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‘The Bear' review: Stellar performances carry Season 4, but story has missing ingredients

‘The Bear' review: Stellar performances carry Season 4, but story has missing ingredients

This review contains light spoilers regarding the fourth season of 'The Bear.'
At one point in the wheel-spinning yet reliably well-acted fourth season of ' The Bear,' brilliant/tortured chef Carmy Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White) stops changing his restaurant's menu every night. For the sake of consistency and his customer base, he sticks with proven hits.
Meanwhile, creator and executive producer Christopher Storer employs his show's most crowd-pleasing element only sparingly, as if it is the last ounce of truffle on a busy Saturday night.
This show's sweet spot has always been its depiction of a busy restaurant kitchen, first at fictional Chicago sandwich spot The Beef, then its fine-dining successor The Bear. Although kitchen scenes can be stressful to watch, moments when the crew works harmoniously and produces perfect dishes often thrill in their precision. Yet the bulk of the new 10-episode season — now streaming on Hulu — is maddeningly imprecise.
Season 4 starts with The Bear's team still absorbing a mixed review from the Chicago Tribune. The review's gist is that the restaurant is capable of excellence but messy in execution. (Any resemblance to the critical reception to this show's third season is surely coincidental.) Since they consider the Tribune review too ambivalent to drive new business, Carmy and crew turn their focus back to earning a Michelin star.
This premise is easy to get behind, first because it presents a metropolitan newspaper as still make-or-break influential in 2025, and second, in stating a goal that seems to require nail-biter kitchen scenes to achieve. But apart from an extended, beautifully choreographed sequence in Episode 3, most of this season takes place outside business hours — and involves dry, limp word salads rather than delicious food.
Meandering and inarticulate, the season's too-frequent extended conversations usually occur between the famously unforthcoming Carmy and one other character. Carmy does use his words, but most are meaningless and must be interpreted by companions who too often join him in obtuseness.
Scenes with Claire (Molly Gordon), the longtime love Carmy too often pushes away, can be agonizing. They often are shot in close-up, further emphasizing the degree to which these two talk in circles. Granted, the Carmy-Claire storyline has always seemed forced, but Claire, who is a doctor, once spoke in sentences.
These scenes and many others feel too obviously improvised — you can see what appears to be actors 'yes, and'-ing each other in real time. When we tune in to 'The Bear' to see the sausage being made, this is not what we mean.
Scripted or otherwise, White (soon to be seen on the big screen as Bruce Springsteen) and fellow Emmy winners Ayo Edebiri and Ebon Moss-Bachrach — who play chef de cuisine Syd and front-of-house manager Richie, respectively — once again deliver stellar performances. Although White can seem overly morose, he lends emotional depth to scenes that tap Carmy's inherent empathy.
Edebiri brings more confidence to Syd this season while remaining unaffected and relatable, making a case for being named overall 'Bear' MVP. Having directed last season's excellent 'Napkins' episode, Edebiri co-wrote this season's fourth — and most cohesive — episode, which explores Syd's family ties beyond her widowed, loyal dad (an always solid Robert Townsend).
Although still prone to dramatic self-flagellation, Richie finally seems like a full-fledged adult. Moss-Bachrach continues to keep Richie's pain and self-doubt right at the surface but adds a layer of wisdom.
Although Syd, Richie and even Carmy progress this season, the story does not, as conflicts that should have been resolved in Episode 1 stretch unnecessarily into the finale.
Maybe it's time to acknowledge 'The Bear' not for what it promised to be — a TV classic — but for what it is: a small, pandemic-era miracle not built for longevity. Although this realization disappoints, the transitory realities of the show's restaurant setting help it go down easier.

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