Make Better Burgers
Most often, recently, that's meant burger reverie. You can, of course, get great hamburgers on the road. Try the Red Rooster on Route 22 in Brewster, N.Y., or the Fat Boy on Bath Road in Brunswick, Maine. But behind the wheel, I dream most often of being home in front of the grill, cooking patties for my family and myself, in advance of a nap in an Adirondack chair, free of deadlines and appointments.
Kenji López-Alt has been of great assistance in this regard. He's put together a terrific new Cooking 101 guide to cooking burgers, and accompanied it with recipes that deliver blue-ribbon results.
I like his instructions for a smash burger (above), worth doubling up if you're hungry. (I cook that one on a griddle on my grill, though you could certainly use a cast-iron pan in the kitchen.) Also, his diner-style burger to recall the crusty, beef-forward one served at J.G. Melon in Manhattan, and his backyard burger, dimpled at the center, thick and tender, with a smoky char.
I serve each of these beneath cloaks of cheese, on toasted potato buns, with a swipe of mayonnaise (Duke's or bust!) and a couple of bread-and-butter-pickle chips and Melissa Clark's lemon potato salad with mint on the side. I hope you'll join me in making one or more of these this weekend.
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