How to master the art of ring stacking like the Princess of Wales

Telegraph

6 days ago

It's been almost fifteen years since Prince William presented Kate Middleton with his late mother 's engagement ring – a stunning 12-carat blue sapphire surrounded by diamonds, estimated to be worth up to £400,000. It remains one of the most iconic engagement rings of our time. Over the years, the Princess of Wales has evolved the way she wears this famous design. At Wimbledon earlier this month, she wore a stack of four rings, including the renowned sapphire, each symbolising significant milestones.
The Princess' engagement ring was sandwiched between two eternity bands: a white-gold, diamond-set band, worth approximately £1,900 and believed to be a gift from the Prince of Wales following the birth of Prince George in 2013; and a sapphire and diamond eternity band, which she was first seen wearing last August in a video announcing the end of her cancer treatment.
She wore the newer eternity ring, thought to be from Cartier's Etincelle collection and valued at around £8,100, during her first post-chemotherapy engagement in October. This sparked speculation that it was a gift marking the close of a difficult chapter. It seemed to serve as a stand-in for the Princess' engagement ring, which she revealed hadn't been resized since it originally belonged to Princess Diana. The blue sapphires and diamonds echo the stones in Diana's ring but with a more practical, pared-back design.
The art of the stack
The Princess has worn the eternity bands together before, but this is the first time she has added them to her engagement ring. With her Welsh yellow-gold wedding band at the base of the stack, the four rings together tell the Princess' personal story. Wedding finger stacking is increasingly popular among women who want to build on, rather than replace, their most cherished jewels – updating the look of their engagement ring without altering the original.
'Eternity rings tend to mark moments that go beyond 'I do',' says jeweller Rachel Boston. 'Traditionally, they're given to celebrate milestone anniversaries or the birth of a child. But increasingly, we see clients choosing them to honour a chapter of their story when it feels right: a new home, a personal achievement, or simply to elevate their ring collection.'
Wedding stacks aren't static; they grow along with the marriage, Boston adds. 'Many of our clients add a second, even a third eternity-style band over time, creating a layered, meaningful story of their relationship – just as the Princess of Wales has shown with her own elegant stack.'
When it comes to creating a successful stack, variety is key: different metal tones and gemstone colours allow each ring to stand out. 'A thoughtful mix of widths and shapes keeps the look dynamic – perhaps a bold knife-edge band next to a delicate pavé eternity. Above all, it should feel uniquely yours.'
Colour play
'It's popular for clients to build a stack using different shapes, colours and textures – perhaps creating a 'jacket' around their engagement ring,' says jeweller Sophie Breitmeyer, whose eternity rings alternate diamonds with blue, pink or yellow sapphires, or tsavorite garnets, allowing customers to choose a favourite colour or meaningful birthstone.
Traditionally, the wedding band sits at the base of the stack, closest to the heart, as the Princess of Wales demonstrates. But there are no hard and fast rules about the order of rings – although sizing is an important consideration.
'One thing people often overlook is how stacking affects fit,' says Sophie Howard, founder of By Pariah. 'When you add multiple rings to one finger, the overall feel can be tighter. Sometimes going up half a size for stacking bands makes all the difference in comfort.'
By Pariah's bestselling ring stacks offer an instant layered look, combining diamond-set eternity rings with plain gold bands and wider bands of colourful agate or chalcedony. 'I find that odd numbers create a more dynamic look, and I always recommend balancing bold styles with more minimal ones,' says Howard.
Sizing up prevents a too-snug stack that can create an uncomfortable and unsightly bulge on the finger. Conversely, if an engagement ring has become too large, sandwiching it between two 'keeper' bands can help secure it without needing to resize. It's worth noting that fully set eternity bands – where diamonds or gemstones go all the way around – are difficult to resize, while bands that are half- or three-quarters set offer more flexibility for future adjustments.
How to avoid scratches
Wearing rings stacked snugly together requires some care. 'The main concern is hard stones rubbing directly against each other,' says Boston. 'Over time, diamonds can abrade one another or scratch softer stones. We often suggest a thin spacer band to protect the stones, or choosing eternity styles with a flush setting that minimises contact.'
Sophie Breitmeyer advises placing plain bands between gem-set rings, especially when the gemstones are held in claw settings. 'This not only helps protect the rings but also adds visual contrast and texture.' Philippa Fergusson and Sally Herbert, co-founders of bespoke jewellery brand Philippa Herbert, agree that channel-set eternity rings – where gemstones are secured between two thin bands of gold – offer more protection than claw-set designs, which risk stones falling out if the settings aren't regularly checked.
Eliza Walter, founder of Lylie, recommends stacking rings made from the same metal carat, such as 18ct gold or 950 platinum. 'This ensures they wear evenly and don't damage one another over time.' She adds that complementary metal tones, stone shapes, and setting styles help create visual harmony. 'Sticking to a consistent design language ensures the stack feels intentional and timeless, rather than mismatched or overly busy.'
Keep it neat
For a neat stack like the Princess of Wales's, engagement rings with large central stones should be made 'wed-fit,' advise Fergusson and Herbert. This means the central stone is slightly elevated, allowing wedding and eternity bands to slot snugly against it. Lower-profile engagement rings require curved eternity rings that follow their silhouette exactly – these will likely need to be bespoke to ensure a perfect fit.
Not all gemstones are suited to stacking. Softer stones such as opals and emeralds are prone to chipping or falling out, making them less ideal for everyday wear. 'For clients who want vibrant green tones, we suggest tsavorites, they offer a similar look but with much greater durability,' says Breitmeyer.
A final word of advice from Sophie Howard: 'Be mindful of what you wear on your other hand. We had a client who wore a chunky gold band on her left hand and our gemstone rings on the right, and unfortunately managed to damage the gemstone through enthusiastic clapping – must have been one hell of a game!'