I stayed at Switzerland's only beach resort — this is my honest review

Metro

09-06-2025

Hugging the northern shore of Lake Maggiore, on the fringes of colourful Ascona, Hotel Eden Roc enjoys views more commonly associated with the Mediterranean than Switzerland.
The only beach resort in a country known for its majestic peaks and verdant meadows is a stunning escape from a frightening world, with an impressive spa and a private marina where palm trees sway and speedboats bob.
Hidden behind sunshine-coloured walls, the hotel has four superb restaurants and a five-star menu of activities that includes windsurfing, water skiing, and sunset yoga.
You might come for luxury, but what you'll remember is the view (and the preposterously good breakfast).
We have to start with location.
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Set on the outskirts of Ascona, a sun-kissed settlement in the Swiss canton of Ticino, the hotel blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings. Against a backdrop of mountains and rippling water, a morning on a sun lounger in the pretty gardens could quiet even the most frazzled mind.
Its lakeside perch is breathtaking, but if you fancy exploring, the heart of Ascona is less than a five-minute stroll (you can read more about the destination here).
Unlike other high-end hotels, Eden Roc feels upmarket without being pretentious.
On arrival, I'm greeted with a smile, and the impeccable service continues past check-out — a driver is on hand to drive you 10 minutes to the nearest train station.
Guests roam about in their robes, which adds to the relaxed dolce vita vibe.
The spa is enormous (sprawled over 2,000sqm) and of the highest quality.
There are saunas and steam baths with intricate tiling inspired by Turkish hammams, plus a hair and beauty salon, treatment rooms for massage and facials, and two large swimming pools.
You could easily spend a weekend cocooned here, but most of the activity takes place outdoors.
Included in your stay is bike rental (pedal and e-bike) and a comprehensive range of water sports. Staff run guided hikes to prehistoric ruins that tower over the town, and will even charter a motorboat so you can cruise the lake, taking in sights like the subtropical Brissago Islands.
The 1970s facade looks unassuming, even a little modest. But behind the doors of the hotel's main building (it's spread across three), the class of the resort quickly reveals itself.
There are 95 rooms and suites, all furnished by local interior designer Carlo Rampazzi. All have balconies with views of the mountains or lake (some have both), and cavernous bathrooms with tubs big enough for two.
Yes, and you should. You're spoiled for choice, with four restaurants serving twists on classic Mediterranean fare.
Restaurant Eden Roc, an elegant all-rounder with a romantic lakeside terrace, serves one of the best hotel breakfasts I've come across. As well as a buffet of pastries, homemade chia puddings and every element of a continental breakfast known to humankind, there are waffles and a mimosa station to get the day started right.
By night, the restaurant turns into a theatre, with bow-tied staff preparing pasta and deliciously retro crêpes suzette at your table. Mauro's flambéing skill is something to behold.
While all of this is outrageously decadent, the hotel's 'Moving Mountains' programme puts equal emphasis on the holistic. It has five guiding pillars: move, play, nourish, rest and give. More Trending
These come to life in locally-sourced, plant-focused menus, and mindful activity classes such as meditation and breathwork.
One restaurant that doesn't quite fit with the rest of the hotel is La Marina, which serves an experimental fusion of Med, Middle Eastern and Asian cuisine. The muhammara was tasty, but I'm not sure it works as a starter for tagliatelle vongole.
Prices vary depending on the day of the week, but standard double rooms start from £475 (CHF 530) based on two adults sharing on B&B basis.
For families and bigger groups, the Junior Suite Mountain View starts at £1,213 (CHF 1350) for four people sharing, including breakfast.
Time: Switzerland is one hour ahead of the UK.
Weather: The average daily maximum temperature in June is around 21°C.
Adaptors: UK to EU travel adapter.
Currency: The local currency is the Swiss Franc (CHF).
Visas: You do not need a visa to visit any part of Switzerland, and can stay for periods of up to 90 days.
Check in/check out: You can check in from 3pm, and you'll need to check out before 12pm, but you can enjoy the spa and gardens until you need to leave.
Disability access? Yes. The hotel has a wheelchair-accessible spa, restaurants and check-in desk.
Standout feature: The lakeside location, the breakfast and the always helpful staff.
Perfect for: Couples, families and solo travellers who want to switch off.
Not right for: Large groups and anyone on a budget.
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