Kumbakonam vetrilai or betel leaf gets GI tag: Why cultivators, sellers need incentives and awareness to benefit

Indian Express

26-05-2025

The Kumbakonam vetrilai or betel leaf or paan leaf was recently granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag by the Government of India, recognising its regional uniqueness and cultural significance. A staple in South Asian households, the betel leaf is central to preparing paan, a popular South Asian post-meal chew. The GI tag, announced in April 2025, and published in the Government Gazette in November 2024, took Tamil Nadu's total GI products to 62. Yet, many cultivators, marginal farmers and sellers remain unaware of this recognition and the benefits that come with it.
Kumbakonam, six hours from Chennai, is home to vethalai or vetrilai, predominantly grown in Thanjavur's fertile Cauvery river basin, giving it a unique taste and aroma. The dark to light green, oblong heart-shaped leaves with a pungent taste are cultivated, washed and then bundled in places like Thiruvaiyaru, Papanasam, Thiruvidaimarudur, Kumbakonam, and Rajagiri.
Betel leaves aid digestion and are rich in antioxidants, said Kanikka Malhotra, a consultant dietician and diabetes educator. 'They're high in chavicol, an anti-inflammatory compound that fights oxidative stress, common in conditions like diabetes,' she said.
H Jahir Hussain, 43, a betel leaf seller in Kumbakonam's old vegetable market in Swaminatha Nagar, told indianexpress.com, 'I've been in this profession for 30 years. My father taught me and I taught my son. I believe betel is nature's powerful antidote to many health issues. I sell 100 leaves for Rs 80 to Rs 180. Every district has its own unique leaf. Ours is known across states, and even exported,' he said. Hussain's brother-in-law, too, runs a betel hovel adjacent to his.
Suresh, 39, a cultivator in Papanasam, has been in the business for three decades. He hires labourers to pluck mature leaves from the stem's side shoots once the vines reach a certain height. 'There are no days off. My day starts at 4 AM and I work till 11 PM, looking for skilled pluckers,' he said.
Mohamed Ariff, 41, from Rajagiri, has cultivated betel vines for five years. 'My father did this for 50 years. We plant in March-May and August-October, using banana suckers for shade. But out of 100 days, barely 10 days are profitable. Rest of the days, we face losses due to rain, soil, or lack of labour,' he said, adding that this leads to fluctuations in market prices. According to him, the labour and capital-intensive nature of the crop limits most farmers to under one acre of cultivation.
After 20–25 days of planting, kolundhu vetrilai – the first leaves – emerge. The first-year harvest happens from the seventh to 12th month. It is called maaruvethalai, produces larger leaves with a better shelf life of six to seven days, and fetches higher prices in the market. Second and third-year yields – kelavethalai and kattavethalai – are smaller compared to the first year's yield.
When indianexpress.com asked cultivators about the GI tag, none were aware. Sanjai Gandhi, an intellectual property attorney who filed for the GI status, acknowledged the gap. 'There's an urgent need to create awareness and incentivise farmers. I'm doing it through lectures and outreach,' he said.
Gandhi's application stated that betel leaf is grown on over 200 acres across Thanjavur and parts of Thiruvarur. 'Kumbakonam is known for temples and its quality betel leaves. They're integral to rituals and meals,' said Gandhi, a Thanjavur native. This is also Thanjavur's first agricultural GI tag.
According to Gandhi, the tag helps curb misuse, preserve heritage, and boost exports. A June 2024 ResearchGate paper on GI tags, Gandhi said, states that GI status prevents unauthorised use and ensures only genuine, high-quality products reach consumers.
However, Gandhi noted, 'GI isn't yet used as a marketing advantage. It's a foundation being laid. Awareness will grow with time, especially through schools and colleges.'