Between the shores of the Indian Ocean

Observer

7 days ago

If you are a history buff, then you would have also been engrossed in the conversation which was part of a speech at an investment forum.
The forum was on investment opportunities in East Africa, and as the chairman began to reveal the investment opportunities in the changing dynamics of development the region is going through, he took a moment to reflect.
East Africa and Oman share a history spanning over twenty centuries, he said.
And then the story began.
Omani merchants arrived on East African shores as early as the 2nd century, establishing trade routes that thrived by the 1700s.
And I thought, thus began a story that wove endless chapters that continue till today. And here I am, I spoke to myself, thinking how lucky I was to listen to this story which has a lot of my friends connected in one way or the other. They have told me their experiences and fond memories.
The chairman of the East African Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture, Richard Ngatia said, "Our historical ties run deeper than mere trade, woven intricately through the fabric of our shared monetary and cultural heritage."
According to him, the Sultanate of Oman introduced the rupee to Zanzibar as early as 1832, laying an important financial cornerstone for regional commerce. The rupee spread extensively into the East African hinterland from 1896 onwards with the commencement of the Kenya-Uganda Railway.
"Our cultural linkages remain evident today; for example, rich Omani heritage is prominently reflected in the architecture and cultural traditions of Zanzibar, traditional Omani dance styles closely resemble those of Lamu Island in Kenya, and Omani influences appear in historical trading practices and cultural interactions in Rwanda. Reflecting our shared heritage," he said.
Think about it - the waters of the Indian Ocean, nestling the wooden dhows that followed the currents and the wind sailing aligned to the North Star.
No wonder the star near the North Celestial Pole is understood to represent hope, guidance and constancy.
The Indian Ocean was the original link between East Africa and Oman, and it remains a vital resource today.
And now, I wanted to know more, and one of the best persons to speak from experience is Ahmed al Mahrouqi.
A phone call to ask him all the questions and to share all his thoughts on the journeys across the Indian Ocean. The best part is that his childhood travels never left him. He cherishes the memories. Somewhere deep in his mind, he longs for the adventure.
I asked him which was the port he travelled from, and he said instantly, Duqm.
He remembers travelling back and forth as a child between the coasts of East Africa and Oman because his father had a business in Dar es Salaam.
Other options were Sur, Mahout, Suhar and Al Musannah and, of course, Muttrah. These areas also were used to travel to other countries, such as Iraq, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia and Bahrain, pointed out Ahmed.
As Ahmed went on the voyages to Tanzania or while coming back to Oman, they used to have stops. He remembers that they used to stop in Mogadishu, Somalia, Yemen, and other places for water. They used to travel after the monsoon. Around 70 people could travel in one dhow. They travelled together in six to seven dhows. Between Tanga and Zanzibar, the distance was like Shannah and Masirah, just about 30 km, he recollected.
To Africa, Omanis went to the "Islands of the Moon", he said. And that made me look around and ask others about Juzur al Qamar.
Then a friend explained, "The Comoros Islands."
The Comoros Islands, the archipelago, are located in the Indian Ocean between Madagascar and Mozambique. Apparently, the name is derived from the Arabic word "Qamar", which means "moon". The story goes that the name was given by Arab seafarers.
Ahmed said excitedly, "If you go to Comoros, you will notice that it looks so much like Sur."
Lakshmi Kothaneth
The writer is senior editor of Observer