How to spend a weekend in Victoria, Canada
Nestled on to the southern tip of Vancouver Island, the British Columbia capital is an easy 30-minute connection from Vancouver International Airport, with one-way flights starting at C$50 ($60). I contemplated taking the ferry from Vancouver, where I spent my first night, but decided travelling solo on birthdays grants licence to splurge, so booked an almost door-to-door Harbour Air seaplane (starting at C$99 one-way) to the Empress from its sister property in downtown Vancouver, Fairmont Pacific Rim.
Recently hosting Meghan Markle and Prince Harry, the Pacific Rim is the perfect gateway to Fairmont Empress, with an art gallery, rooftop pool and cosy lobby lounge with music, sushi and exotic cocktails. It's also popular with Hollywood actors (like Tracker star Justin Hartley, who I immediately spotted) filming in Vancouver.
It's gloomy the next morning as my 14-seater seaplane skirts along the water before soaring across Vancouver Harbour, but the clouds soon part to showcase the stunning Gulf Islands, blanketed with lush forest.
Swooping into Victoria's Inner Harbour with a water landing smoother than most airplane touchdowns, I stroll up to the Empress, where whale topiary paves the way to the harbourside haven. Dubbed the 'castle on the coast', the property opened in 1908 after the Canadian Pacific Railway began building chateau-style hotels to accommodate their wealthy passengers.
Shirley Temple, John Travolta and Queen Elizabeth II visited the hotel, which was named after Queen Victoria (also the Empress of India), while Markle's been spotted at restaurant Q at the Empress.
A 6m floral chandelier glittering with 250,000 hand-woven crystals greets me in reception. The majestic feel continues as I pass grand stairwells, Juliet balconies, antique bronze mailboxes and through wide arched hallways designed to accommodate sprawling, Victorian ballgowns.
Waiting for my room, I laze the entire afternoon away in the tranquil, sun-soaked Fairmont Gold lounge, a perk of booking into the Gold Floor, described as a 'boutique hotel within a hotel'.
The Empress also offers limited-time packages like Into the Lavender Haze, which was timed with Taylor Swift's Eras tour and had my room brimming with cushions, chairs, macaroons and Nespresso capsules in varying shades of purple. The theme also reflects the hotel being the home of Empress 1908 Indigo Gin, which spawned a viral Lavender Haze cocktail, made with gin, Empress honey syrup, lemon, soda and lavender. Rumour has it Sir Winston Churchill ordered gin in an Empress teapot to conceal it during Prohibition.
I could do with a teapot of warming liquor during a whale-watching cruise with Orca Spirit Adventures the next day. My fingers go numb, but I'm soon distracted by Janet, a 50-year-old male killer whale who dramatically surfaces from the glassy Salish Sea. 'He's been going around Vancouver Island for years,' says our guide. 'He has quite a reputation!'
Not to be outdone, two humpbacks find us, spouting and fluking as they elegantly dip in and out of the water like a synchronised slow dance. Next, we cruise around Race Rocks Ecological Reserve, home to bald eagles, shearwaters and clusters of chattering male sea lions, perched around a lighthouse like rowdy concert-goers awaiting the main act.
After thawing in my sun-drenched room, I'm ready for the main act of my birthday concert at the intimate McPherson Playhouse. Situated in Old Town, the historic theatre is walkable from the Fairmont Empress and after a night of nostalgic hits, I feel safe meandering home.
I stop by intriguing corner spot Earls for a Strawberry Smokeshow margarita, then find myself drawn back to the spectacular harbour, where every hour bestows an enchanting new view. At sunset, glowing amber shades rip across the sky like wildfire, before neon blue peeks through rippled clouds at dusk. By night, it's like the palatial Parliament Buildings have been magically etched on to the black sky in neon lights.
I might have thought twice about late-night sauntering after learning Victoria is the most haunted place in Canada during a Gray Line Victoria hop-on, hop-off tour the next morning. The double-decker bus also cruises through Canada's oldest Chinatown, a lantern-lined blur of restaurants, shops and North America's narrowest commercial street – the 0.9m-wide Fan Tan Alley.
Further south is the David Foster Harbour Pathway, a 5km walkway named after the Grammy-winning Canadian musician behind hits by Michael Jackson and Celine Dion. The path snakes around to Ogden Point, where a 762m breakwater features an Instagram-worthy mural by local artists.
After admiring llamas and peacocks in Beacon Hill Park, we ride through hip, English-inspired Oak Bay Village. Our driver mentions Victoria's prized Butchart Gardens and I briefly regret not venturing 30 minutes north to the tourist spot, however it dawns on me that simply riding around Victoria is like a glorious gardens tour, with picture-perfect florals around every corner. The Fairmont Empress' grounds alone are bursting with yellow trumpet flowers, orange marigold and pink dahlias, plus a honeybee colony and herb gardens, which are foraged for eateries like Q Bar.
It's here, while devouring a Cod Crunch burger, that I'm told how the Fairmont Empress will transform into a Christmas wonderland come December with Santa's Sips cocktail nights, lavish decorations and a giant display of mistletoe. It's no wonder countless Christmas movies have been filmed in the neighbourhood.
My Empress birthday was unforgettable, but as my seaplane departs back to Vancouver, I'm already set on returning for a movie-like Empress Christmas.
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Central Otago When days are short, it's time to embrace winter in Central Otago. Layer up with New Zealand's fine wool merino garments, settle in by a warm, glowing fire with a glass of Central Otago pinot noir, nourishing food and great friends. Enjoy accommodation and hospitality venues found in restored heritage properties, embracing the warmth and style of yesteryear with all the comforts of today's living. For truly winter activities, head to Naseby and Maniototo Adventure Park, where you can try your hand at curling, outdoor ice skating and ice luging. Be sure to fit in a night sky experience with an astrophysicist when staying at Inverlair Lodge near Oturehua. you can also hit the trails with one of Central Otago's four Great Ride cycle routes. Choose a shorter ride and time it during the warmer daylight hours, rewarding yourself with a mulled wine afterwards. Coromandel If you're after a long weekend of indulgence, adventure and stunning scenery, the Hauraki-Coromandel area has you covered. Start your getaway with a mix of history and natural beauty in Karangahake Gorge, taking in its rugged trails, stunning swing bridges and old mining relics. You can also grab a bike and cycle one of the most popular parts of the Hauraki Rail Trail (a Great Ride of NZ), which follows the Ohinemuri River through Karangahake Gorge and chase it up with a well-earned stay at RURU PurePod, a luxury glass pod nestled in nature. Kids and grown-ups alike will love a visit to Coromandel Chocolates in Whangamatā, which recently won big at the global Academy of Chocolate Awards, for a tasting or behind-the-scenes tour. Then, continue the indulgence with a tasting tour of your favourite tipple. Try local gins at Coromandel Brewing Co in Thames or Kaimai Distillery in Waihī, grab a small-batch brew at Kuaotunu's Blue Fridge Brewery or Salt District Brewing in Whangamatā, while wine lovers can stop in at Cooks Beach's Mercury Bay Estate. Dunedin Celebrate King's Birthday weekend in Dunedin by treating yourself like royalty. Immerse in the opulence of Larnach Castle, dine in the ballroom and adventure up the turret for stunning views of the Otago Harbour and down the peninsula. Olveston Historic Home is also an impressive window into the lives of the wealthy families of early Dunedin that you can spend hours exploring. On June 1 and 2, cross the ornate mosaic floor of the imposing Dunedin Railway Station and catch the Taieri Gorge train over bridges and through the marvellous gorge out to Pukerangi, or treat yourself to a day in Oamaru on May 31 by taking the extended Victorian train to the quaint town for the Steampunk Festival. Alternatively, take the family on another monarch, the Monarch Wildlife Cruise, to spot the kings of the sky, the Northern Royal Albatross, as they glide around Taiaroa Head. Hurunui Celebrate the long weekend with a rejuvenating escape to Hurunui, North Canterbury, where relaxation, adventure, and indulgence await. Start with a soothing soak at Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa, featuring 22 geothermally heated pools ranging from 32C to 42C. Families can enjoy the activity pool, lazy river and thrilling waterslides, while couples might prefer the tranquil adult-only pools or a pampering session at The Spa. For wine enthusiasts, embark on an easy cycling journey along the Waipara Wine Trail. Pedal through picturesque vineyards and stop at renowned wineries like Black Estate and Greystone to savour exquisite local vintages and gourmet fare. Meanwhile, thrill-seekers can experience the excitement of jetboating on the Waiau River with Hanmer Springs Attractions. This exhilarating ride, suitable for ages 3 and up, offers high-speed spins and stunning canyon views, making it a memorable adventure for families and groups alike. Kaikōura Celebrate King's Birthday weekend in Kaikōura with a blend of awe and adventure. Start your evening with Moana Skies, a stargazing experience like no other. Nestled beneath some of New Zealand's clearest skies, Moana Skies invites you to marvel at constellations, planets, and the glow of the Milky Way. It's a magical journey through the stars that brings you closer to the natural beauty and wonder of the universe. By day, get your adrenaline pumping with EcoZip Adventures. Soar through native forest canopies on dual ziplines with spectacular views over Kaikōura's dramatic coastline. After working up an appetite, head to Hapuku Kitchen for one of their farm-to-table cooking classes, where you prepare a seasonal feast inspired by the wild Kaikōura landscape, from ingredients you've harvested and foraged from the land. MacKenzie Known for its unforgettable scenery and array of bucket-list experiences, the MacKenzie transforms into a winter playground over the cooler months. Visitors will be treated to snow-dusted landscapes surrounding the four townships (Lake Tekapo, Aoraki/Mt Cook, Twizel and Fairlie) and an assortment of relaxational and recreational activities. Families will love Tekapo Springs. Known for its stunning lakefront hot pools, the attraction also boasts an outdoor ice skating rink, snow tube park, day spa and stargazing in the evening, making it a whole day of fun for everyone. The MacKenzie is famous for its night skies and is home to New Zealand's first and largest dark sky reserve (which sits over Twizel, Tekapo and Aoraki/Mt Cook) and more than 10 world-class stargazing experiences. The winter months are the best time of year for stargazing, with long, crisp nights and the impressive galactic core right above. A trip to visit Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park and the Tasman Glacier (New Zealand's largest) is also a must. Manawatū Pile into the car for a cruisy drive through northern Manawatū. Choose one of The Country Road scenic touring routes – all with knockout views along the way – and spend the day uncovering cosy country pubs, native bush reserves and trails, glowworm caves and more. For a romantic twist, end your day at a unique off-the-grid stay like Falcon's View or Ridge Top Glamping. On Saturday night, you can get into some drama (the good kind), with a performance of Cringeworthy, a toe-tapping tribute to the smash hits of the 60s-80s at Centrepoint Theatre. With retro costumes, witty banter and energetic dance numbers on the playlist, prepare for pure entertainment. On Sunday morning, head to Hokowhitu village for the popular farmers' market every second Sunday, where you'll find live music, clever crafts and a wide range of tasty artisan delicacies from 9am-1pm. Marlborough Discover the hidden treasures of Marlborough with three unforgettable experiences. Begin your adventure aboard the Pelorus Mail Boat for D'Urville Day Out: a scenic cruise to remote D'Urville Island in Pelorus Sound/Te Hoiere, which includes a delicious two-course lunch, and time to explore the island's native forests, walk to a waterfall, or paddleboard along the coast. Meanwhile, aviation enthusiasts and families will love the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre, home to Sir Peter Jackson's World War I aircraft collection in the Knights of the Sky exhibit, and World War II's Dangerous Skies featuring iconic planes like the Spitfire. With cinematic displays and immersive storytelling, it's open daily from 9am–5pm. Finally, sip and savour your way through Marlborough with the Original Marlborough Wine Tours. Follow the Winter Fireplace trail, visiting award-winning cellar doors and tasting some of New Zealand's finest wines. Whether you prefer group outings or private tours, their expert guides ensure a memorable journey through this stunning region. Nelson In Nelson this coming long weekend? Then pay a visit to Golden Bay, Mohua. Just two hours' drive from Nelson City, it's a destination where slowing down comes easily. Start your first day near Collingwood with a guided trip out on Farewell Spit Eco Tours, a family-friendly adventure where windswept dunes and migrating birdlife meet panoramic seascapes. Afterwards, spend the afternoon cozied up at The Mussel Inn, a legendary rustic brewpub that serves up local brews, hearty food and fireside music. On day two, head to Tākaka and take a short loop walk through mānuka and kānuka forest to Te Waikoropupū Springs, which has some of the clearest freshwater in the world and is a place of deep cultural importance. After lunch, make your way to Tata Beach for a gentle paddle or SUP session with Golden Bay Kayaks, exploring the serene edge of Abel Tasman National Park and all its curious wildlife, coastal sights and local stories. Northland During a weekend in Northland, you'll want to hit the markets. The Waipu Street Market takes place over three long weekends, including King's Birthday, and you'll also find plenty of other markets around, from the Parua Bay Craft Market to the famous Kerikeri Old Packhouse Markets. For some history and culture, consider a trip to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, which has two contemporary and interactive museums as well as guided tours and cultural performances, Meanwhile, the Kauri Museum is Northland's largest undercover attraction, perfect for escaping winter weather while learning about the past, present and future of the kauri trees. Finally, make the most of the early winter temperatures to enjoy Northland's coastal playgrounds. Take the ferry to Ōtehei Bay and hike around Urupukapuka Island, or tackle the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail. Queenstown There's much to do in Queenstown over a long weekend. Take your pick: explore on foot, or hire a bike from Better By Bike or Around the Basin, enjoy the spectacular views over the Shotover River on the new Shotover Gorge Trail or take a step back in time as you travel through the historic Hugo Tunnel and experience the elevated scenery from the new Kimi-ākau suspension bridge. If you fancy spinning more than just two wheels, try the off-road experience or jetboat sprints at Oxbow, with the nearby Gibbston wineries on hand for some apres adventures, or try some cosy Kiwi cuisine at the Gibbston Tavern. Travelling with little ones? Join the animals at Kiwi Park, checking out the new Kea Aviary, or arrive late for some illuminated adventures after dark with Luma Enchanted, an annual arts event hosted in Queenstown over the long weekend. Rotorua As late autumn rolls into winter, Rotorua truly comes into its own. It's officially spa season – the perfect time to treat yourself with the Restorative Journey at Wai Ariki Hot Springs and Spa. As Aotearoa's spa and wellness capital, Rotorua offers a range of luxurious options like this, where relaxation is guaranteed. Venture through geothermal wonderlands, where geysers leap into the mist, bubbling mud pools dance, and vibrant sinter terraces paint the landscape at Te Puia. The cool air amplifies the drama of nature's artistry. While you're there, you'll also experience the warmth of your guide's manaakitanga and a Māori cultural experience, where stories, song, and tradition create a powerful sense of belonging. Finish with an incredible hāngī buffet dinner onsite at Pātaka Kai. In Rotorua, the cooler months are not for hibernating – they are for basking in the unique beauty and heartfelt hospitality that only this place can offer. a Timaru If you're looking for somewhere different to explore for the upcoming long weekend, Timaru District should be on your list. The district offers a vibrant mix of adventure, relaxation, and family fun. Start with a refreshing gin tasting at Humdinger Gin, where locally sourced botanicals meet small-town charm. Hire and bike (push or e-bike), and hop on the Timaru Circuit Bike Trail to explore scenic coastlines, including venturing out to the Jack's Point Lighthouse. Kids (and grown-ups!) will love the imaginative fun at CPlay, the award-winning playground celebrating Timaru's history. For a dose of rural charm, head to The Shearers Quarters for a hands-on farmyard experience, mini golf, and a cosy country-style lunch. Wrap up your weekend with a stroll on the Big Tree trail at Peel Forest – an easy stroll among towering natives that feels like stepping into another world. Whether you're adventuring, unwinding, or entertaining the kids, Timaru District has something for everyone. Waikato Celebrate King's Birthday weekend with a well-deserved getaway in Hamilton City, enjoying plush comforts at Novotel Hamilton Tainui and strolls along the Waikato River. After grabbing a delicious treat from artisanal bakery Rüdi's and a coffee from Kopi, take the kids to Victoria on the River, a lush amphitheatre-style park on Victoria St, before leisurely walking along the mighty Waikato River. Tea lovers needn't travel to Darjeeling to learn about tea; simply visit Zealong Tea Estate for a guided tour, tea tasting and high tea experience while learning the art of tea production. As for a little arts and shopping, don't pass by Discover Made Markets, a seven-day indoor market that stars local produce, handmade goods and a vibrant quarter of boutique retail – a hidden gem for finding the perfect souvenir. With a specialty liquor store, tasting room and a variety of eateries included, it's a perfect spot to unwind no matter the weather. Wairarapa Craving the great outdoors? Then Wairarapa is the long weekend spot for you. Get out of the big smoke and enjoy the wonder of Wairarapa's International Dark Sky Reserve just 100km from Wellington, with a tour from Star Safari. Kitted out with the best equipment, a personal astrobiologist and an astrophysicist will teach you about the sky and stars during an unforgettable 90-minute experience. Or, for something a little sweeter, learn how mānuka honey is made with a beekeeping experience at Greytown Honey. A hive-to-jar experience, you'll get up close and personal with the bees, visit a honey factory and try award-winning honey varieties. Wānaka Explore Wānaka's unique islands for King's Birthday weekend, including Mou Waho (the island on a lake on an island on a lake on an island), Stevensons Island or Ruby Island. Cruise and nature walk options are available with Lake Wānaka Cruises or Eco Wānaka. For a date with a difference, a trip to the movies in Wānaka is a nostalgic affair. With a setting created to capture bygone eras, Cinema Paradiso offers delicious intermission treats and unique seating options including couches, cars and laid-back leather recliners. Alternatively, turn up the heat and spend a relaxing afternoon soaking lakeside at The Secret Sauna or The Sauna Wānaka or shop till you drop at the huge number of boutique fashion stores, art galleries and everything in between. Wellington For a long weekend packed with culture, creativity and a touch of magic, head to Aotearoa's capital city. Families and film lovers should kick things off with a trip to Disney: The Magic of Animation, at Tākina. Running till July 13, the interactive exhibition brings a century of animation to life with more than 600 original artworks from Disney's iconic films, from Fantasia and Sleeping Beauty to Frozen and Moana 2. For another hit of culture, Kia Mau Festival returns over King's Birthday weekend, starring powerful performances by indigenous artists from Aotearoa and beyond. From dance and music to visual art and contemporary theatre, the line-up provides a soulful way to connect with stories that matter, starring standout shows like He Ingoa and Ka Tito Au. In between shows, check out the brand new Cuba Street Tavern. Part cafe, part courtyard oasis, it's the perfect spot to graze on hibachi bites, enjoy top-notch brunch or slip on local brews. West Coast From sunrise to sunset, winter days on the West Coast are laden with the golden promise of so much to do. Westport is the start of the West Coast's newest adventure, the family-friendly Kawatiri Coastal Trail. Flanked by the wild Tasman Sea and the Paparoa Range, this gentle grade 2 cycle and walking trail offers 40km of scenic riding between Westport and Charleston, with multiple access points. Meanwhile, nearby in Punakaiki, the Paparoa Experience brings the region's stories to life through an immersive, multi-sensory exhibition in the striking new visitor centre – a great stop for all ages. Then, when temperatures drop, it's hard to beat a leisurely hot soak. Bliss out in the mineral pools at Maruia Hot Springs, an intimate eco-resort with geothermal pools, wellness classes and forest views. Drop in for a soak or linger longer with an overnight stay for the full recharge. Whanganui Curious explorers will find inspiration in Whanganui, New Zealand's Unesco City of Design, and experience a hub of creativity. Part of Aotearoa's most creative road trip, the Coastal Arts Trail, Whanganui offers over 30 galleries to discover. A highlight is the Te Whare o Rehua Sarjeant Gallery and cafe. The building itself brings together two architectural styles, symbolically connected by a waka, linking the original heritage building to a vision of a contemporary Māori space. For outdoor enthusiasts, the Paddle Steamer Waimarie offers a unique Boat Bike experience – cruise up the Whanganui River to the village of Upokongaro, then cycle the 10km Mountains to Sea trail back to the city, enjoying tranquil views along the way. Nature lovers can explore Tarapuruhi Bushy Park, an ancient native forest sanctuary. Wander its scenic bush trails, then relax with high tea in the elegant heritage homestead – the perfect way to end a day in Whanganui's natural beauty and cultural charm.
