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I Stayed in Julia Child's Cottage in the South of France—What It's Like to Stay and Cook There

I Stayed in Julia Child's Cottage in the South of France—What It's Like to Stay and Cook There

Wild dill, it turned out, looked like a tiny bristle, like a hairbrush for a mouse. Squatting in the grass, I plucked a green sprig with my thumb and forefinger. I chewed one end—that was bright, citrusy dill, alright. On my tray it went among its fellow herbs. I didn't usually sample random plants found underfoot, and up until this breezy May afternoon, I didn't know how dill looked in its natural habitat. But edible herbs grew all over this particular garden. On my way back to the cottage, foraging tray full, I also waded past rosemary, basil, oregano, mint, marjoram, thyme, and chives swaying their purple-flowered heads.
The cottage was Julia Child's former home in Plascassier, a village in Provence, France, where she lived on and off from 1965 to 1992. It's named La Pitchoune ("the little one"), though she and her husband, Paul, affectionately called it La Peetch. I was staying there as a student at the Courageous Cooking School, a weeklong culinary course that's taken up residence. The kitchen and cooking school.
It felt like stepping into a scrapbook of Julia's life: We cooked in her kitchen, where she developed recipes for "Mastering the Art of French Cooking: Volume 2." We unhooked pots and pans from her original pegboard wall. Her pine-green Dutch oven, its enamel worn from perhaps decades of coq au vin, sat heavy in the cabinet. So did her old set of soufflé pans with little heart-shaped handles. The walls were papered with evidence of a well-lived life: a packing list ("writing eqpt. & reading, bottle opener"); black-and-white photos of long, liquid lunches with friends; and typeset directions to the house addressed to the chef James Beard, who stayed there.
This was where Julia and Paul Child cooked, drank, and hosted hungry friends. Now, it's where six of us stood, fresh from ransacking the garden and clutching our knives like nervous acolytes, about to be initiated into the Courageous Cooking School's particular brand of culinary heresy: that recipes were suggestions rather than scripture, and that cooking should be an adventure. Details from inside the kitchen and cooking school.
Karen Yuan/Travel + Leisure
The course operated on simplicity: no printed recipes, just a handful of students and a couple of instructors guiding us through the ingredients that made a dish work—salt, fat, acid, and aromatics. Our teachers were Kendall Lane, a sunny, Florida-born chef who previously worked in Michelin-starred kitchens, and Santana Caress Benitez, a Chopped champion with mise en place tattooed on her shoulder. The course's steward was Makenna Held, an American chef who'd bought the cottage in 2016 site unseen, inspired by French cooking much like her predecessor.
They celebrated permission rather than precision: to taste as we went, to trust our senses. After all, Julia herself once famously dropped a potato pancake on the kitchen counter before scooping it back into a pan. ("You're alone in the kitchen—who's going to see?" She said in The French Chef episode.) Perfection was beside the point. The real lesson was learning to cook like someone who knew that dinner, like life, would go on even if the soufflé fell.
I sorely needed that lesson. Though I was a big fan of eating , the irony was that I had a lot of anxiety around cooking, thanks to perfectionism and a respectful fear of sharp, pointy things. I ham-fisted recipes as if they were legal documents. The Courageous Cooking School felt like an intervention. Could a week at La Peetch help me loosen up and enjoy putting together a dish? My fellow students were regular folks from Vancouver, Chicago, and New Jersey; they worked in accounting, marketing, and health care. We were all drawn here by La Peetch's mystique and our love for a good home-cooked meal. Julia might have been gone, but she always did love a brave cook. As I tied on my orange apron, I half-expected to hear that distinctive warble from the next room. But the only sound was the snick of my knife against wood, beginning the day's first chop.
We'd driven to nearby Cannes earlier in the day, where we'd been dropped at the entrance of the Marché Forville, given an allowance, and set loose to buy any produce—any!—that we felt like. The market assaulted the senses: Stalls bore ripe strawberries that threatened to dissolve into syrup at a touch; their perfume cut through the briny tang of just-landed sea bass; a fromager presented a wheel of Banon cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves. Emboldened, I splurged on donut peaches, melons, and stalks of white and purple asparagus that could double as medieval weapons. I'd never cooked with any of them before, but that felt like the reason to try them. My classmates came back with just-as-tentative expressions and baskets full of red currants, squash blossoms, and heads of frisée.
Now, back in Julia's kitchen, I was clumsily cutting that giant frisée into chunks. The mission: Mix fruits and veggies from the morning's haul and make a no-rules raw salad—and have fun. Play with sources of fat and acid. Pile on any herbs and spices that pique your interest. 'So much good stuff can be put in there,' Lane said. So my classmates and I massaged black lime and wild mesquite into the bitter frisée. We paired textures like mad scientists, tossing in crunchy fennel, leek, and red onion, which were sharpened by apple cider vinegar and sweet paprika, which melted into silky strawberries, red currants, and donut peaches, which, in turn, lit up through silk chili, pink peppercorn, hazelnut bits, and a reckless shower of lemon zest.
It was the wildest bowl of salad I'd ever made. Miraculously, it tasted sweet, tart, salty, and spiced all at once. We sampled as we went, adjusting acid, fat, and salt until the balance felt right. Each ingredient had a role. No dressing necessary—the layers were noisy with flavor. On our first day, Benitez had instructed us to bury our noses in the pantry's jars of single-origin spices and get curious about them. This included Urfa pepper with its raisin-like depth, verjus cinnamon, and licorice-like grains of paradise. I wasn't familiar with any of them and wouldn't easily find them back at home, and so recognized this for what it was: a rare chance to travel around the world through the flavors and try something new.
So my classmates and I poured hearty amounts into our frisée. It was an exercise in cooking with abandon. 'There's always something fun or new to take away from an attempt, even if you don't meet your initial goal,' Lane told us. Through the rest of the week, I often found myself reaching for the zappy, smoky black lime we'd macerated the frisée in. I didn't know if I'd get access to the ingredient back home, but I resolved to bring more of those moments back into my cooking routine: adding something I usually never touched (maybe from the back of the fridge), biting down for a taste in progress, and raising my brows in shocked delight.
We cooked in that sunny kitchen through the week, scoring duck breast, caramelizing onions, filleting fish, prepping artichokes, and whipping up mousse. Along the way, we tried to decode what made food sing, flipping ingredients and expectations. The course ranged across starters, entrées, and desserts, demystifying a slew of classic French dishes. When Lane showed us how to make soufflés, her first lesson was that their puffy domes always fall. It was just gravity. 'Release perfection from the start,' she encouraged. Later, she produced two towering soufflés out of the oven, perfectly quivering in Julia's heart-handled pans. Then they slumped, just as promised. We devoured them anyway. Lulu the house cat.
Karen Yuan/Travel + Leisure
In the evenings, we ate the fruits of our labor and lazed around the cottage. La Pitchoune is tucked off a sloping road, and each dusk did its best impression of a Provençal postcard. We'd list about the garden, where an enormous, centuries-old olive tree anchored beds of herbs, the rosemary planted by Julia's own hands. We'd visit the chicken coop, where Blanche, the white hen, deposited our daily eggs. Or check out the old water cistern, half-hidden in the golden light, where Julia and her cookbook co-author, Simone Beck, had dunked themselves, laughing, to escape the summer heat. We'd lie by the actual pool (a modern fixture). If we were lucky, Lulu, the house cat, sleek as a '60s starlet, would slip out to sit with us. We'd sip wine on the front patio under wisteria that cast lacy shadows over us.
At dinner at the end of the week, Megan, a fellow student from Chicago, confessed she'd arrived burnt out on cooking. 'This week reminded me that I love it,' she said, scooping up the remains of a chocolate mousse we'd topped with berries and chilis.
We had left the kitchen for the last time, but the lights were still on. Somewhere, Julia was probably tutting at the mousse we'd just murdered. But she'd also taught people to cook without apology. I thought of that wild frisée salad with its layers of sultry mesquite, puckery vinegar, and peppercorns, garnished with dill I'd picked myself. It had been weird, generous, and alive. There were no tidy endings here, no certificates of mastery—just the understanding that cooking was exploring, even and especially if it took you where you didn't mean to go. Some lessons, I guess, were meant to be tasted.
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You can use the stems to make infused cilantro butter. Then, heat the butter in a non-stick pan and fry your eggs in the gourmet, cilantro-infused butter for a decadent restaurant-quality fried egg. A cilantro-fried egg is perfect for topping a burger or an Asian-inspired dish. Take An Unexpected Turn With Dill Pickle fried eggs, anyone? This TikTok trend may seem curious to some, but it is actually a riff on a culinary classic — fried eggs topped with dill. Using pickle brine is an easy shortcut to achieve these delicious, trendy fried eggs with juice that would otherwise be poured down the drain. Start by cooking your eggs normally in a pan then adding the brine at the very end and letting the juice heat through. Make sure the eggs are covered completely in the brine for maximum flavor and then cover them to complete cooking. At first glance, the combination of pickle juice and fried eggs doesn't seem overly appetizing, but it is a common flavor combination in dishes such as egg salad and deviled eggs. The salty brine from the pickles adds an unexpected zing. Experiment with different flavors of pickles such as hot pickles, sour pickles, or even bread and butter pickles for different flavored fried eggs. Pickle juice is also thought to replenish electrolytes which makes this a great add-on for a nourishing breakfast. Add a pickle-flavored egg to a juicy burger or just enjoy it on its own. Give Parsley A Go Parsley often gets a bad rap in the culinary industry as a stuffy outdated herb. It's frequently underutilized as just a garnish to add a pop of color to monochromatic dishes, but it can be used for much more. It's also widely available and fairly cheap, which makes grabbing a bunch even easier. 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Unsurprisingly, a large range of foods respond to its smoky, warming notes, though its usage from cooks defaults the most to seafood dishes. Those seeking to expand beyond crab boils will find its hearty depth brings a lot to the table for fried eggs. Who would have thought a spice agent associated with the classic fish fry could be so versatile in wake-up fare? We like Old Bay for its savory pop and the convenience of so many tasty spices packed into one jar. Preparation is all but zero when it simply takes scrounging your cupboard space for the all-in-one blend before dousing your pan-fried eggs on the stove. You can add as much or as little as you want, in return for granting your protein a spicy kick. Don't fret over when to apply the seasoning -- as long as the eggs are thoroughly heated, a dash at the beginning or end will do just fine. Try Salsa For A Zesty Spin Salsa isn't just for tortilla chips — not when there's yolks ready to hit your skillet. Practically any variety and spice level is a game-changer for perking up a fried egg breakfast no matter how old-school. Nutritionally-speaking, it tends to be light in calories, while never sacrificing on a punchy kick of flavor to really make eggs crave-worthy. Green or red, habanero or mild pico de gallo, the spice and heat combine to imbue a zesty flair to your morning. For one idea of how to show off your eggs, consider breakfast nachos to feed a crowd. Jarred salsas are popular, of course, but feel free to opt for fresh homemade salsa to impart a zesty twist on your eggs. It's simple: After completing the cooking to personal preference, spoon the desired amount on the side or coating the fried eggs. This is perfect for that leftover bit still in the fridge waiting to be used up. Or for a different and no-less tasty tack, you could allow the eggs to simmer in the salsa, basting occasionally. This mirrors a Middle Eastern shakshuka, giving the eggs a richer consistency on account of absorbing the hot, bubbly sauce. Go Gourmet With Truffles Truffle is the bougie addition you should start adding to your fried eggs. It's hyper-trendy, and not exactly frugal, yet there's no doubting your brunch will get a serious boost with these rich, funky mushrooms. Whether you opt for black or white fungi, you don't need to add a lot of it to elevate your morning grub to a five-star affair. Don't forget to compliment the strong aromas with additional flourishes -- truffle-adorned fried eggs would pair deliciously with herbs like parsley or chives, and a splash of your favorite hot sauce. Truffle tends to show at the end for a final, show-stopping effect. You can lightly garnish your plate with truffle shavings upon frying your eggs to the desired consistency. Obviously, getting your hands on real truffle mushrooms might not come as easily as other delicious seasonings. Your next best bet is truffle oil. High temperatures, some argue, can strip the oil of its potency, so you might consider treating your eggs to a light drizzle once they've heated to completion. And whatever you do, consider opting for brown butter as your cooking fat -- the combo is simply divine. Sizzle Your Eggs In Garlic A one-and-done ingredient like garlic is transformative, especially when it comes to versatile foods like the fried egg. Peel off the papery skin and chop the cloves, opting for a fine mince or larger slivers depending on your preference. Then in a pan, sauté your garlic in the hot oil to let the aromatics permeate. When you crack the eggs in to fry, they'll soak in the glorious infusion, developing that powerful burst of umami. Just make sure the burner isn't set too high so you don't scorch your garlic, a mistake that could make your dish taste off. Garlic is the backbone to just about any appetizing dish we can imagine. Never mind these little bulbs contain a good number of vitamins and antioxidants, so they're stupendously ideal for key health benefits as well as imparting foods with strong flavor. For early birds, serve the garlicky eggs with a slice of toast and bacon, or incorporate it into a stir-fry with vegetables for dinner. Even when rushing to fit a nourishing meal into your day, it's only an extra step towards fried eggs at their peak. Sprinkle On Everything Bagel Seasoning Assuming you're frying eggs for a protein-packed avocado toast, you're likely anticipating a nice garnish to tie it together. Try Everything Bagel seasoning. This speckled seedy blend sounds odd, but it's exactly the ticket to jazzing up your morning breakfast. It's composed of the crunchy tidbits affixed to a real Everything Bagel -- poppy and sesame seeds, garlic, and kosher salt -- and unlocks a strong blast of flavor when incorporated into plainer dishes. Nothing is more effortless than sizzling your egg and, once cooked, dusting on the salty-crispy goodness to make it even more magical. Generously sprinkling Everything Bagel seasoning onto your fried eggs is so incredibly easy now that it isn't fringe; tons of grocery stores, most notably Trader Joe's, jar and sell the breakfast topper. Those who maintain a well-stocked spice rack will find it's also easy to recreate at home from scratch. If you really want to step out of your comfort zone, try toasting the seasoning in oil. When you plop the egg in, it'll form a crackly crust on the bottom that's truly delectable slapped onto sourdough (or a bagel). Read the original article on Chowhound. Solve the daily Crossword

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Man dies trying to cross the English Channel from France

PARIS (AP) — One person has died after attempting to cross the English Channel from a beach in northern France, local authorities said on Saturday, bringing the death toll this year in the perilous waterway to at least 18. The Pas-de-Calais department's prefecture told The Associated Press that a man was found in cardiac arrest on board a boat which had attempted to reach Britain and then turned back toward French shores. The man was found near Équihen beach, close to the town of Boulogne-sur-mer. He was pronounced dead despite the efforts of firefighters to revive him. An investigation into the cause of his death has been opened. French media, quoting numbers from France's Interior ministry, said 18 people have died trying to reach Britain by sea since the start of the year. ___ Follow AP's global migration coverage at Solve the daily Crossword

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