The Sydney restaurant Nigella Lawson can't wait to visit as she prepares to return - and it's a firm favourite with Australia's top chefs

Daily Mail​

28-04-2025

Celebrity chef Nigella Lawson has revealed the Sydney restaurant she can't stop thinking about as she prepares to return to Australia - and it's no surprise it's a spot beloved by some of the country's top culinary names.
The British food icon told Gourmet Traveller that Ester in Chippendale is at the top of her must-visit list, praising chef Mat Lindsay as 'extraordinary' for his surprising yet delicious creations.
She recalled being convinced by a waiter named Ollie to try Ester's famous chicken fat oysters - a dish she initially thought sounded unappealing but ended up adoring.
'I love oysters anyway, but these were extraordinary,' she said, adding that while the concept might sound improbable, the flavours completely won her over.
Lawson isn't the only star chef singing Ester's praises.
Neil Perry, one of Australia's most celebrated restaurateurs, said Ester is his go-to for a long, lazy Sunday lunch.
'I'm having whatever Mat is telling me to have. I like it this way as the food is so good, it's too hard to choose,' Perry said.
The award-winning restaurant, known for its relaxed yet stylish interiors and wood-fired modern Australian fare, has become a firm favourite among off-duty chefs and serious foodies alike.
The World's 50 Best Restaurants panel called it one of Sydney's hottest dining destinations, noting: 'The fit out is minimal, mood informal and selection of wood-fired small plates ruthlessly streamlined. Bag yourself one of the hottest seats in Sydney.'
Ester offers an à la carte and set menu for lunch and dinner, with set menus only available on Saturday evenings starting from $145 per person.
Signature dishes include the woodfired oysters with chicken fat butter, the blood sausage sanga, and the fermented potato bread - a dish that chef Josh Niland recently described as a 'timeless masterpiece.'
Niland, the mastermind behind Saint Peter and the Fish Butchery, raved about Ester's potato bread to Broadsheet, calling it his 'favourite' snack in all of Sydney.
Mat Lindsay's restaurant continues to attract glowing reviews from diners too, many of whom specifically seek it out after hearing about the legendary potato bread.
'I came here because I stumbled upon a mention of potato bread. It is definitely the star of the show,' one reviewer said.
Another gushed, 'Every dish was a treat for the taste buds, but a few stood out to me in particular. The fermented potato bread with salmon roe and kefir cream was a unique and flavorful combination.'
A third simply said: 'The potato bread and condiments were next level amazing. It exceeded all the hype.'
Beyond the potato bread, regulars also rave about the wagyu flank with burnt onion, woodfired leeks, and the Yamba king prawns served with fermented shrimp butter.
All of Ester's dishes highlight Lindsay's ability to take humble ingredients and elevate them into something unforgettable.
With both local legends and international stars lining up to score a table, it's clear Ester has cemented itself as one of Sydney's true culinary treasures.