Why Vitoria-Gasteiz is better for Basque pintxos than San Sebastian
Sitting at the smart, horseshoe bar of El Toloño, veteran head chef Josu Armiño is letting me into a secret. 'We've got something that I think other places don't have, and that's the simplicity of the way we use ingredients,' he says, sporting pristine chef's whites and a slightly mischievous smile. 'For me, the most important thing is the quality of the produce we have here.'
In the Basque capital of Vitoria-Gasteiz, El Toloño is one of the most locally revered pintxos bars — and for good reason. 'It's not about creating things with foams and all that,' Josu goes on to explain. 'It's about simplicity and building on the traditions of our grandparents' cooking,' he says. 'We add a touch of glamour and a bit more warmth and personality, but it's always on a base of traditional cooking. And I think that's the secret of what we do here in Vitoria and in the Basque country.'
Sitting under a neoclassical, 19th-century colonnade on the edge of Vitoria's pedestrianised main square, Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, award-winning El Toloño is a key stop for locals out for a poteo — the pintxos equivalent of a pub crawl. It's a Basque tradition I'm here to try for myself. On El Toloño's bar counter, each delicate pintxo certainly looks like it'll live up to Josu's description.
I decide to start with the gilda. Arguably the most famous of all Basque pintxos, it's made up of a Cantabrian anchovy skewered onto a cocktail stick between a plump, green manzanilla olive and a pickled green guindilla pepper. The gilda was named after Rita Hayworth's character in the eponymous 1946 film noir, which, at the time of its release, was considered so risque that it was banned by Spain's Francoist regime. Conceived as a homage to her punchy character, the gilda's combination of slightly bitter, fruity olive, salty anchovy and spicy guindilla is anything but subtle.
It's the perfect opener to awaken my palate — especially when paired with a glass of txakoli, the Basque Country's signature dry yet refreshingly fruity white wine. Josu pours it from a great height with a theatrical flourish, as is tradition. By the time I've finished, the bar, with its elegant mix of slate-toned walls and black-and-white floor tiles, has filled up with middle-aged men in puffer jackets and smartly dressed businesswomen. Their lively chatter mingles with the clanking of beer glasses and coffee cups.
Despite its popularity, there's still nowhere near the amount of elbow jostling you'll find in many bars in nearby San Sebastián or even Bilbao, both an hour's drive north to the coast. While glamorous San Sebastián may have risen to stardom thanks to its pintxos and fine dining culture, not to mention its superb beachside location, those in the know will tell you that Vitoria is the secret jewel in the Basque Country's culinary crown. Its inland location means that it benefits from both easy access to seafood from the Bay of Biscay and exceptional beef, vegetables and fruit from the countryside. It's been the Basque capital since 1980, when many of Spain's regional boundaries were drawn up in the aftermath of the Franco dictatorship. Yet its tourism profile has suffered from the fact that it has neither a coastal location nor international airport.
In the spirit of the poteo, I take a short walk from El Toloño past the belle époque townhouses and tram tracks that flow down Vitoria's tree-lined avenues. My next stop is PerretxiCo, another bar that's won numerous awards in the Basque Country's pintxos competitions. These annual events see bars vie with one another in an effort to create the tastiest and most innovative pintxos. One previous winner I'm intrigued to try is PerretxiCo's La Vacuna, which translates as 'the vaccine'.
It's a beef meatball of sorts, encased in a shell of crisp batter and topped with flying-fish roe. The dish arrives at my table alongside a small plastic syringe filled with a beefy jus, which I'm instructed to inject into the meatball. I do as I'm told, and find the intense, almost Bovril-like gravy adds a deliciously comforting warmth to the mix of crispy outer coating and finely textured minced meat.
Taking a quick break from the kitchen in his black chef's apron, PerretxiCo's head chef Josean Merino tells me that La Vacuna was invented during the pandemic, 'to add a touch of humour'. It's also about balance. Josean says: 'I always say that a pintxo is one of the most complicated dishes to prepare, because you have to concentrate everything into one or two bites and get an almost surgical balance between the textures and flavours.'
As the sound of church bells marks the hour, I leave PerretxiCo to head into the steep, narrow, medieval streets of Vitoria's Old Quarter, high on a hilltop. Not far from the magnificent, 13th-century gothic cathedral and elegant, neoclassical palacios and plazas, I find El Portalón, one of the city's most famous restaurants. Set in a large, half-timbered house that was once a 15th-century staging post and inn, El Portalón also offers its own prize-winning pintxos. One of its signature dishes is the octopus carpaccio — tender slices of octopus lightly dusted with sweet paprika, served with dried red peppers on a small piece of rustic, home-baked farmhouse bread. I put in my order and pull up a chair in the cobbled entrance yard, originally used as the building's stables.
'Going out to eat is a big part of life here in Vitoria,' says El Portalón's manager and head chef Alberto Ortiz de Zárate, a youthful looking 50-year-old who comes to say hello. He first joined his father as a commis chef in El Portalón's kitchen some 18 years ago. 'People appreciate good food and don't mind paying a little extra for it, so restaurants can spend more on the best produce, resulting in a higher-quality range of dishes,' he says, trying to put his finger on what makes Vitoria's food scene — and that of the broader Basque Country — so special. 'It's a cultural act — spending time at the table with friends and family, and enjoying it. It's not just about the food. It's about being with the people you care about — spending less time on your mobile phone and more time appreciating life.'
Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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National Geographic
a day ago
- National Geographic
Inside Pittsburgh's iconic pickle festival
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Ten glass jars of briny pickle juice are lined up on tables swathed in neon green and yellow cloths. Each is filled to the brim with just under a litre of the acidic liquid, and behind them there's a row of competitors gearing up to chug the contents. While many seem confident, playing up to the crowd with frenetic waving, others shift on the spot, eyeing the jars nervously while contemplating their decision to participate in this curious event. After a run through of the rules — no hands off the jar until you're finished, and no excessive spillage — the participants inch closer to the table and unscrew the jars' lids, liberating the sour scent. 'Three, two, one, go!' a voice screeches over a microphone, and in swift synchronicity, the contestants knock their heads back and bring the jars up to their gaping mouths. Clapping rips through the crowd, each spectator looking on in awe, disbelief or disgust. Within eight seconds, an emptied jar is slammed back onto the table, the pale-faced victor spitting into his waste bag before raising his arms in triumph. This curious ritual is one of three 'dill-cathalon' games — the others being pickle bobbing and pickle eating — that encapsulate the chaotic and competitive spirit of Picklesburgh, an annual festival which transforms Downtown Pittsburgh into a three-day celebration of all things pickle, gherkins and dill. Pickle-reletated memorabilia is in hot demand at Picklesburgh. Photograph by Pittsburgh Downtown Partnership Founded in 2015 by the Pittsburgh Downtown Partnership, a non-profit organisation developing community initiatives in the area, the event was created to recognise the city's connection to the humble pickle, from its origins as the birthplace of Heinz (which first bottled pickled condiments in Sharpsburg, just across the Allegheny River from Pittsburgh, before creating its iconic ketchup) to more multicultural iterations of the delicacy found in the city today. 'There wasn't much on here in the summer months and we wanted to change that,' explains Jeremy Waldrup, president and CEO of the partnership. Its debut saw 20,000 pickle fanatics descend on the city. This year — the festival's 10th anniversary — saw 200,000 attendees peruse almost 60 stalls stretching from PPG Plaza to Market Square and continuing across two of the city's Three Sisters bridges. 'It's taken on a life of its own. We see this as much more than a street festival — it's a uniquely Pittsburgh celebration we're proud to be stewards of.' My exploration of pickled goods begins at the Roberto Clemente Bridge, where I notice a giant inflatable pickle floating in the sky before I stop at Pittsburgh Mobile Bars to try some pickled pink lemonade. Visually, it's got a signature rosy-coloured tint, but a sip quickly reveals a sharp tang slicing through the sherbet. It's zingy with a strong taste of dill, yet somehow not overpowering. 'Every year, the pickled pink lemonade seems to be very popular,' says team member Heather Luimes, who mentions that the bar also serves an alcoholic version made with vodka later in the day. Any initial reservations I might've had subside; it's the perfect cooler on a hot July afternoon. Next, The Brinery at Two Acre Farm offers sliced pickles stuffed into a cup of juice infused with maple, bourbon and peach, while Burgatory serves up pickled smash burgers with layers of gooey cheese, crispy bacon and chunky tomato slices. One of the longest lines is for Giovanni's on Sixth Street, where large slices of pizza topped with pickles, bacon and onion are being churned out to meet relentless demand. I make my way to Andy Warhol Bridge and stop at the Grandpa Joe's Candy Shop stand. 'We're Pittsburgh born and Pittsburgh proud, so it [Picklesburgh] is somewhere we have to be,' says Kate Speer, Grandpa Joe's VP of marketing and brand development. Treats on offer include the company's bestselling pickle saltwater taffy. At first, the pale-green candy's flavour is gentle, but the dill quickly gains momentum as the stretchy remnants stick to the roof of my mouth. Another sweet treat gaining traction is Redbeard's pickle mango sorbet, which has liquidised in the heat. The sorbet, now resembling a slushie, is punchy — the mango flavour fades but the tang of pickle lingers. Many of the stalls are operated by businesses from across southwestern Pennsylvania, and 'many of them have been with us for the entire 10 years', says Jeremy. One such vendor is Gosia's Pierogies, run by Terry Smith-Rawecki and her husband Jan. Every year, they put a briny spin on the classic Polish dumplings with their limited-edition dill pickle pierogi, also made with potato and cheese. The dumpling recipe is from Terry's family in Poland, and the remaining ingredients are a closely guarded secret. 'Picklesburgh makes us very proud of the work we do,' says Terry. 'I'll be there until I'm physically unable [to return].' The festival hosts three 'dill-cathalon' games — pickle juice drinking, pickle bobbing and pickle eating. Photograph by Pittsburgh Downtown Partnership Over on PPG Plaza, intergenerational festivalgoers fly through air as they're flung off a bucking mechanical pickle, arms flailing, onto an inflatable mat below. The ride, a new addition for this year, resembles an oversized, asymmetrical pickle fitted with a single front handle and Velcro strap. It careens erratically, tilting riders in all directions before vaulting them off. Excitement spills out from under the tent, the crowd cheering for those managing to stay on for more than half a minute and offering a consolatory clap for those on the mat within seconds. Once defeated, participants receive green, sparkly medals and rejoin the masses, brows sweatier than before. In its decade of existence, Picklesburgh has solidified itself as a flagship event not only for the city, but its 50,000 out-of-state and international visitors, too. 'There are folks from all walks of life coming together, from those in their business clothes on a Friday afternoon lunch excursion to others who've made their own T-shirts because they're excited to celebrate the pickle,' says Jeremy. 'I love how our businesses and our community have taken this event on.' Amid the memorabilia emblazoned with puns, including 'I'm kind of a big dill', three friends clad in pickle costumes stand out. 'This is a holiday for us,' say Alexandria Sahyoun, Aidan McDanel and Julia Gurevitz in unison, their upbeat, breathless voices overlapping. They've each just had a turn riding the pickle and their cheeks are flushed as they fiddle with the medals they received for taking on the challenge. Originally from neighbouring Ohio, they've been coming to all three days of Picklesburgh for the last five years. 'This is our Christmas and our New Year's Eve. We're here every year — we can't miss it.' Picklesburgh takes place in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania and is free to attend. Pittsburgh Regional Transit provides bus, light rail, and incline services across the city, and from Pittsburgh International Airport. Taxis are also widely available. Stay at Tryp by Wyndham in Lawrenceville, double rooms from $148 (£110). For more information, head to Visit Pittsburgh. This story was created with the support of Visit Pittsburgh. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
Los Angeles Times
2 days ago
- Los Angeles Times
Dogs, kids, pizza and fine wine: A new Altadena gathering spot
The feel of an Italian festa in Altadena, the South Bay's 'time capsule' Japanese food scene, delivery drones, a tasting menu hidden in a parking lot, more downtown L.A. closures, a Basque restaurant's last days. Plus, recycle or reuse? And a bar that celebrates burlesque and red Solo cups. I'm Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, with this week's Tasting Notes. When I first started going to Italy for summer vacations with my late husband, Jonathan Gold, and the extended friends and family of chef Nancy Silverton, we'd get to know different areas of Umbria and Tuscany through festas or sagras, local gatherings centered around a specific regional dish or ingredient — maybe cinghiale (wild boar), porcini mushrooms, summer truffles or various pastas such as strozzapreti (which is being celebrated this week in the Umbrian town of Paciano). These are kid-friendly, come-as-you-are parties, typically on a soccer field or town square with long tables, local wine poured into plastic cups and food often served by volunteer cooks pitching in to help raise money for a good cause. Until recently, the closest I'd come to experiencing that sagra spirit in Los Angeles was the run of summer movie nights that Leo Bulgarini used to host outside his Altadena gelateria and restaurant Bulgarini Gelato Vino Cucina. He and his crew piled plates with pasta and salad before sunset signaled the start of the movie, often an Italian comedy or melodrama, projected onto an outdoor wall or a large, jerry-rigged screen. People would bring their kids and dogs, meet up with neighbors and settle into camping chairs or benches with their wine or cups of gelato once the movie began. Bulgarini's restaurant, which escaped the flames of the Eaton fire in January, has yet to reopen because of smoke damage and the loss of so much of the neighborhood around his shop — not to mention the fact that he, his wife and their son lost their home in the blaze. But two other Altadena business owners have joined forces with local restaurants to create one of the most welcoming neighborhood gatherings with the soul of an Italian sagra. As senior food editor Danielle Dorsey wrote in the guide she and Stephanie Breijo put together on the 21 best new bars in Los Angeles, a summer pop-up series has emerged outside Good Neighbor, 'the first cocktail bar to open in Altadena in 40 years,' and West Altadena Wine + Spirits, both opened last year by Randy Clement and April Langford, the couple behind Everson Royce Bar in the Arts District, Silverlake Wine and the former Pasadena wine shop Everson Royce. 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A roving Good Neighbor barkeep took cocktail orders at the picnic tables. And on the side of the building, at a takeout-style window, a West Altadena Wine merchant was selling glasses and flights of wine. Almost as soon as I arrived, I reconnected with a friend I hadn't seen in years as well as a family from my daughter's old high school. The San Gabriel mountains in the near distance turned pink and purple during sunset, framed by a U-Haul sign as we ate our pizza, which arrived with all colors and shapes of tomato. With it, we sipped Sébastien Bobinet and Émeline Calvez's Piak blanc de noir from clear plastic cups. It was a perfect summer evening, made poignant with a stop on the way out at the wall-sized map created by Highland Park production designer Noel McCarthy marking the more than 9,000 homes and businesses destroyed or damaged in the fire, and the places where people died. The map, as writer Marah Eakin reported in April, has helped people visualize the shocking extent of the fire's devastation, even as Good Neighbor's summer gatherings have brought people together, a reminder of why so many want to rebuild this community. Food's summer intern Lauren Ng is headed back to school soon, but before she left to resume her studies at New York University, the Torrance native finished a project examining the 'time capsule' nature of Japanese food in the South Bay. The area is 'home to the biggest suburban Japanese community in the United States,' thanks in no small part to three of Japan's biggest automakers — Toyota, Honda and Nissan — establishing their U.S. headquarters in the region during the 1960s. The car companies are now gone, but many of the restaurants remain, with a new generation of South Bay places opened in recent years. Ng visited many of them and wrote a guide to 18 of the best Japanese restaurants and food producers in the South Bay. In 2019, when former Times columnist Frank Shyong reported on the changes in Chinatown that contributed to the closure of Ai Hoa Market and G and G Market, he wrote that one of the few places left to buy affordable fruits and vegetables in the neighborhood was Amy Tran's Yue Wa Market. Now, as columnist Jenn Harris wrote this week, Tran and her family will close Yue Wa next month after 18 years serving Chinatown. A spate of robberies, slow pandemic recovery, ICE raids and the forces of gentrification contributed to the family's decision. 'I don't feel ready to let go of the store, but there's not much I can do to bring more people in,' Tran told Harris. 'Business was booming and a lot of people used to come around, but now there is no foot traffic and a lot of people have moved away from Chinatown.' More downtown losses: It was only a couple of weeks ago that I was at downtown L.A.'s Tokyo Fried Chicken, where, I must admit, the dining room was sparsely populated but four-wheeled robot carts were kept busy with takeout deliveries. Yet as Karla Marie Sanford reported this week, after owners Elaine and Kouji Yamanashi announced they were closing the restaurant Aug. 10, customers suddenly showed up and waited in an hours-long line for one last chance to eat the chicken known for its super-crisp skin and soy sauce-ginger marinade. It was a brief return to the restaurant's days in its original Monterey Park location where lines for a table were constant. The downtown location had the bad luck to open just before the pandemic and never had a chance to reach its full potential. Elaine Yamanashi told Sanford that she and her chef husband hope at some point to find a new location for Tokyo Fried Chicken. 'We're taking this time, not off,' she said, 'but to reflect.' Meanwhile, Angel City Brewery, founded in 1997 by Michael Bowe then acquired in 2012 by Boston Beer — a year after the company established its downtown brewpub location notable for its distinctive neon signage that acted as a welcome to the Arts District — announced that it will close next April when the building's lease is up. 'The brand no longer lines up with our long-term growth strategy,' said a Boston Beer spokesperson, adding that the company plans to focus on its 'core national brands,' which include Samuel Adams. And LA Cha Cha Chá in the Arts District, with its lush, tropical rooftop, is also set to close sometime this fall according to co-owner Alejandro Marín. There wasn't an empty seat at Glendora Continental when contributor Jean Trinh stopped into the 45-year-old restaurant on Route 66, 'a reminder,' she writes, 'of fading connections to the Basque diaspora in California.' Now that the owners have put the restaurant up for sale, its days are numbered so regular customers have been showing up for live music and the Continental's 'mix of Basque, French and American food,' including lamb shank, prime rib, pickled tongue and escargots à la bourguignonne. 'I would say it's Basque with a sprinkle of American,' co-owner Antoinette Sabarots told Trinh, 'or vice versa.' Despite all the closure news, as Stephanie Breijo reports, good restaurants keep opening in Los Angeles, including Baby Bistro from chef Miles Thompson and his sommelier business partner, Andy Schwartz. They call it an 'Angeleno bistro,' with inspiration from Japanese, Korean, Italian, Mexican, French and more cuisines. 'I think the food is really defined by the cultures of Los Angeles,' Thompson told Breijo. 'If you already eat at any of the regional or international restaurants in this city, you'll find inspiring foods that go into this menu.' And chef Jeff Strauss, of the Highland Park deli Jeff's Table and OyBar in Studio City, has set up a weekend-only six-course tasting menu spot called Vey in the back parking lot of OyBar. As Strauss described it to Breijo, he thinks of it as 'a casual, rolling omakase.' Another hidden spot is Evan Funke's new Bar Avoja (slang for 'hell yeah'), a Hollywood cocktail lounge accessed through the dining room of the chef's Mother Wolf restaurant. In addition to drinks, Roman street food is on the menu. Meanwhile, the chef's namesake Beverly Hills restaurant, Funke, is temporarily closed due to a fire in the kitchen's exhaust system on Tuesday. As Breijo reported, no one was hurt and there was minimal damage. Also, Hong Kong's Hi Bake chain has opened a pet-friendly branch in Beverly Hills serving 'banana rolls, thousand-layer cakes, meat floss rolls and egg tarts. And San Francisco's Boichik Bagels, which opened in Los Feliz earlier this year, is now serving at downtown L.A.'s landmark Bradbury Building. Former L.A. Weekly nightlife columnist and Los Angeles magazine editor Lena Lecaro writes about Uncle Ollie's Penthouse, a new downtown L.A. bar with 'wild, color-saturated decor, potent cocktails served in red Solo cups and a soundtrack that inspires stomping the floor with pals or singing along with strangers.' 'I can't remember the last time I felt so connected to my hometown as an L.A. native,' musician Taleen Kali told Lecaro. 'I also love that you get to keep your own party cup all night — it's a total vibe, plus it's less wasteful and more sustainable.' When Mei Lin, chef and proprietor of 88 Club in Beverly Hills and former 'Top Chef' and 'Tournament of Champions' winner, demonstrated her spicy mung bean noodle recipe in the Times Test Kitchen for our 'Chef That!' video series, we all wanted to try making the noodles. It's a lot easier and fun to do than most of us thought. You start with a startchy base that thickens into jelly in a bowl. After you unmold the gelatinous blob, you scrape a grater over the mound, forming the noodles. Then it's just a matter of seasoning the noodles with chile, peanuts and herbs. The Times' Food Bowl Night Market, this year presented by Square, is taking place Oct. 10 and 11 at City Market Social House downtown. Among the participating restaurants announced so far are Holbox, Baroo, the Brothers Sushi, OyBar, Heritage Barbecue, Crudo e Nudo, Hummingbird Ceviche House, Rossoblu, Perilla LA, Evil Cooks and Holy Basil. VIP tickets that allow early entry always go fast. Check for tickets and info. And at this year's LA Chef Conference on Oct. 6, an all-day event taking place at Redbird and Vibiana in downtown L.A., I'll be on a panel with Roy Choi, Nancy Silverton, Ludo Lefebvre and Evan Kleiman talking about the legacy of Jonathan Gold. Find information on tickets and other events at the conference here.
National Geographic
2 days ago
- National Geographic
7 classic Italian journeys, from Vespa rides to vintage trams
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Italy hasn't stopped moving since the Romans began building their extensive road network, and the country has a penchant for speed and drama — despite its reputation for a slow, savoured approach to life. Whether you choose to board a plucky Vespa or a zippy vaporino, ride a poker-red Ferrari or a sky-scraping cableway, this way of exploring brings a fresh perspective and up-close interaction with some masterful examples of Italian craftsmanship. Lake Como by vaporina Dark varnished wood, buffed to a bar-top lustre; curvaceous metallic detailing, glinting under sunlight; cushy leather banquettes, for kicking back with an icy glass — Lake Como's vintage vaporinas are part-artwork, part-motorboat. The sightseeing mode of choice since the late 1800s, these vessels ferry visitors between opulent hotels, waterside towns and tucked-away villas in high style. Operators like Como Classic Boats offer driver-guides who'll zoom you across the peak-ringed expanse of blue, pointing out landmarks such as palatial Villa del Balbianello, featured in the James Bond film Casino Royale. One-hour tour from €370 (£314). Tuscany by Vespa Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck's 1953 film Roman Holiday made the Italian scooter world famous, and the vehicle retains plenty of star power today. Its 1940s-era design has barely changed over the decades, and the region that manufactures them has a similarly timeless appeal. Get behind the handlebars on a day-long guided trip with Tuscany Vespa Tours. Its 20-mile route zooms past Chianti vineyards and cypress trees, and it includes a stop for lunch and an olive oil tasting. From €95 (£82) per person. Whether you choose to board a plucky Vespa or a sky-scraping cableway, get an up-close interaction with some masterful examples of Italian craftsmanship. Photograph by Lee Frost, AWL Images Turin by vintage tram Board Turin's number seven tram line and you might think you've entered a time machine. Its beautifully preserved cars — built variously between 1910 and the 1950s — take passengers past handsome baroque buildings, the gleaming windows of 19th-century Porta Nuova station and the Renaissance-era Duomo. Settle in for the full loop, around an hour, or hop on and off for gallery visits and pit stops at art nouveau cafes — its circular route is perfect for laid-back sightseeing and a bargain, too, priced the same as a standard Turin transport ticket. Tickets from €1.90 (£1.60). Matera by luxury train In April, Orient Express launched its La Dolce Vita service, putting Italy at the forefront of a new age in luxury rail travel. Effectively a high-end boutique hotel on tracks, its seven passenger carriages are replete with nods to mid-century Italian design, from polished metallics to exquisite fabrics in juicy hues. Kick back in the dining car — order a negroni or a dish from a menu designed by lauded chef Heinz Beck — while watching the scenery slip by on the way to the mountaintop, UNESCO-listed city of Matera, home to ancient cave dwellings cut from tufa stone. Two-night Rome-Matera trip from €5,780 (£4,990) per person. Emilia-Romagna by Ferrari This region is famously the home of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Parma ham and balsamic vinegar — unless you're a petrolhead, in which case you'll know it as the birthplace of the Ferrari. Supercar fans flock to the city of Maranello to visit the official Ferrari Museum (€27/£23), while 12 miles north is the Autodromo di Modena (two laps from €704/£607) circuit, where you can get behind the wheel yourself. Even better is the chance to test drive a Ferrari in the Modena Apennines, feeling the guttural roar of the engine as you tackle hair-raising hairpins and pass forested hamlets in a blur. 10km (just over six miles) test drive from €190 (£163). Capri by yacht Beloved by a 1960s jet set that included Grace Kelly and Sophia Loren, the sunny island of Capri — off the southerly Amalfi and Sorrento Coasts — has long been a byword for glamour. Its rugged coastline and hidden caves, framed by glittering waters in variegated blues and greens, are best explored by yacht — but you needn't be in possession of an A-list budget. Capri Island Tour has slickly styled traditional gozzo boats, available for private hire by the hour or day. Two-hour private tour from €190 (£163). Aosta Valley by cable car Floating above the plunging valleys, Alpine meadows and ashen peaks of the Aosta Valley, Skyway Monte Bianco sets out from Courmayeur to ferry visitors to Italy's highest accessible point — Punta Helbronner, an eye-watering 11,370ft above sea level — and views to the snow-capped summit of Mont Blanc, just over the French border. On your way back, stop at the halfway Pavilion station to visit boundary-pushing Cave Mont Blanc, home to some of Europe's highest vineyards and an experimental high-altitude winery. Round trip Courmayeur-Punta Helbronner from €58 (£50). Published in the September 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
