Reviving a sacred legacy - Egypt - Al-Ahram Weekly

Al-Ahram Weekly

5 days ago

The Abu Mena Monastery near Alexandria is undergoing restoration and development work to reclaim its outstanding historical and spiritual role.
In the arid landscape of Borg Al-Arab southwest of Alexandria, the Monastery of Abu Mena rises as a silent witness to centuries of Christian devotion. Once one of the most important pilgrimage centres in the early Christian world, this revered site, home to the tomb of St Mena, a fourth-century Coptic martyr, is now the focus of a national initiative to preserve, protect, and revitalise its historic significance.
Inscribed on the UN cultural agency UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1979 for its exceptional cultural value, the Monastery of Abu Mena has faced considerable threats over the years. Environmental changes, particularly the rising water table, have weakened the integrity of its ancient structures. As a result, UNESCO placed the site on the List of World Heritage in Danger in 2001.
A multi-phase restoration project spearheaded by the Supreme Council of Antiquities (SCA) in collaboration with conservation experts and engineers then aimed not only to stabilise the site's archaeological remains but also to reintegrate the monastery into Egypt's cultural landscape. Measures have included improving drainage systems, supporting vulnerable foundations, and applying new conservation techniques tailored to the unique challenges of the site.
The groundwater-lowering project at the Abu Mena Monastery has been successfully completed, safeguarding the site from rising groundwater levels that had prompted UNESCO to add it to the World Heritage in Danger List. The project was carried out in close coordination with the ministries of water resources and irrigation, agriculture, and land reclamation, and the Alexandria governorate. Funded with a budget of LE50 million provided by the SCA, the project involved comprehensive technical measures to address the groundwater threat.
A total of 69 trenches ranging from 35 to 50 metres in depth were excavated across the site, including 12 surrounding the tomb of St Mena. These were linked with 6.15-metre pipes connected to a pumping system that effectively reduced groundwater levels.
In parallel, the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities in collaboration with the Ministry of Water Resources and Irrigation worked to divert and remove wastewater from the area and implemented the conversion of the local irrigation system to a more sustainable drip-irrigation method, reducing water seepage into the archaeological zone.
In addition, restoration work has also been carried out on the western wall surrounding the basilica at the Abu Mena site, with all original architectural elements carefully returned to their original positions. Detailed restoration work across the rest of the site remains ongoing.
The project reflects a wider vision for sustainable heritage management in Egypt, one that balances archaeological integrity, spiritual continuity, and economic development through tourism. Abu Mena, with its ancient basilicas, baptistery, crypts, and communal spaces, represents not just the past, but a shared future grounded in history and identity.
To enhance the site's management and improve the visitor experience, new information and directive panels have been installed in cooperation with the Alexandria governorate, alongside the construction of access roads to facilitate easier entry.
In coordination with UNESCO, additional explanatory panels have been installed throughout the site. These panels include content in both Arabic and English, along with QR codes that link to the ministry's official website, offering visitors in-depth historical and archaeological information.
As part of the broader site development, a range of visitor services have been introduced. These include modern restrooms, shaded seating areas, benches, recycling bins, and improved accessibility features designed to accommodate visitors with special needs.
INSPECTION: Early this week, Sherif Fathy, the minister of tourism and antiquities, Ahmed Khaled Hassan Said, the Alexandria governor, and Nuria Sanz, director of the UNESCO Regional Bureau, in the presence of His Holiness Pope Tawadros II, pope of Alexandria and patriarch of the See of St Mark, embarked on a tour of the Abu Mena Monastery to review the work being achieved.
During the visit, the delegation toured key areas of the site, including the ancient architectural remains and the newly installed infrastructure for groundwater management. The project includes a network of deep wells, drainage lines, and an automated monitoring system designed to stabilise groundwater levels and protect the site's fragile remains.
Fathy praised the extensive efforts made by all the parties involved, highlighting the collaboration between the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, the Coptic Church, and UNESCO as a model of cultural stewardship.
'Preserving this exceptional site is not only a national responsibility but a global commitment. Abu Mena is a symbol of shared human heritage and deserves to be showcased as a cornerstone of Egypt's cultural and spiritual tourism,' he said.
He highlighted the ministry's strategy to promote Abu Mena internationally, integrating cutting-edge technology and Artificial Intelligence (AI) tools to enhance visitor engagement and awareness. Plans are also underway to train specialised tour guides and local monastery staff to ensure the high-quality interpretation of the site's historical and architectural significance.
Pope Tawadros II expressed his appreciation of the state's commitment to preserving Abu Mena, describing the efforts as 'a great national achievement that reflects Egypt's respect for its diverse heritage.' He noted that the site attracts visitors from across Egypt, both Christians and Muslims, as well as international pilgrims.
Governor Ahmed Khaled reiterated the governorate's full support for the restoration and development of Abu Mena, calling it a vital component of Alexandria's cultural identity and a key destination on Egypt's heritage tourism map.
Mohamed Ismail Khaled, secretary-general of the SCA, described the groundwater project as a turning point in protecting the site, moving it closer to removal from the UNESCO List of World Heritage in Danger. He affirmed the SCA's continued dedication to managing archaeological sites with professionalism and foresight.
He said the ministry had sent UNESCO a report on the state of preservation of the site in February 2022, along with details of corrective measures. The report includes details of the groundwater-lowering project and an integrated management plan proposed for the first time at the site since it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1979, including plans to evaluate risks, amend the boundaries of the archaeological site, and ensure its preservation and restoration.
Sanz commended the integrated approach adopted at Abu Mena, calling the project a 'valuable learning experience' and a testament to the importance of shared responsibility in safeguarding World Heritage.
As part of the development plan, the site will soon feature improved signage, eco-friendly visitor services, and full accessibility for visitors with disabilities. These enhancements aim to provide a seamless and inclusive visitor experience that reflects the site's profound historical and spiritual significance.
'We are here to celebrate the spirit of partnership. The conservation plan of the World Heritage Site has been a learning process for all of us. It was not just about assessment or technicalities. This is a site that is managed and preserved by many actors and institutions. And we are all part of this endeavour, and we have felt since the beginning a sense of shared responsibility,' Sanz said.
HISTORY: Beyond its material preservation, the Abu Mena Monastery holds deep spiritual value for the Coptic community.
Historically, pilgrims travelled from across the Mediterranean to visit the shrine of St Mena, seeking healing and blessings. With the restoration efforts, officials hope to renew this legacy by preparing the site to once again receive religious pilgrims and visitors from around the world.
The Abu Mena site was one of the great centres of pilgrimage in Egypt from the fifth to seventh centuries CE. Thousands of people came from all over the Christian world seeking healing, and pilgrims took home holy water in tiny pottery ampoules shaped like two-handled jars and stamped with the figure of the saint between two camels or oil from the lamp that burned before the tomb.
Gamal Mustafa, head of Islamic, Coptic, and Jewish Antiquities at the SCA, said that the architectural features of the Abu Mena site, spanning a diverse array of building types, bear strong influences from Egyptian architectural traditions. These elements vividly showcase the fusion of traditional Egyptian architecture with diverse styles from the wider Mediterranean Basin, marking a significant advancement in early Christian architectural design and customs.
The property encompasses all the essential elements to convey its Outstanding Universal Value for UNESCO listing, including the preserved archaeological structures of the Abu Mena Monastery with its integrated plan, thereby fulfilling the requirements of integrity.
The structural integrity of the churches, St Mena's tomb, pilgrim accommodations, public baths, workshops, and cisterns remains robust, with regular maintenance efforts in progress. Nonetheless, the property remains vulnerable to risks posed by heavy rainfall, winds, humidity, and fire, underscoring the ongoing need for vigilance and protection measures, UNESCO has said.
The authenticity of the property is underscored by several key attributes, including the overall design of the monastery and its structures, as well as the preservation of original building materials, initially documented during excavations in 1905. These materials encompass limestone, bricks, mortars, and marble, contributing to the unique architectural composition and layout of the Christian centre alongside the remarkably intact holy marble settlement.
While complete historical structures are scarce, remnants such as lower sections, floor plans, and certain vertical elements persist, faithfully representing their original form, design, and substance.
The original urban layout has been meticulously maintained, showcasing surviving buildings such as the grand basilica, the martyr's tomb, churches, hostels, and public edifices. Additionally, the presence of olive, raisin, and wine presses offers insight into the development of industry and technology during this early historical period, dating back to the fourth century CE.
These elements collectively contribute to the authenticity of the property, preserving its rich heritage and cultural significance for future generations to learn from and enjoy.
Coptic Bishop Badawes Avamena, responsible for antiquities at the Abu Mena Monastery, said that Mena was a soldier-saint who had died a martyr's death during the Roman period.
His cult gained popularity when, according to legend, his body was placed on a camel and borne inland to be buried. At a certain spot, the camel refused to move further, a sign taken as a divine revelation that he should be buried there.
Wind-blown sand eventually covered the tomb of the saint, and no trace was left. Some centuries later, a shepherd observed that a sick lamb that had crossed the spot had become well. When the remains of the saint were rediscovered, a church was built over his grave.
The reputation of the place spread far and wide. Pilgrims came in scores, and the stories of the cures that they carried home attracted more pilgrims. Soon the original church was too small to accommodate the number of visitors, and the Roman emperor Arcadius (395-408 CE) built another church, to which the saint's relics were transferred.
Subsequent emperors erected other buildings, and eventually the site's basilica was built, to which thousands of pilgrims flocked from as far afield as England, France, Germany, Spain, and Turkey. Cures were attributed to the therapeutic effects of water from springs in the area's limestone rocks, and baths were built flanking the church.
When the Roman emperor Constantine the Great's only daughter, who suffered from leprosy, was reputedly healed at the pilgrimage site, its fame spread further throughout the Roman world.
A great city grew up, flourished, and then eventually disappeared. Though written about by classical writers, the city was thought to have been legendary until in 1961 the German Archaeological Institute excavated the area under the direction of archaeologist Peter Grossman and discovered one of the largest and most ancient pilgrimage sites in the world.
The ruins cover an area of one square km where the main colonnaded pilgrimage route of the early Christians has been identified. It had shops and workshops to the left and right, leading to the Church of the Martyr Mena built during the era of the Byzantine emperor Justinian (528-565 CE).
The ruins suggest that pilgrims gathered in a great square surrounded by hostels. There, monks could take care of the sick who came to the shrine to be healed. There are also the ruins of two large bathhouses and wells.
A new monastery has now been built at the site, its lofty walls and twin towers situated no more than 500 metres from the ancient site.
The site was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979 because it is an outstanding example of one of the first early Christian monastic centres developed in the Near East. Beyond its religious significance, it served as a prominent pilgrimage destination, boasting a larger settlement compared to many contemporary sites in the region.
As Egypt moves forward with the rehabilitation of Abu Mena, there is a renewed sense of optimism. By combining technical expertise, community engagement, and government commitment, the country is setting an example in heritage preservation that echoes far beyond the sands of Borg Al-Arab.
* A version of this article appears in print in the 29 May, 2025 edition of Al-Ahram Weekly
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