rises are covered in vegetation. Singapore Botanic Gardens Lily pads in Singapore Botanic Gardens. Credit: iStock This sprawling, 166-year-old tropical garden is World Heritage listed (one of only three in the world to hold that honour), and boasts more than 10,000 species of flora spread across 82 hectares. Entry is free. See Gardens by the Bay Gardens by the Bay. Credit: Getty Images When a garden becomes a major tourist attraction, you know something has been done right. And this is a spectacular garden, featuring a blend of modern architectural flourishes and design-heavy floral displays. The likes of the Flower Dome, Cloud Forest and Floral Fantasy capture the imagination of adults and kids alike. See Pulau Ubin Serene boardwalk on Pulau Ubin island. Credit: iStock This isn't the Singapore you've been picturing: Pulau Ubin is a quiet island north-east of the mainland. It has no high-rises, no highways, no hawker centres and no shopping malls. What it does have is peace, tranquillity, wildlife, a few charming little restaurants, and the chance to take things slow. See Rail Corridor Singapore's Rail Corridor is a 24-kilometre passage that links the city-state's major green spaces, and has been designed not just for wildlife to move between these areas, but walkers, runners and cyclists too. A stroll in the early morning or evening is the perfect antidote to big-city life. See Singapore River Iconic lotus flower-shaped ArtScience Museum on the Singapore River at sunset. Flowing through the CBD and into Marina Bay, this is Singapore's key waterway, and it's surrounded by riverside restaurants, bars and other nightlife attractions. Evening strolls along East Coast Park Cycling trails in East Coast Park. Credit: Singapore Tourism Board There are more than 15 kilometres of walking and biking tracks on this coastal stretch of parkland near Changi airport. East Coast Park is the perfect place for a beachfront stroll in the cool of the evening, a stroll that will ideally take you to either Jumbo Seafood, a purveyor of black pepper crab, or East Coast Lagoon Food Village, a hawker centre that specialises in satays. See Reliably warm weather (and air-con) There is no time of year you can possibly arrive in Singapore and find it cold. You will always be able to swim. You will always live in shorts and T-shirt. TRANSPORT Singapore Airlines Singapore's national carrier is ranked among the world's best. If this isn't the world's best airline, it's certainly up there. See Singapore Changi Jewel Changi Airport's famous Rain Vortex feature. Credit: iStock With probably the world's best airline comes probably the world's best airport: Changi, packed to the rafters with traveller-friendly features such as outdoor gardens, rooftop pools, sleep pods, hawker centres, airside transit hotels, and even the publicly accessible 'employee canteen', a food court for staff where you can pick up authentic Singaporean cuisine for a couple of bucks. See Singapore taxi drivers Professional and reliable … Singapore's taxi service. To become a taxi driver in Singapore you have to complete a training course with the Land Transport Authority, pass a theory test, and then obtain a licence. This means taxi drivers in Singapore are professional and reliable. No (or few) traffic jams Singapore's road network is not just well-designed, with plenty of highways and bypasses, but car ownership is also prohibitively expensive, meaning most people seek other forms of transport. The result: little time waiting in traffic. Extensive public transport More than 3.41 million ride the MRT rail lines each day. There are plenty of public transport options in Singapore, all of which are reliable, modern and comfortable. There's the MRT, a series of six rail lines, plus an extensive bus network that covers any part of the city not easily reached by rail. There are also ferries to get you to smaller islands and nearby parts of Indonesia. See SOCIETY The Green Plan Here's the deal: Singapore has a plan to achieve net zero emissions by 2050. That includes concrete targets over the next 10 years, including planting 1 million trees, quadrupling solar energy deployment, and reducing waste sent to landfill by 30 per cent. Impressive stuff. See The chope system Always carry a small packet of tissues with you in Singapore. Partly because paper napkins are scarce, but also, so you can reserve a table. In Singaporean hawker centres and other places with unreserved seating, placing a pack of tissues on a table – a 'chope' – means you have bagged that spot, and absolutely no one will mess with it. Safety According to World Population Review, Singapore is the fifth-safest country in the world, which makes travel here a pleasure. Cleanliness Renowned for its cleanliness. Singapore is also incredibly clean and tidy, which has to do with the law: first-time offenders can be fined up to $S2000 ($2380) just for flinging a cigarette butt onto the ground. Bad for litterers – good for you. Everyone speaks English (and another language) Singapore has four official languages: Chinese, Malay, Tamil, and English. That means basically everyone you meet in this country will be able to speak English, and at least one other language – perfect for travellers just finding their way. Singlish Singaporeans don't just speak English, but a more charming creole version that's known as 'Singlish'. The most obvious sign of Singlish is the word 'lah' or 'leh' at the end of sentences: 'Can lah' means someone will be able to do something for you. Love it. Street art Singapore's Muscat Street, with street art and architecture based on Omani culture. Credit: iStock For a country so bound by strict rules, Singapore also has a healthy (sanctioned) street-art scene. Wander the Kampong Glam neighbourhood and you will find walls filled with murals created by some of the best in the business. Connections to Asia There are so many amazing destinations within a short flight of Singapore: Bali, Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Siem Reap, Hanoi, Luang Prabang, Brunei and more. This is your gateway to South-East Asia. See Singapore Grand Prix Singapore's Formula 1 Grand Prix takes over the streets each year. Credit: Getty Images Every October the streets of Marina Bay morph into a racetrack and the billion-dollar circus that is the Formula 1 Grand Prix arrives in Singapore – the city goes nuts for it. See STAYS Raffles A Singapore icon … Raffles Hotel. Credit: Alamy This is one of the world's great hotels, an establishment with real history, having been around since 1887 (when it was a 10-room hotel). Raffles continues to set the standard for luxury hotels worldwide, with gorgeous suites, sprawling gardens, impeccable service, and high-quality drinking and dining establishments on site. See Raffles doormen Speaking of that impeccable service, Raffles is famous for its doormen, suave characters who set the tone immediately upon arrival, and who have become Singaporean stars. Fullerton Hotel The Fullerton. The neoclassical Fullerton Building was completed in 1928, and is a national monument, once home to Singapore's general post office, and now the Fullerton, a 400-room, five-star hotel. The rooms here are truly beautiful. See Parkroyal Collection Pickering The Parkroyal Collection Pickering is built around a 15,000-square-metre urban garden, a dense, tropical green space that rises into the air with the building around it. The luxury hotel also has sustainability bona fides: 262 solar panels on the roof, EVs for guest transfers, and a design that allows maximum natural light and minimal artificial needs. See Shangri-La's family themed suites Shangri-La Singapore's castle room. Plenty of hotels pay lip service to being family-friendly, but few commit to the bit in the way the Shangri-La Singapore does. Not only is there a breakfast buffet just for kids, a waterslide park, an indoor play area and child-minding service, the hotel also has 'family-themed suites': 16 individually themed rooms with bunk beds, kids' writing desks, bean bags, toys, treasure chests and tunnels between rooms. See FAMILY Singapore Cable Car Cableway, Sentosa Island, Singapore. Credit: Getty Images Linking Mount Faber, in Singapore's main island, with Sentosa, the Singapore Cable Car is a tourist attraction that provides bang for buck, soaring almost 100 metres above Keppel Harbour on a 15-minute journey. See Sentosa Island theme parks Packed with family-friendly attractions … Sentosa Island. Credit: iStock Though Sentosa lacks historical charm (save for Fort Siloso), it does offer a swath of theme parks and attractions to keep families happy: Universal Studios, Singapore Oceanarium, KidZania, Harry Potter: Visions of Magic, Adventure Cove Waterpark and more. See Family-friendly Grabs Grab is essentially another version of Uber, and in Singapore, it's very handy, particularly for families with young children. The app allows you to book cars with either one or two child seats, which provides welcome peace of mind in an already safety-conscious city. See Merlion Park The iconic Merlion statue stands opposite Marina Bay Sands Hotel. Credit: iStock A merlion is exactly what you think it is: half lion, half fish. It's also the symbol of the metamorphosis of Singapore from small fishing village to giant Lion City, and the 10-metre-high merlion statue on the promenade overlooking Marina Bay remains one of Singapore's most popular attractions. National Museum of Singapore This city-state's oldest museum has both modern and historic exhibitions and is well worth a visit, particularly during a tropical downpour. See Wildlife viewing Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. Yes, there's wildlife in Singapore. In places such as Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, Pulau Ubin, and Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve there are hundreds of birdlife species, not to mention monkeys, estuarine crocodiles, and even otters. See Free activities Tai Chi in the Botanic Gardens. Credit: Getty Images There's plenty to do in Singapore if you don't feel like parting with any cash. Visit the Botanic Gardens, explore Southern Ridges, visit various temples throughout the city, see the waterfall at the Jewel, wander Chinatown or Little India, and much more. HERITAGE Shophouses Shophouse art: Yip Yew Chong's mural Lion Dance Head Maker, based on the actual shop at No. 3 Ann Siang Hill in the 1980s. Credit: Getty Images Singapore's shophouses really do fit the 'icon' description. These terrace buildings combine architectural influences from Chinese, European and Malay cultures, and often have ornate features and historic charm. There are more than 6500 shophouses still lining the Singapore streets – most can be found in Chinatown, Joo Chiat, Emerald Hill, Little India and Blair Plain. Shophouse museum Singapore's Chinatown Heritage Centre in Pagoda Street. Credit: iStock Want to know more about Singaporean shophouses? Check out the Chinatown Heritage Centre, which is made up of several restored shophouses. See Historic members clubs Though they aren't always easy to access – you'll need reciprocal membership, or know someone who can bring you in as a visitor – Singapore has a host of private members' clubs that are fascinating slices of the city-state's history. The Tanglin Club, founded in 1865, and Singapore Cricket Club, around since 1852, are prime examples. Peranakan culture Clean and beautifully preserved candy-coloured Peranakan houses. Credit: Getty Images Most come to Singapore expecting to find a mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian culture, but don't expect a fourth influence, that of the Peranakans. Also known as Nyonya, or Straits Chinese, this is a culture that can be experienced in specialist restaurants in the Katong-Joo Chiat area in Chinatown, and at the Peranakan Museum. Festivals When you have three main cultures – Chinese, Indian and Malay – plus a general tendency to put on large events to please visitors and locals alike, you end up with a packed festival calendar. That's exactly what Singapore has. NEIGHBOURHOODS Chinatown A street vendor in Chinatown watches over his store selling Chinese lanterns. Credit: Getty Images Singapore boasts what is surely one of the world's great Chinatowns, a maze of narrow roads lined with historic buildings, a living, breathing cultural relic. There are also three of Singapore's best hawker centres: Chinatown Complex, Maxwell Centre, and Hong Lim Market. Little India The most colourful house in Singapore in Little India. Credit: Getty Images Here's the perfect complement to Chinatown: Little India, another cultural enclave that will whisk you directly to the streets of Chennai. There are Hindu temples, peddlers of traditional saris and flower arrangements, plus incredible food at the Tekka Centre. Kampong Glam Muscat Street in Kampong Glam. Credit: Getty Images No neighbourhood captures the meeting of tradition and modernity in Singapore like Kampong Glam. This is one of Singapore's oldest areas, with historic buildings and the majesty of Sultan Mosque. It's also home to some of the city's best bars, its most interesting street art, and Haji Lane, a pedestrian street filled with boutiques, cafes, bars and restaurants. Orchard Road The dazzling ION Orchard mega-mall on Orchard Road. Credit: iStock Shoppers, pack your credit cards, because Singapore offers many an opportunity to part with cash. For all your shopping needs on one street, Orchard Road is home to mega-malls such as ION Orchard, Paragon, Takashimaya, 313@somerset and Mandarin Gallery. Each is stocked with every major international retail brand you can think of – not to mention some very nice places to eat. Dempsey Hill Dempsey Hill's stacked dining precinct … among the options, renowned restaurant Burnt Ends. This is a surprise attraction for many visitors to Singapore, a former British army barracks near the Botanic Gardens that's now home to a series of art galleries, retail stores, wine bars and restaurants – including outlets of famed local eatery Jumbo Seafood. See Loading Geylang Geylang was once Singapore's red-light district, and it retains plenty of that edge; it's also, however, a vastly interesting and approachable neighbourhood, with rows of old shophouses, buzzing local restaurants and bars, and even a signature local dish, Geylang frog porridge, which is far tastier than it sounds. ARCHITECTURE WOHA Architects Contemporary design and old-world charm … Singapore's 21 Carpenter Hotel. Co-founded by Australian architect Richard Hassell, this Singapore-based firm is responsible for some of the most eye-catching buildings on the Singapore skyline, from spectacular Pan Pacific Orchard and quirky 21 Carpenter to the bold Singapore Institute of Technology. See The Jewel Sprawling indoor gardens at Jewel Changi Airport. You would visit the Jewel, the entertainment and shopping complex built around the world's largest indoor waterfall, even if you weren't flying out of Changi airport. There are more than 300 dining and retail outlets across 10 levels, plus indoor gardens, the Canopy Park and the Experience Studio. The fact this has direct access to one of the world's best airports is an added bonus. See Marina Bay Sands Landmark: Marina Bay Sands. Credit: Getty Images This is one of those 'wow' buildings that inspires you to pull your camera out immediately. You may love or hate what's inside – the high-end restaurants, bars and nightclubs, the whopping casino – but it's hard to deny the awe of these three towers connected by a platform 56 storeys high. A swim and a cocktail at the rooftop pool is a must-do. See Retro atrium hotels The soaring atrium of Conrad Singapore Orchard hotel. In the 1960s and '70s, American architect John Portman helped popularise a style of hotel design that focused on grand, airy atriums, and Singapore boasts three of his most spectacular works: the Mandarin Oriental, the Parkroyal Collection Marina Bay, and the Conrad Singapore Orchard. Even if you're not staying, each is worth a wander. Henderson Waves Henderson Waves pedestrian bridge, part of the walking trail connecting the Southern Ridges with Mount Faber. Credit: Singapore Tourism Speaking of impressive design, don't miss Henderson Waves, a 274-metre pedestrian bridge in Southern Ridges park with a distinctive wave pattern – like a giant snake – making for excellent Instagram fodder. See Five things we don't always love about Singapore The strict adherence to rules Laws are tight in Singapore, everyone knows that. But what can come as a surprise is Singaporeans' adherence to rules and norms of all kinds. When it seems to an outsider as if bending the rules might make the most sense – still, locals will be unwilling. The humidity Reliably hot weather: great. Love it. What isn't always so pleasant, however, is the dense weight of humidity that can hang over Singapore, draining the energy of even the most ardent diner or shopper. Loading Rojak Singaporean food is, almost without exception, delicious. That exception? Rojak. A variety of raw fruits and vegetables are chopped up and then topped with a sweet, spicy sauce. Honestly, the whole thing makes no sense. Expensive alcohol You can get an excellent meal in Singapore for a very low price. If, however, you would like a few glasses of wine with that meal, the cost will rise significantly because this is an expensive country in which to do your drinking. The lack of napkins In Japan, you spend your days wandering around looking for non-existent rubbish bins. In Singapore, you're constantly on the hunt for non-existent napkins. People just don't give them out in this country like they do in others. Hot tip: carry your own.
Sydney Morning Herald
6 days ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
I felt smug about my airfare, until I realised it was the wrong airline
I'm feeling pretty smug about the flight I've booked on Singapore Airlines that takes me from Melbourne to Madrid, and then from London back to Melbourne. Until, that is, I read the email confirmation after paying for it. Why on Earth am I flying home via Delhi? Duffer that I am, I've accidentally clicked on the wrong flight on The time is almost identical, the price likewise, the flying time ditto. The only major difference is the route, and the airline. I am flying with an Indian carrier. Oh well, at least the food should be good. I don't really think about it again until the morning of my flight home. I arrive at Heathrow just after 7am, to find my 9.45am flight delayed by four hours. They send an email while I am in the cab, which of course I don't see until I arrive. As excuses go, they have a pretty good one: the airspace over the subcontinent is closed because India and Pakistan are firing missiles at each other. I am about to wheel away to find a much-needed coffee when it dawns on me: assuming this plane really does take off in four hours (which, given the conflict, feels like a stretch), I will miss my connecting flight. 'Right,' says the check-in fellow. 'You'd better follow this man to the service desk.' Sleep- and coffee-deprived, my neurons are firing about as well as a clapped-out Morris Minor, but out the corner of my eye I spy some bloke sprinting through the terminal. He is five metres, 10 metres, 20 metres ahead of me, doesn't once make eye contact, and says not a word. I have no idea if he is the person I am meant to be following, but in the absence of a better option, that's what I do. And then he stops, and lo and behold it is the Air India service desk.
The Age
6 days ago
- The Age
I felt smug about my airfare, until I realised it was the wrong airline
I'm feeling pretty smug about the flight I've booked on Singapore Airlines that takes me from Melbourne to Madrid, and then from London back to Melbourne. Until, that is, I read the email confirmation after paying for it. Why on Earth am I flying home via Delhi? Duffer that I am, I've accidentally clicked on the wrong flight on The time is almost identical, the price likewise, the flying time ditto. The only major difference is the route, and the airline. I am flying with an Indian carrier. Oh well, at least the food should be good. I don't really think about it again until the morning of my flight home. I arrive at Heathrow just after 7am, to find my 9.45am flight delayed by four hours. They send an email while I am in the cab, which of course I don't see until I arrive. As excuses go, they have a pretty good one: the airspace over the subcontinent is closed because India and Pakistan are firing missiles at each other. I am about to wheel away to find a much-needed coffee when it dawns on me: assuming this plane really does take off in four hours (which, given the conflict, feels like a stretch), I will miss my connecting flight. 'Right,' says the check-in fellow. 'You'd better follow this man to the service desk.' Sleep- and coffee-deprived, my neurons are firing about as well as a clapped-out Morris Minor, but out the corner of my eye I spy some bloke sprinting through the terminal. He is five metres, 10 metres, 20 metres ahead of me, doesn't once make eye contact, and says not a word. I have no idea if he is the person I am meant to be following, but in the absence of a better option, that's what I do. And then he stops, and lo and behold it is the Air India service desk.
